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Thinking of buying a Project x1 turntable

Anyone here thinks project make poor quality turntables, let me drop my Xtension 10 on their foot and sees which breaks first.

Seriously though Pro ject build turntables for all pockets. I wouldn’t expect to get the quality of my Xtension 10 for the price of a Debut. If I did I would be buying the Debut.

If the higher end Pro ject were built by someone else,I’m sure there sell for a lot more.
 
If your slagging off a companies products & potentially damaging there reputation then you have a moral duty to show people your evidence.

Moral duty? I'm not sure I agree with you, I think sharing an opinion can be enough, but I can do as you ask.

The best way to understand ProJect construction philosophy is that they look for the cheapest way to make each part. You could say 'of course, don't all manufacturers' but if you make things too cheaply you can sacrifice reliability and robustness. When you know the approach you can look at ProJect turntables and see it all over the place but to fulfill my moral duty I'll give you a few examples from my experience.

What is the cheapest way you could make a platter/spindle assembly? You take a flat disk of cheap material and you shove a spindle through the middle of it. That's what ProJect often did. An MDF disk with a steel rod pushed through it forming the bearing spindle. Two pieces of cheap material.

Yeah ok but it works perfectly well you say. It does, but it's compromised. MDF is not the best material for a platter acoustically or structurally. It can absorb moisture and it's quite soft. Anyone who's owned MDF furniture knows how poorly it holds screws but ProJect use tons of it in less than ideal configurations.

One deck I had sported a very wobbly/buckled platter. Someone had obviously accidentally lent on the platter and the soft MDF had deformed at the spindle. Another deck had a much thicker MDF platter but the spindle was so thin it bent!

Rega use a separate sub-platter on all of their decks which avoid this potential problem. If you lean on the platter it will simply flip up away from the sub-platter until it hits the plinth. It also means the motor noise is not connected directly to the bit the record is sitting on but we'll leave it at that, better move on.

Remember we're talking about building things in the cheapest way possible? I'll point out a few features on the tonearms I fixed.

What is the cheapest way you could make a tonearm tube and headshell assembly? You do what ProJect did, you flatten an aluminium tube at one end and put two holes in it. Again, it works. So where is the compromise? Well you need a fingerlift but it would cost more to built it into the head-shell so make it a separate piece held on my the cartridge bolts. And how do you attach the other end of the tube to the bearing boss? A single tiny grub screw. So it's quite easy for the tube to pull out, ripping the wires, or to rotate a bit throwing the azimuth down the toilet. But hey, it's cheap!

Last one. I had a deck where the platter bearing had fallen out of the bottom of the deck. On investigation the bearing flange was attached to the underside of the (MDF) plinth with three small wood screws. Rega bearings go in from the top so any downward force just pushes the flange against the plinth. The ProJect bearing was solely supported by the three screws so the platter had been lent on and burst the screws out of the MDF.

I scratched my head wondering why they'd done it that way, then I realized. Everything else screwed onto the underside of the plinth. The motor, the switch, the arm screws etc. Nothing else screwed on from the top. Screwing the bearing on from the underside as well meant that on the production line there was no need to turn the plinth over! The integrity of the bearing mounting was badly compromised but it was slightly quicker to build.

I could give you other examples, I really could, but if you examine the decks you can find your own. I just don't like your implication that I might be criticizing these turntables for some ulterior reason. I'm not a Rega fanboy, I just appreciate good design and I'm honest about what I see. I fixed the turntables above and sold them. They worked perfectly and sounded good, especially for the price I sold them for, but I was and am uncomfortable selling products I know have inherent weaknesses.

And that is the reason I say that, given the choice, buy a Rega rather than a ProJect. Are Rega turntables perfect and fault free? No and not always but that's not the point. They are better built than ProJect decks of a similar price and that's enough.
 
Moral duty? I'm not sure I agree with you, I think sharing an opinion can be enough, but I can do as you ask.

The best way to understand ProJect construction philosophy is that they look for the cheapest way to make each part. You could say 'of course, don't all manufacturers' but if you make things too cheaply you can sacrifice reliability and robustness. When you know the approach you can look at ProJect turntables and see it all over the place but to fulfill my moral duty I'll give you a few examples from my experience.

What is the cheapest way you could make a platter/spindle assembly? You take a flat disk of cheap material and you shove a spindle through the middle of it. That's what ProJect often did. An MDF disk with a steel rod pushed through it forming the bearing spindle. Two pieces of cheap material.

Yeah ok but it works perfectly well you say. It does, but it's compromised. MDF is not the best material for a platter acoustically or structurally. It can absorb moisture and it's quite soft. Anyone who's owned MDF furniture knows how poorly it holds screws but ProJect use tons of it in less than ideal configurations.

One deck I had sported a very wobbly/buckled platter. Someone had obviously accidentally lent on the platter and the soft MDF had deformed at the spindle. Another deck had a much thicker MDF platter but the spindle was so thin it bent!

Rega use a separate sub-platter on all of their decks which avoid this potential problem. If you lean on the platter it will simply flip up away from the sub-platter until it hits the plinth. It also means the motor noise is not connected directly to the bit the record is sitting on but we'll leave it at that, better move on.

Remember we're talking about building things in the cheapest way possible? I'll point out a few features on the tonearms I fixed.

What is the cheapest way you could make a tonearm tube and headshell assembly? You do what ProJect did, you flatten an aluminium tube at one end and put two holes in it. Again, it works. So where is the compromise? Well you need a fingerlift but it would cost more to built it into the head-shell so make it a separate piece held on my the cartridge bolts. And how do you attach the other end of the tube to the bearing boss? A single tiny grub screw. So it's quite easy for the tube to pull out, ripping the wires, or to rotate a bit throwing the azimuth down the toilet. But hey, it's cheap!

Last one. I had a deck where the platter bearing had fallen out of the bottom of the deck. On investigation the bearing flange was attached to the underside of the (MDF) plinth with three small wood screws. Rega bearings go in from the top so any downward force just pushes the flange against the plinth. The ProJect bearing was solely supported by the three screws so the platter had been lent on and burst the screws out of the MDF.

I scratched my head wondering why they'd done it that way, then I realized. Everything else screwed onto the underside of the plinth. The motor, the switch, the arm screws etc. Nothing else screwed on from the top. Screwing the bearing on from the underside as well meant that on the production line there was no need to turn the plinth over! The integrity of the bearing mounting was badly compromised but it was slightly quicker to build.

I could give you other examples, I really could, but if you examine the decks you can find your own. I just don't like your implication that I might be criticizing these turntables for some ulterior reason. I'm not a Rega fanboy, I just appreciate good design and I'm honest about what I see. I fixed the turntables above and sold them. They worked perfectly and sounded good, especially for the price I sold them for, but I was and am uncomfortable selling products I know have inherent weaknesses.

And that is the reason I say that, given the choice, buy a Rega rather than a ProJect. Are Rega turntables perfect and fault free? No and not always but that's not the point. They are better built than ProJect decks of a similar price and that's enough.
Thanks for this clarification. I have to say the things you are describing very much sounds like decks from the lower end of the Pro-Ject range. I owned a Pro-Ject Debut many years ago which certainly did feel a bit flimsily built but it did sound good for the money & never let me down. None of the issues you have mentioned sound anything like the Classic I owned which as I said appeared to be very solidly built. Is there any evidence of a high level of warranty claims for Pro-Ject decks?
TS
 
I have to say the things you are describing very much sounds like decks from the lower end of the Pro-Ject range.

Low to middle but it doesn't really matter. My point is that the built quality is poor relative to other products which cost a similar amount. So..why buy them? I wouldn't buy any ProJect turntable as I object to their build philosophy on principal.

I don't care how cheap the deck is, it's wrong to sell someone a product that can literally just fall apart. It might be cheap but to the buyer it might still be an important purchase and a bad experience could put them off vinyl altogether.

Warranty claims, I have no idea.
 
I would always pay extra & buy a Rega or even a Technics. I have given this advice to friends who ended up with a P1 & a P2. Both are happy.
 
Planar3 ;0)

AR Turntable. A later Legend or EB101 as they are easier to fit arms etc to.
Systemdek. A few variants but sounds good with either a Linn or Rega arm.

With all these old decks it's about condition. A lot of old Linn arms are shagged, Rega arms are almost indestructible. A worn main bearing won't help the sound.

My pick is the Systemdek. You should get a good one for £250 ish. The AR will be less but it's a softer sound. Still a good turntable though.

There are other options but these are the ones that come up a lot as they were big sellers.

I lent a guy on a different forum an Audio Note Arm that I have sat in a box (the one based on the RB250), to try on his Systemdek.
He nearly didn't give it back ! - I think he liked the combo.
I didn't get to hear it, and I wish I had. I might look out for a Systemdek table to use the arm on. It sounds a worthwhile trial.
 
I lent a guy on a different forum an Audio Note Arm that I have sat in a box to try on his Systemdek. He nearly didn't give it back ! - I think he liked the combo.

Most of them came with a Linn Basik arm or a Japanese Systemdek badged arm which was broadly similar. The Rega arms are just plain better arms. The deck is good enough that it still sounds fine with the Linn or Systemdek arm, I would happily buy one like that, but the Rega arm is better and can cope with better quality cartridges.
 
Over the past few years I've fixed quite a few ProJect turntables. Totally stripped them, arm rewires etc. After that I would never buy a ProJect turntable.

The build quality is terrible. Yes, the more expensive ones are better built but still terrible. Everything is done as cheaply as it can be done.

I don't see this as bashing.

I have to be honest, I get a bit annoyed with the Pro-Ject bashing that goes on in this forum.

I agree, but then the internet is full of 'opinions', some have more bias than others.
 
The only thing to note with Systemdek is that most of them don’t have electronic speed switching and the suspension needs to be quite precise in order to get the belt to stay on if you’re playing 45s. It’s not rocket science but worth noting.

As for Pro-Ject, they’re built to a price, sure, but the same factory does an awful lot of other turntable work, too. Lots of OEM plus the EAT brand, so if they weren’t capable, they would still be in business. As you pay more, the quality goes up, as with other brands. I’d still rather have a Rega, personally though.
 
Well, that’s all made me think twice about a project! I have to say though, having been up and down the vinyl chain (original planar 3 / Townshend rock / roksan radius) the project essential 2, I am currently using, sounds better than it looks. I bought it for £100, added an ortofon om20 stylus (used) and a cork mat. Whilst it looks and feels basic it sounds pretty good for the outlay and has gotten me back into spinning vinyl.

I think I’ll go for the Rega Planar 3. Just hope it’s a significant upgrade!
 
The RP3 as I’ve already said is a safe bet. It’s consistently been a very popular deck for many years & I’m sure you’ll find it’s a good step up over your Essential.
However, this thread has “made you think twice about a ProJect”. You’ve been generally happy with the ProJect you’ve got & you say it sounds pretty good for it’s cost.
But a few people have come along & criticised ProJect for build quality & suggested a Rega, one of whom is a dealer who sells Rega & successfully put you off the brand.
As a neutral, I find this a bit of a shame.
 
To be it's a no brainer. I wouldn't even be bothering looking for alternatives.

Indeed.

Rega design performance turntables with a clear and proven philosophy, from Naiad down to P1 - the common thought and DNA is clear to see.

Project assemble parts, admittedly pretty well.
 
The ProJect bearing was solely supported by the three screws so the platter had been lent on and burst the screws out of the MDF.

Amazing.

So if I go upstairs and stand on my Rega 3 it will not break because it is better built...:rolleyes:


You project your prejudice quite clearly.
 
If I remember rightly you can allegedly stand on the platter of a Technics SP10 Mk3 and, not only will it be fine, but if you hit Start it’ll still spin up to 33rpm in a third of a turn.

Where you’d end up, though, I have no idea...
 
I think I’ll go for the Rega Planar 3. Just hope it’s a significant upgrade!

It should be, it's more expensive! Rega have a more up front, dynamic sound. I'm sure you'll be happy. I'd avoid the Bias and Elyse cartridges though as you can get better for the same money. The Exact is brilliant if you can get a package deal with that.
 


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