New Quad II Classics problems
- Thread starter Nagraboy
- Start date
Barrymagrec
pfm Member
No idea what size the screws are but if you were to use an undersize (M3 on an M4 screw say) thin nylon or fibre washer screwed on as a retainer might that help? Assuming a pozi head it should be fairly simple to poke a long screwdriver through the cage and locate the screws.
Just a thought.
Nagraboy
Ausculta fili
Thanks for those designation numbers - I may need to make use of them!
Eyebroughty
JohnC
Hi,
Glad you got things sorted, Quad are a great company.
Once you get your replacement remember to run them in as per the manual.
I let mine run in for about 16 hours, but 12 hours is fine, no input from the source, just everything switched on and left as below, and yes they get hot.
Cheers
John
Warming up (or running in) should always be done with the volume control at zero. Always remember to switch the power amplifiers off when they are not in use.
Running In New Equipment Most high fidelity equipment works better after it has been run in. With valve amplifiers running in is very important. Valve components work at high voltages and temperatures and when new they should spend an extended period at those temperatures to bed in. This is especially the case with the output valves and the output transformer.
We recommend a running in period of at least four and preferably twelve hours before you first use the equipment. If you decide to run in your equipment for this extended period, make doubly sure that all the safety conditions covered in this manual are fully met. Supervise the equipment for the first hour or so and if you have to leave the equipment unattended thereafter, have someone look in every so often to make sure all is well.
Glad you got things sorted, Quad are a great company.
Once you get your replacement remember to run them in as per the manual.
I let mine run in for about 16 hours, but 12 hours is fine, no input from the source, just everything switched on and left as below, and yes they get hot.
Cheers
John
Warming up (or running in) should always be done with the volume control at zero. Always remember to switch the power amplifiers off when they are not in use.
Running In New Equipment Most high fidelity equipment works better after it has been run in. With valve amplifiers running in is very important. Valve components work at high voltages and temperatures and when new they should spend an extended period at those temperatures to bed in. This is especially the case with the output valves and the output transformer.
We recommend a running in period of at least four and preferably twelve hours before you first use the equipment. If you decide to run in your equipment for this extended period, make doubly sure that all the safety conditions covered in this manual are fully met. Supervise the equipment for the first hour or so and if you have to leave the equipment unattended thereafter, have someone look in every so often to make sure all is well.
Hi Guys Haven’t posted for a while but here goes,
I have owned a pair of QUAD II Classics that arrived in Australia in 2007 according to the shipping details stuck to the side of the packaging, Serial No’s 0415 & 0416. They are still on regular rotation at my place, usually driving a pair of NS1000M’s.
Sorry to hear about your issues, if you stick with it and try to get it sorted you should end up with a nice pair of classic amps.
The circuit is identical to the original 1957 version with the exception of increasing the values of the PSU caps, a 100pf cap across the input grid to ground on the out-put valves and, as noted elsewhere, fitting of modern connectors to meet modern safety regulations. The Electrolytic Caps also have a Maximum voltage rating higher than the original 1957 version; Electrolytic technology has come a long way since the 1950’s. The end product sounds every bit as good as the original with the added promise of better reliability.
The first thing you need to do is get the metal top cover off, this is the only issue with the new QUAD II Classics and is there for safety and consumer liability issues. The first samples of the QUAD II Classics actually came fitted with 6L6GC’s (branded as KT66's) rather than actual KT66’s. Although both tubes are electrically interchangeable the KT66 has a bigger glass envelope and needs more space to dissipate the heat, the metal top cover doesn’t help here. From the picture shown I can see your sample has real KT66’s fitted, Take the covers off and put them aside. You can put the small screws back in the screw holes to cover the holes and so you don’t loose the screws (the screw won’t come into contact with any live parts within the chassis).
I now run the JJ’s KT66’s which have the full-sized glass envelope so my covers came off soon after taking ownership. I put the top covers along with original QUAD branded KT66’s, which are the afore mention re-branded 6L6GC’s, aside to be sold on along with the amp.
I would talk to the dealer about getting consecutive serial numbers if for nothing more than resale value, these amps are normally traded among enthusiasts who can be quite meticulous about small things like this. In reality though; the production line and manufacturing processes are quite mature by now and I would expect very little variation between product samples.
Hope it all sorts itself out and you get to enjoy what is actually a very nice modern take on a classic amplifier design. Faithfull re-introduction of old classic designs don’t happen often, the QUAD II Classic is a rare exception, enjoy.
PS; The matching QC-Twenty four is an absolute corker and probably the best way partner modern source hardware up to the QUAD II Classic.
LPSpinner
I have owned a pair of QUAD II Classics that arrived in Australia in 2007 according to the shipping details stuck to the side of the packaging, Serial No’s 0415 & 0416. They are still on regular rotation at my place, usually driving a pair of NS1000M’s.
Sorry to hear about your issues, if you stick with it and try to get it sorted you should end up with a nice pair of classic amps.
The circuit is identical to the original 1957 version with the exception of increasing the values of the PSU caps, a 100pf cap across the input grid to ground on the out-put valves and, as noted elsewhere, fitting of modern connectors to meet modern safety regulations. The Electrolytic Caps also have a Maximum voltage rating higher than the original 1957 version; Electrolytic technology has come a long way since the 1950’s. The end product sounds every bit as good as the original with the added promise of better reliability.
The first thing you need to do is get the metal top cover off, this is the only issue with the new QUAD II Classics and is there for safety and consumer liability issues. The first samples of the QUAD II Classics actually came fitted with 6L6GC’s (branded as KT66's) rather than actual KT66’s. Although both tubes are electrically interchangeable the KT66 has a bigger glass envelope and needs more space to dissipate the heat, the metal top cover doesn’t help here. From the picture shown I can see your sample has real KT66’s fitted, Take the covers off and put them aside. You can put the small screws back in the screw holes to cover the holes and so you don’t loose the screws (the screw won’t come into contact with any live parts within the chassis).
I now run the JJ’s KT66’s which have the full-sized glass envelope so my covers came off soon after taking ownership. I put the top covers along with original QUAD branded KT66’s, which are the afore mention re-branded 6L6GC’s, aside to be sold on along with the amp.
I would talk to the dealer about getting consecutive serial numbers if for nothing more than resale value, these amps are normally traded among enthusiasts who can be quite meticulous about small things like this. In reality though; the production line and manufacturing processes are quite mature by now and I would expect very little variation between product samples.
Hope it all sorts itself out and you get to enjoy what is actually a very nice modern take on a classic amplifier design. Faithfull re-introduction of old classic designs don’t happen often, the QUAD II Classic is a rare exception, enjoy.
PS; The matching QC-Twenty four is an absolute corker and probably the best way partner modern source hardware up to the QUAD II Classic.
LPSpinner
Nagraboy
Ausculta fili
Thank you John for your diligence, my good man. I shall do my best to follow your instructions. As of tonight I'm utterly incoherent due to champagne and gin, but merry Christmas to you and a happy new year. And praise be to Our Lord.
Mike Reed
pfm Member
How seasonal to be suffering from the affluence of incohol. Incoherence should be the least of your prob's with that other-worldly combination (Let's see; gin and tonic; substitute dry bubbly for tonic.....it could work, I s'pose......).
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
Oh dear oh dear.... I would have hoped Quad were above such tosh.... Ah well all par for the course these days...
Tony L
Administrator
The current Quad IIs are TdP redesigned/tweaked aren't they? I’m sure he was involved somewhere, i.e. these aren’t the original untouched Walker design. The run-in info is decidedly odd. Are they maybe expecting the end-user to ensure the transformer potting compound has got to exactly where it should?! Even then I can’t see any reason for not listening to it!
PS Leaving any valve amp for 12 hours likely unattended is actually the very last advice I’d give to anyone.
PS Leaving any valve amp for 12 hours likely unattended is actually the very last advice I’d give to anyone.
chartz
If it’s broke fix it!
That run-in thing is a silly audiophile obsession. They will power up then wait for a couple of hours before they start listening.
Did you know that passive components needed a run-in period before they started to sound good?
I’ve read that those are the real original clones. TdP and Andy Grove designed the more powerful versions.
Did you know that passive components needed a run-in period before they started to sound good?
I’ve read that those are the real original clones. TdP and Andy Grove designed the more powerful versions.
Barrymagrec
pfm Member
I think run in instructions are actually for the benefit of the user`s ears, so they get used to the new device rather than send it straight back, because it sounds "different / wrong".
Correct
Zombie
pfm Member
The hifi shop is inbetween, isn't it?
paulfromcamden
Baffled
If the amps need 12 hours of (supervised) run-in why don't Quad just do it in the factory before they ship?
To me it sounds like Quad made the decision
A far cry from when I called Quad (a few years ago
) and the phone was answered by Peter Walker, willing to help with a pair of amps which must have been over twenty years old at the time - lovely chap, different times, great loss.Yes, the dealer should be making sure that the amps work before delivery. Even more significant is that Quad should be making sure that a copy of an iconic product is checked on arrival from China.
Non consecutive numbers will affect future selling price, dealer will be aware of this (as will Quad). Unless neither dealer or Quad expect these amps to be worth having a few years down the line.
Say again - cheapskates.
Nagraboy
Ausculta fili
Tim designed the Quad II Classic Integrated, but not the Quad II reissue that I have. The design is basically as original, apart from a change in the rectifier valve and some component values changed to aid reliability etc. Other than that it also has modern socketry and better fit and finish.
Nagraboy
Ausculta fili
To me it sounds like Quad made the decision
A far cry from when I called Quad (a few years ago
Yes, the dealer should be making sure that the amps work before delivery. Even more significant is that Quad should be making sure that a copy of an iconic product is checked on arrival from China.
Non consecutive numbers will affect future selling price, dealer will be aware of this (as will Quad). Unless neither dealer or Quad expect these amps to be worth having a few years down the line.
Say again - cheapskates.
I don’t think consecutive serial numbers makes any difference to me. Certainly wouldn’t if I were buying them pre-owned.
Quad’s head of service is off work now, so someone else at Quad must’ve made the decision. It’s going to make it tricky to pack the single mono for postage back to them, as they are each boxed separately then put into one larger box.