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Exhaustive review of the SSP12 inner platter for LP12

Edmund told me that my Greenstreet sub-chassis weights 1.2 kg versus his Mober lighter sub-chassis weighing only 910g...
Karousel + Greenstreet sub-chassis + Linn Ekos arm = very heavy !
So i may have to stress the springs more to get the tone arm board (part of the chassis) lower than the top plate in order to get the outer platter a bit also lower...
Edmund thinks it will fix the speed inaccuracy issue...
What about drilling some symetrical holes in the Greenstreet sub chassis to get it lighter close to 910g?
 
I don't see why the subchassis would have any effect at all.

I happen to have weighted a Greenstreet and a Mober, and they both weigh about the same. My Greenstreet was 1.033 kg and the Mober 1.011 kg. https://www.hifiaf.com/three-lp12-subchassis/

I used a Greenstreet/Mober combination with no problem, though I was using a very light Aro arm.
 
Hi, sorry to hear that your still having problems.
I don’t understand the comment about the GS being to heavy.
When the TT is running smoothly with a record playing, please ‘wiggle’ the power lead where it plugs into the control unit. Don’t pull on it like you are going to disconnect it, but manipulate the cable near the plug and ‘wiggle’ the plug itself. Any speed issues? Please do the same with the D.C. lead that some from the control unit and runs to the D.C motor. Any speed issues?
 
Edmund told me that my Greenstreet sub-chassis weights 1.2 kg versus his Mober lighter sub-chassis weighing only 910g...
Karousel + Greenstreet sub-chassis + Linn Ekos arm = very heavy !
So i may have to stress the springs more to get the tone arm board (part of the chassis) lower than the top plate in order to get the outer platter a bit also lower...
Edmund thinks it will fix the speed inaccuracy issue...
What about drilling some symetrical holes in the Greenstreet sub chassis to get it lighter close to 910g?
I would say that all of those ideas are very bad ones! Set up the TT so that all heights are optimal and everything is level in all directions as per normal set up procedure. Either the tacho sees the strip on the outer platter or it doesn’t.......a please see my previous post looking for electrical faults with the control unit sockets.
 
I think by far the most likely issue is tacho positioning. Spend your time and effort there (after checking power leads as @matfff suggests above) and I think you'll get it sorted out. Use the brass piece as a guide for where to set the tacho (even if you don't use the brass piece), then make sure the tacho is oriented so that it sees the lines on the strip dead-on, then experiment with moving the tacho inward and outward vis a vis the spindle.
 
I think by far the most likely issue is tacho positioning. Spend your time and effort there (after checking power leads as @matfff suggests above) and I think you'll get it sorted out. Use the brass piece as a guide for where to set the tacho (even if you don't use the brass piece), then make sure the tacho is oriented so that it sees the lines on the strip dead-on, then experiment with moving the tacho inward and outward vis a vis the spindle.
Yes, concur with that. Think blu tack was also mentioned before to raise and lower the tacho, also an excellent idea.
 
Yep, that's what I use -- I'd get some blu tack out and move the tacho around (and up and down too, closer and further from the underside of the platter) until it's steady...
 
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So i used 32 small pieces of double sided 3M tape set perpendicular from the circle in order to have a thick sheet circle between both 16 marker rings!

I'm listening now to check whether or not it performs flawlessly...
Crossed fingers!
First side of Art Pepper "Living legend" was played errorless!
No error also in the B side of the record!
It sounds things are improving a lot!
 
I would say that all of those ideas are very bad ones! Set up the TT so that all heights are optimal and everything is level in all directions as per normal set up procedure. Either the tacho sees the strip on the outer platter or it doesn’t.......a please see my previous post looking for electrical faults with the control unit sockets.
Not sure this opinion is based on how many chassis, tonearm . normal set up does not apply to all , all parts has different weight. It is much easier with Ittok, EKOS is a lot heavier, you need to stress the springs to pull the whole chassis, tonearm, inner platter , outer platter and bearing up, in case one spring close the tonearm set very tight, the other two has to set high too to get level. It is not imagination, you can be proved when you see the platter is high from the top plate compared with other Linn LP12.
You mentioned in your previous post that the faulty Mober due for return, I did send you a new one by FedEx at my cost the next day after figured out your issues, a little delay due to your message telling me to send you everything to fix the problem when I do not know your problem, I did not understand what did you mean by everything, because you buy almost all my Mober parts from me in one order.
 
The Mober chassis has done some improvement recently, 3 larger hole to make it easier to adjust the top rubber easier. It is around 910 g now.
 
Edmund, no disrespect intended to your suggestions or knowledge, I was more referring to the idea of drilling holes into the GS sub chassis to make it lighter........
Good to hear of continued innovation at Mober.
I have never had an issue with my earlier version, but then I don’t go in for grommet twisting, as long as the springs hang perfectly straight I don’t see the point. They hang straight with a well designed and manufactured top plate, such as the Mober.
I have the defective Mober control unit packaged up and ready to ship back to you, at my cost. We are currently experiencing further lockdowns in my area of NW England. I am now so old, the Government tell me I’m not allowed out! Never fear, as soon as possible, it will be back with you.
 
Edmund me to I'm not a stinky wasp but a customer having to deal with UNEXPECTED SPEED issues!
YES thank you for sending free of charge a replacement tachometer supposed to cure the issues...

I tried to do my best to improve the setting of my deck with my GS sub-chassis + Linn Ekos1 tone arm + Karousel bearing.
I could lower my subplatter above the Mober top plate from 8mm to 7 mm by destressing a bit the springs.
This gave me a far better bounce than before.
Also i narrowed the gap between the outerplatter and the tachometer using 3M double sided tape + your secund 16 marker ring...

As matfff suggested i try to wiggle the leeds to check whether or not it may occur a speed issue: the answer is NO!
I will listen more records today to see if the mess is definitively cured!
 
Edmund me to I'm not a stinky wasp but a customer having to deal with UNEXPECTED SPEED issues!
YES thank you for sending free of charge a replacement tachometer supposed to cure the issues...

I tried to do my best to improve the setting of my deck with my GS sub-chassis + Linn Ekos1 tone arm + Karousel bearing.
I could lower my subplatter above the Mober top plate from 8mm to 7 mm by destressing a bit the springs.
This gave me a far better bounce than before.
Also i narrowed the gap between the outerplatter and the tachometer using 3M double sided tape + your secund 16 marker ring...

As matfff suggested i try to wiggle the leeds to check whether or not it may occur a speed issue: the answer is NO!
I will listen more records today to see if the mess is definitively cured!
Good to hear that my issue with the Mober control unit was a one off. The replacement unit has performed flawlessly. I therefore strongly concur with Hi-Fi AF and Edmunds recommendations.
 
I have another weird issue:
when i want to stop the Mober while hitting 33.3 BTN it slows down at very slow motion but it cannot STOP?
One hour later it's still spinning at very low motion???
matfff did you received a Mober control unit as a replacement for your faulty one?
 
I have another weird issue:
when i want to stop the Mober while hitting 33.3 BTN it slows down at very slow motion but it cannot STOP?
One hour later it's still spinning at very low motion???
matfff did you received a Mober control unit as a replacement for your faulty one?
Hi, yes I did. My original had an electrical fault where the power lead entered the control unit. I suspect dry/cracked joints. Probably not helped by the fact that FedEx, in their wisdom, trans shipped the delivery multiple times on it’s journey from HK to the U.K. it seemed to do a little tour of the EU before it reached me. The second unit only took off and landed once!
 
Hi, yes I did. My original had an electrical fault where the power lead entered the control unit. I suspect dry/cracked joints. Probably not helped by the fact that FedEx, in their wisdom, trans shipped the delivery multiple times on it’s journey from HK to the U.K. it seemed to do a little tour of the EU before it reached me. The second unit only took off and landed once!
Hi, Matt, understood. The Mober has been selling well last few months, the day I ship 3 including the one to you. I agreed with you that dry joints. That is the first one with that fault in last few years. No problem, I am not in rush, only when the pandemic getting better and when you are free, Thanks!
 
I have another weird issue:
when i want to stop the Mober while hitting 33.3 BTN it slows down at very slow motion but it cannot STOP?
One hour later it's still spinning at very low motion???
matfff did you received a Mober control unit as a replacement for your faulty one?
Can you shoot me an video, I have never seen this fault before.
And I think it is enough, that speed issues can be resolved by exchange couple message like other did, but you jump to conclusion without any knowledge about the CPU operation, it took 2 weeks.
You want me send you new tachometer the first day with your had speed issues, I did send you one by FedEx, Then problem persists, you want me send you new Mober CPU board.
I show you the photo from other customer that outer platter too high would affect the speed reading, I remind you that , two weeks later , you finally show me your LP12 with the outer platter equal high.
I suggest you use thick sticker and use second 16 marker rings to make the strips closer to the tachometer. Problem seems to be fixed.
I never seen that motor spinning issues, I do not have solution,
I suggest, under PayPal protection scheme, you return Mober DC motor control to me, I will refund you the full amount.
You can send to UK Stamford Audio if it is easier for you.
I cannot stand for overwhelmed message so many days.
In my last 14 years of sales, never met that situation.
 
hello bigfish,
You are getting upset and tell me there is NO SOLUTION...?
;-((
Please calm down and understand me being really troubled with all the unexpected issues i had to deal with...
I WANT to keep your Mober DC unit and PLEASE take some time to understand why my unit is not going to STOP!
Maybe your idea sticking another layer onto the 16 marker ring is not as good as expected...
May i try to remove it since my outerplatter is now in a good position and VR51 set at correct voltage at 2.85 volts
 
For what it's worth, I still think that a better solution would be to raise the tacho toward the platter by putting some blu tack underneath it, rather than lowering the disc toward the tacho by putting two-sided tape underneath it.

Never experienced the issue with the platter failing to stop.
 


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