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The most powerful, most long lasting, best value single dose path weed-killer.

Gallup is about the best option. Buy 5l of the proper strength version online. You’ll still have to reapply every now and again I’m afraid.
 
All depends on how much path. We have a brick path and all we need to do to keep the weeds down is pour residual boiling water over them when we've used the kettle. Cheap, ecologically sound and effective.
 
Many years ago, I worked at a chemical plant that made paraquat. It was the main ingredient in most weed killers/herbicides then, maybe still is, I don't know. Like most things, nasty stuff in so many ways.
 
richardkendell said:
All depends on how much path. We have a brick path and all we need to do to keep the weeds down is pour residual boiling water over them when we've used the kettle. Cheap, ecologically sound and effective.
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Isn’t it just like a hoe or a weed burner thingy? I mean, it’ll destroy the top growth, which will kill a seedling, but once it’s got a couple of true leaves it’ll just regrow from the root system.
 
Ponty said:
Gallup is about the best option. Buy 5l of the proper strength version online. You’ll still have to reapply every now and again I’m afraid.
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Yes, IF pathclear does not have an ingredient which adheres fo the path and prevents germination. They do say “prevents new weeds” - glyphosate and diflufenican won’t do that alone so there should be something about the way they’ve prepared these active ingredients.

Worth checking up on though.
 
mandryka said:
Isn’t it just like a hoe or a flame thingy? I mean, it’ll destroy the top growth, which will kill a seedling, but once it’s got a couple of true leaves it’ll just regrow from the root system.
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If you pour enough water over the weed to seriously wilt the leaves it seems to percolate down and kill the roots quite nicely. It keeps dandelions down and they seem to have long roots. Seedlings are wiped out with no problem
 
Here’s the pathclear info leaflet

http://www.hggs.org.uk/infoleaflets/PathclearWeedkiller.pdf

Pathclear® Weedkiller LC kills established weeds and grasses down to the root. Pathclear® Weedkiller LC prevents new weeds from growing for up to 3 months by creating an invisible barrier in the top soil layer.
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That’s what you need, an “invisible barrier.” I don’t think bog standard roundup will do that. And it’s true that if I do have a problem with regrowth in the same year, it’s about 3 months after the first application.
 
If its for a path or driveway you can use salt. Get the cheap commercial salt and either sprinkle it on the surface and let the rain do the work or make a concentrated solution and use a watering can. Get the cheap salt for paths etc.

Advantages:-
  • It's super cheap and readily available.
  • It's natural and is unlikely to do any harm.
  • Works quickly and suppresses regrowth.
  • Overuse won't harm the environment.
  • Can be used near edible crops.
Disadvantages:-
  • It's unlikely to work on large weeds.
  • It's non selective and will kill all plants.
  • Deep rooted perennials are likely to regrow.
  • You need an awful lot for large areas.
  • It can harm your soil preventing future growths.
  • It can't be used on lawns.
I still have some NaClO3 in my shed for when/if its needed.

Cheers,

DV
 
TimF said:
Many years ago, I worked at a chemical plant that made paraquat. It was the main ingredient in most weed killers/herbicides then, maybe still is, I don't know. Like most things, nasty stuff in so many ways.
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Dreadful stuff, marketed as Gramoxone. It's highly toxic in small quantities, and apparently enjoys some popularity as a means of suicide. Its use has been illegal for some years here.
 
eternumviti said:
Dreadful stuff, marketed as Gramoxone. It's highly toxic in small quantities, and apparently enjoys some popularity as a means of suicide. Its use has been illegal for some years here.
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I killed myself many times over that stuff!o_O Yes, some nasty stuff for sure.
 
mandryka said:
Yes I saw that but I thought there may be something in the way it’s prepared which makes it stick and release slowly. Probably a stupid thought!
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Sadly - not easy to do, and the more so for use on a path.

dweezil said:
Glyphosate might be benign in the environment but it's a harsh chemical.
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Sounds like it does pretty much what vinegar or even very dilute bleach would do.
 
mandryka said:
Any thoughts about this annual conundrum?

Every year I buy Pathclear in those fiddly little tubes, it seems really expensive for what it is.

Someone said to me that it has something in it which prevents germination, and that the poison sticks on the path -- I don't know if it's true.

Anyway it's soon going to be that time of year again, and I'm wondering if I can do better.
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What is this conundrum?

The only thing that kills the roots of the weed and stops it re growing is Glyphosate.
Weed burners leave the roots and other chemicals ditto. Glyphosate is still available at 'full strength'; neat if you know where to get it, and it's the active ingredient in many 'garden center' weedkillers like 'roundup'.
It works and with care, used on a sunny spring day, it will do what you need. I'm as green as green can be but still use it for giant hogweed. All other pests, like nettles, dock, bramble, thistles etc I pull up and burn.

Unless you own 100 acres, get the trowel out and dig the roots of the plants up and burn the lot in spring. It works. Or, better still. lose the paths, sow meadow grass there and keep it as a wild flower pathway.

Now that is safe, useful and green! :)
 
The conundrum is nothing to do with glyphosate as a weed killer, it’s very effective. The conundrum is about whether there’s a formulation which inhibits germination. Pathclear say they do this for three months after the first application, which is more or less born out by my experience. But it’s expensive. Maybe there’s no way to get that anti-germination feature without paying - but that’s the conundrum.
 
You need a Residual - Pre Emergence chemical treatment that basically puts a barrier that young seedlings/plants hit and get wasted by, most of the really effective stuff is banned or Pro use only needing a Cert. Former life I used to operate chemical sprayers in a forestry context back in the 80’s.

Sodium Chlorate was popular to clear walking paths but was banned. Gramox was used as a hit to wither the weeds quickly, but didn’t go down to the roots. Glyphosate came in pretty much across the board as a total weed kill, supposed to be the safe new solution.

We often used a cocktail of chemicals via backpack/quad bike/tractor mounted delivery systems. Basic maths to work out the dosage - speed + width of swathe + quantity through nozzles, no GPS - wooden pegs to aim at.
 
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