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Linn LV-X counterweight stuck.....easy fix??

Tonewheelkev

...I can dream!!
Hi folks
...just trying to press my old faithful Heybrook TT2/LV-X back into service, after some time left alone:rolleyes:

Counterweight was almost seized into position....and it's now obvious that the rubber component of the centralising bushing has long turned to s**t!! :)

Sure I can fix this in a DIY way....but wondered what 'wisdoms' are currently out there please??
 
You used to be able to get rubber restoration fluid for power steering bushings that worked wonders.

Be careful , i believe those LVX bushes are unobtainium.
 
You used to be able to get rubber restoration fluid for power steering bushings that worked wonders.

Be careful , i believe those LVX bushes are unobtainium.
....Aaaagghh well....as the original is disintegrated...and totally gone now....suppose it has to be a DIY fix!! :)
 
I've got the bushing....the internal bit!
It's the soft layer between bushing and counterweight that's gone.
If I could get somethin' 3D printed....then I suppose I could do away with the rubber bit....might be better from an energy retention point of view??
 
You used to be able to get rubber restoration fluid for power steering bushings that worked wonders.

Be careful , i believe those LVX bushes are unobtainium.
True. I had this problem years ago with the rubber ring turned to goop. Rang Linn and they sent a free replacement but they said it was pretty much the last they had left.
 
I managed to fit new rubber in one but it was about 5 years ago so can't exactly remember what I used. I had various thicknesses of rubber to try but I would guess something like a bicycle inner tube may be what I used. So it can be repaired but it is a bit fiddly to get right but worth repairing.
 
True. I had this problem years ago with the rubber ring turned to goop. Rang Linn and they sent a free replacement but they said it was pretty much the last they had left.
Got a reply from Linn....."A suggestion to try would be to line the inside of the counterweight where the rubber ‘bush’ was previously with a small amount of Blu tack which will allow the counterweight to remain in position once the tonearm has been balanced."

Suppose I need to look around for some 'Audiophile Grade' Blu-tack now......:D:D:D:D
 
Emerges that suitably sized rubber 'o' rings are another way forward.
(Thanks Linn...HaHa....but not really keen on the Blu-Tack thing really!)
Matter of deciding both 'inside' and 'outside' ring dimensions...which will contribute to the tightness of the counterweight.
Has anyone tried this...and perhaps know dimensions??

(Looks like I/S is 9mm diameter and O/S is 13mm diam. approx
Question is...to go for Flat 'O' rings....or more common circular X-section types?)
 
X rings purpose comes from motocycle chains
as the X ring has a better ability to keep the chain-lube from centrifugaled off from the chain.
As long as you don't plan to lube your cw with oil and rev it to 7000 after that,
no need for an X ring on a cw.

Further the X ring has the sealing capability to keep the oil between the inner and outter chain parts & in a motocycle use you'd want as little friction as possible.
With the cw the friction, good contact and not move by itself is mostly what you want
& the sealing capabilty is completely irrelevant.
So I suppose an X ring would not only not be necessary, but rather counterproductive
in the sense of making tight good contact.
 
Sorted!!
Picked up some 3/8" nitrile o-rings from RS, (decided on Imperial sizing...seemed to be more fitting...See what I did there!! :) ...than the closest metric values!!) ....stacked 5 of 'em into the counterweight, and fitted original plastic insert through the centre...BINGO!!
Counterweight sits firmly/squarely onto the arm...and I have adjustment again.
All's well that ends well:D??
 


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