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Advice on making own leads - soldering iron

Amber Audio

This is the Day
Hi

In my youth I used to make/build my own stuff, modify Amiga computers for mates etc. Age and an accident resulting in the loss of an eye - kebabbed it with a high tensile wire - means I have no depth of field and done nothing DIY for 20 odd years, I've adapted to the eyesight issue and fitted a 10x5 cart the other day so a bit of confidence is back.

I'm shielding so I have some time to mess about and have a Cyrus amp inbound but no BFA cables. Rather than buying off the shelf cables I am thinking of making some up, if it goes awry I can always buy some off the shelf then.

Question is do I need and should I buy a cheapo soldering iron. spend a bit more on a station and if so what's decent at the lower end? A search show stuff from a tenner to hundreds, this on Amazon any use?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07X3CZ3FJ/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21

Initially I'm thinking Neutrik ProFi + Klotz or Mogami RCA and Van Damme + BFA/4mm Deltron Spkr. I'm assuming a soldered fix is preferable to grub screws?

Any advice would be appreciated. Extra tools/good suppliers/tips.

ATB

Gus
 
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Bloody ouch. Get the best iron you can afford with variable temp control and changeable tips.
Wear eye protection, I'm sure you do.
 
IMO, you don't really need to solder Deltron BFAs if you're using decent-sized cable - the grub screw thread is good and long, so you won't strip the thread by tightening down hard. They may be ugly, but they are very well made plugs.

If you have big cable you won't find it at all easy to solder Deltrons with a soldering iron, because there's a ~lot~ of metal in them. On the relatively few occasions that I've done it, I've used a small blowtorch.
 
changeable tips.

^^^this

If you fancy a dabble, different sized tips makes for versatility. You need a biggish one for heating a lump like a RCA centre pin, quickly, but a fine one for general component work.

Not sure of current prices, but Antex used to be excellent value for money for no frills irons.
 
For the soldering iron......Depends on how much you want to spend and how much you might use it - The Antex XS25 seems popular for a fixed temp cheaper option, or what I have (the Hakko FX888D) for temp controlled station, all have changeable tips. Never seen the Preciva so no comment but seems kinda cheap for what it claims to be and personally I prefer to go with good reputaion for some stuff.

Recent thread on PFM aboout soldering irons here -
https://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/what-thickness-of-soldering-iron-to-use.239488/

Youtube review of Hakko FX888D vs Weller WE1010 here, both about US$110 (dont know UK price) -

Cables/connectors - I like the Neutrik ProFi great solid RCA connectors. And I use Gotham GAC cable, avail with different numbers of cores and shielding depending on what youre making, it works fine for me even if there might be something better.
 
Antex XS25 230V Silicone here. I’m happy using it on cables, audio kit and vintage 8 bit computers, e.g. I’ve soldered DIL chips in with it. I do have a fancy Hakko desoldering gun though, and to be honest that is the hard bit.
 
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Antex XS25 230V Silicone here. I’m happy using it on cables, audio kit and vintage 8 bit computers, e.g. I’ve soldered DIL chips in with it. I do have a fancy Hakko desoldering gun though, and to be honest that is the hard bit.
I've been using a Antex XS25 for the best part of 17 years for audio DIYing. I'm on my second one now. Great irons. And will take on big jobs like A5 cable into Naim plugs as well as surface mount stuff.
 
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I need to get the hold of one too - for some guitar gubbins work.

Antex XS25 230V Silicone here. I’m happy using it on cables, audio kit and vintage 8 bit computers, e.g. I’ve soldered DIL chips in with it. I do have a fancy Hakko desoldering gun though, and to be honest that is the hard bit.

25W seems on the low side power wise - would that iron have enough clout for a larger bit to solder the likes of pickup wires to the back of a pot in a guitar ?
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Bloody ouch. Get the best iron you can afford with variable temp control and changeable tips.
Wear eye protection, I'm sure you do.
I'll be wearing safety specs - and a pirate patch :) When you're down to just the 1 eye you get cautious about some stuff real quick.
 
Thanks for all the advice so far - I am getting a list of part numbers together and online suppliers - Studiocare/Studiospares look like reasonable shops. Appears unlikely I'll need to solder the speaker cables using Deltron/Van Damme 2 core 4mm so that stuff is on the way.

I can see the XS25 Iron on Amazon and can get all the gubbins there in 1 shot - a stand/tips/sponge/solder etc

The other one I was looking at is on CPC - TENMA

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2...5.1698506411.1590238581-1251465126.1590238581

rVxbijzl.jpg
 
I've been making do with a very tiny Antex with a very short cable, and it's a complete faff - I really should get a decent solder station, with a variable temp, and changeable tips. I've probably done more damage and a worse job trying to make do with an inadequate soldering iron. Maplin used to do a cheap solder station, looked a bit like this one - might get something similar.
 
25W seems on the low side power wise - would that iron have enough clout for a larger bit to solder the likes of pickup wires to the back of a pot in a guitar ?

Seems to do ok. I do use the larger contact angled bit that comes with it, I really don’t get on with pointed bits that a lot of people use, not even for board & chip work. I also add flux if need be too. To my eyes most soldering problems are when people don’t get the heat in the right place, e.g. I was cringing when I watched TPS Mick’s wonderful Strat pickup blog on YouTube as he just wasn’t putting the heat where it needed to go and from my perspective was using a hopeless pointy bit on the iron which just made doing it so much harder. I’d definitely have struggled with that bit too!
 
25W seems on the low side power wise - would that iron have enough clout for a larger bit to solder the likes of pickup wires to the back of a pot in a guitar ?
Personally, I'd avoid anything under 60 W. Soldering irons are like amps, too much power can't do any harm, while not having enough has the potential to cause damage. Regarding tip size, I agree with Tony. Use the largest one that can comfortably get the job done. It's all about transferring heat, and here bigger is better.
 
I've been making do with a very tiny Antex with a very short cable, and it's a complete faff - I really should get a decent solder station, with a variable temp, and changeable tips. I've probably done more damage and a worse job trying to make do with an inadequate soldering iron. Maplin used to do a cheap solder station, looked a bit like this one - might get something similar.
I have one of those cheap Maplin ones that I'm not using. Do you want it? Might not be worth the postage, though.
 


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