Linn Kan Baffles

[kriss777]

I need to make some new baffles for my Linn Kans, my question is how important is it to rebate the baffle so the bass unit sits inside the baffle, cutting/routing the round holes is the easy bit, the outside profile of the bass unit looks a bit trickier, so I was thinking of mounting the bass unit on the front ( or even on the rear) of the baffle, will this be ok or will it upset the crossover frequency etc.

Chris

 

[Mr Pig]

I'm sure it would effect the sound, no idea how though. On the Mk2 Linn mounted the tweeter forward of the main baffle so clearly they felt there was mileage in the position of the two drivers relative to each other.

 

[Tony L]

The B110B needs rebating as it is a long-throw unit and without it the rubber roll surround will hit the grille cloth. Pretty sure the raised tweeter in the Kan II is just to avoid diffraction from the cabinet edge. What shifting the distance will do to the time/phase alignment is up for grabs, though I’m pretty sure the Kan wins few awards in this regard to start with. It is a very simple crossover.

 

[Mr Pig]

The B110B needs rebating as it is a long-throw unit and without it the rubber roll surround will hit the grille cloth.

I think there must be more to it. The LS3/5A has the driver mounted on the back of the baffle. Linn could've done likewise but chose the option of routing out the baffle for the driver.

 

[Fatmarley]

It's very important to keep the drivers in the exact same position on every axis. Change the positions and the crossover won't work as intended, and ultimately it will change the frequency response.

 

[Craig B]

Kan 1 appears to be 3rd order on the tweeter and 2nd order (reverse phase) on the bass/mid. Don't know if rear mounting the bass/mid would seriously affect time alignment enough to notice, however, there would be a reduction of enclosed air volume to consider.

 

[david ellwood]

Rear mounting has a couple of disadvantages, it’s impossible to get them properly airtight and the contact surface area to the cabinet is hugely reduced compromising energy transfer/stable mounting.

 

[hp1]

to save routing out the rebates one could make the baffle from 2 pcs of 6mm mdf ,the front one with the rebate hole size cut in and the rear piece with the mounting hole then glue them together with resin w.