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Which Router?

kevinrt

pfm Member
I have seen some discussion of power tools on here, so can you recommend a router?

I’ve seen a 1200w, 1/4” Bosch model for about £85, with some reviews complaining about the depth gauge. Never having used one I don’t know how important this is. The price is about right, but would be happy to pay a bit more if it will make a difference.

It will be used quite lightly for a bit of DIY/hobbyist use, so I don’t need Makita/Dewalt.

What do you suggest?

regards

Kevin
 
I have seen some discussion of power tools on here, so can you recommend a router?

I’ve seen a 1200w, 1/4” Bosch model for about £85, with some reviews complaining about the depth gauge. Never having used one I don’t know how important this is. The price is about right, but would be happy to pay a bit more if it will make a difference.

It will be used quite lightly for a bit of DIY/hobbyist use, so I don’t need Makita/Dewalt.

What do you suggest?

regards

Kevin
I don't know that model but generally Bosch are decent middle of the road tools ( green more DI Y, blue professional).

You mention light use, can you say what sort of thing you'd be using it for?

I have a 1/2" CMT router that's pricey and powerful and a knock-off makita-like laminate trimmer with plunge housing and tilting base that is neither but works surprisingly well for small jobs. Might be a lottery with quality control tho.

Some speak well of Lidl/aldi tools when they come along.

Depth setting can be fiddly and often operator error plays a part.
 
Weird coincidence.

I have a half inch chuck Axminster White - VERY good. At least 3 essentially unused condition, have come up online for around £30-50 over the past 2 weeks, some available now, or were earlier today.

A friend asked, so I searched. I have a spare in the post at the moment - at that sort of lunatic low price...………………….

I'll have a Ryobi in a small table, a White in a Wood Rat and the spare White, unattached.
 
I have the Bosch 1400W with the variable speed, and it's been fine. I can see why the depth gauge might come under criticism, but I always double-check with a caliper anyway.
I paid around £95 on eBay if I remember rightly (seller epictools)
 
I see that a common differential is the 1/4” or 1/2” chuck. I assumed the 1/2” was for heavier duty work.

Is that correct or is there another reason to have the larger chuck?

Kevin
 
Is there the same choice of bits for both 1/4” and 1/2” and do they cost the same?

I have made a replica Quadraspire shelf to fit my turntable and fancied making it look smart around the edges. Birthday coming up as well and I usually have no idea when asked for present suggestions.

regards

Kevin
 
Some bits only come in large shank. I've only seen tiny (2-3-4mm) straight in 1/4 shank, but I am sure that you could buy them in 1/2 somewhere, at a price.

Don't buy a 1/2 chuck router without a set of smaller collets, or figure to buy a set if they are missing/not part of the deal.

You can pay whatever you want (almost) for any bit, but you get what you pay for.
If you want GOOD bits, buy from Wealden. Not cheap, but not crazy prices either and super quality.
 
Is there the same choice of bits for both 1/4” and 1/2” and do they cost the same?

I have made a replica Quadraspire shelf to fit my turntable and fancied making it look smart around the edges. Birthday coming up as well and I usually have no idea when asked for present suggestions.

regards

Kevin

What is the timber/material the shelf is constructed ofand approx how big a moulding do you wish to achieve ( ie, depth and width of moulding required, this will determine a cutter shank size and power of router required)
 
What is the timber/material the shelf is constructed ofand approx how big a moulding do you wish to achieve ( ie, depth and width of moulding required, this will determine a cutter shank size and power of router required)

I’ve made up a template/test of concept in 18mm ply which looks about right. Just waiting for a friend at the wood recycling centre to spot a nice piece of solid wood for the finished product, but the dimensions will be about the same (18 x 500 x 600mm).

I will no doubt find lots of other uses, but I won’t be installing kitchens or any other heavy duty projects.

Kevin
 
Installing a kitchen requires power for speed, power for a DIYer produces a good finish and reduced limitations on what bits you can use.

Low power means limitations of cut and bit/cutter.
 
Is there the same choice of bits for both 1/4” and 1/2” and do they cost the same?

I have made a replica Quadraspire shelf to fit my turntable and fancied making it look smart around the edges. Birthday coming up as well and I usually have no idea when asked for present suggestions.

regards

Kevin
As Vinny says , wealden are great. Sometimes it's worth getting a set of cutters but beware of buying loads you'll never use.

Practice on scrap, routers are very unforgiving. Too fast, too slow any deviation eg from the cord getting slightly snagged etc and it will all show up on your work.

I don't know the quadraspire shelf but can't help wondering whether having the router table mounted with a fence might be better, but that's just a hunch.

Oh, and rather like the other planer thicknesses thread be extremely careful. Along with an electric planer and grinder these machines travel at very high speed, bits can shatter and an unwary user might put a still running machine down with a bit protruding.

Fantastically versatile devices but go easy, wear good eye protection and learn to use properly.

Good luck.
 
I’ve made up a template/test of concept in 18mm ply which looks about right. Just waiting for a friend at the wood recycling centre to spot a nice piece of solid wood for the finished product, but the dimensions will be about the same (18 x 500 x 600mm).

I will no doubt find lots of other uses, but I won’t be installing kitchens or any other heavy duty projects.

Kevin

I am a retired carpenter and joiner and my first router was a 1/4inch Elu (Swiss made), and I bought a box set of bits which still survive today. As long as you clean the bits of the residue crust and a light sharpen touch up they last for years. BTW I sold the Elu not so long ago after 40 years of use.

A 1/4inch should be more than enough, regarding manufacturer, any of the big boys, all much the same but handy controls are speed control,a decent depth stop and fence/bush set up.
 
I have tried a variety of routers, and I cannot recommend the DeWalt DW-621 highly enough.

https://www.dewalt.com/products/pow...2-hp-maximum-motor-hp-evs-plunge-router/dw621

It is relatively compact for a 1/2" router. I especially like its in-built dust extraction system (hooked to a vacuum hose), which makes routing trenches, and speaker cutouts virtually dust-free. It also has fully variable electronically controlled speed (essential for cutting MDF at lower speed to increase chip size and reduce dust), soft-start, and practical plunge depth and gauge.

I love it so much I've got a second brand new one as a spare.
 
Is a plunge base necessary or can you do most things with a fixed base?

When does a plunge base become essential?

Kevin
 
OK. That makes sense.

Any other situations where It’s needed?

Kevin

If you ever foresee putting it in a router table you will need a plunge facility.

To that point, my rule of thumb is for routing big things like very large boards and mostly constructed furniture etc you want to take the router to the workpiece. For smaller bits of wood you want to take the wood to the router ie in a table. I have many routers (and a Quadraspire table) and would use my table router for that job. It is quite a challenging shape for a router with a large bevel and I would not do it with anything less that a 1/2 inch collet. In fact they are probably made on a spindle moulder which is a grown up router.
 


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