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digital to analogue out for TV.

I use a cheap box from amazon for our bedroom tv, it’s an audio extractor thing. It has optical in and coax but also hdmi. In hdmi mode it will take the audio out to digital or phono sockets and pass the signal through. It’s handy but requires its own power also
 
or headphone socket if your TV has one.
On my Sony TV, I just use the headphone socket, which has a setting for either variable or fixed line level output.

Because every Sony I've had (and I haven't had a TV which wasn't a Sony), the h/phone out has always been volume adjustable; also cuts out internal speaker in some. My current 40" is 8 years old, and there's no provision for setting to line out; not that I need to though.
 
When we bought new Sony TVs a few years ago my wife complained about the sound quality so I added a Yamaha sound bar which works off the optical digital output on the TV. I use the headphone analogue output into my Rega amplifier. That way the wife does not have to use the hi-fi system.
 
What model TV do you have?

As said above, headphone jack or analogue out will work if you have them.
 
I've used one of these cheap optical out to analogue converters for several years and it's great!

Powered from a spare USB socket on the TV it comes on with the Telly and feeds the analogue inputs on my Naim amp.

No fuss and good results, and cheap as chips!
Which version and from where??
 
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I bought a Neet DAC in 2013. It has an optical input. Connected it up and never had a problem.
 
Hi.
It's an lg 43in 7400plb

Seems it has neither analogue out or headphone sockets, so you will need a DAC. There are loads of budget ones around and I'll bet plenty of members have them sitting in a drawer so maybe place a wanted ad.
 
Several years ago I bought from the forum a Muse Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 NOS Optical input from the TV & Coaxial input from the DVD player. The Muse had been modified as shown on a long thread on Head Fi. the output caps were removed then the PCB holes were bridged it also had the small bypass capacitors removed even with DC in the output. I lost the switching wall wart & added a linear 9v PSU

These mods worked well great bass, mids, however the treble after some industrial tube rolling in the pre-amp & power-amp with some unusual valves has increased resolution incredibly across the board I detected a hint of harshness/grain, I read on the same Head Fi thread about using fleabay sourced Russian PIO 5% capacitors OKBG-MH 1.0uF 600V @ £1.50 each( they must have cost a fortune to make) they are enormous.

My son who after building a stunningly good Nuvista pre-amp schematic off the TNT Audio site has the soldering iron bragging rights in our household, he removed the bridges; then he soldered lengths of cat 5 wire to the PCB

Surprisingly in my system these Russian Caps are better than NO Caps DC now gone?. Now the Bass was full and articulate , mids lush? Treble airy and sweet no hint of grain...initially I had no desire to bypass the caps on the Muse.
A friend of mine who designs/sells sound equipment ie just about everything valve was in town on business, he was listening for the first time to music on my system via the turntable; he was I believe amazed at what he heard he said he would have my Quad 57's in a heartbeat he could not believe their bass output; surprising as he uses various transmission line speakers & horns. After listening to a DVD he suggested I bypassed the P10 caps on the Muse DAC with 5000- 10000 pf silver mica caps.

I thought for £3 at the time and 5 minutes work ok. The pair of 5420 pf 350v 2% Russian silver mica caps My soldering iron wielding son is away, as I did not need to open the case I stuck them to the giant P10 Russian caps with double sided tape used cat 5 twisted copper pairs to solder across the P10 caps (bypass).Still smooth but much more detail shimmering treble with natural ambience, bass deeper & better defined. mid's more natural. The Muse Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 I don't think is still available now, worth buying S/H.
 
I use the headphone analogue output into my Rega amplifier. That way the wife does not have to use the hi-fi system.

Surprised the h/ph out is line; if not, s.q. will be compromised. My wife, whose second language is so-so English, prefers listening to the Sony's rear-facing and poor speaker sound. She simply doesn't like cans, despite this sonic route being effortlessly clear. I've no idea why (though her hearing is much better than mine). However, she always watches/listens to stuff on her laptop through some little Grados. Puzzling!

For most dramas and comedies, etc. I use one or other sets of cans. Oddly, the HD650s seem to suit TV but the Elears are much better for CD/Vinyl/radio. Anyway, they're both very capable cans.
 
Not necessarily. Panasonics, in particular, have excellent quality headphone outputs.

They're fine for cans, but presumably go through cheap pot's, with s.q. lower that with line out. Maybe there are h/ph outs without volume adj., but I can't see how that would work, t.b.h. I've never come to terms with going through two pot's when routed through the hifi ; the double adjustment alone, let alone the lesser s.q. would exclude that connectivity for me.
 
Slight thread hijack.

I haven’t really bothered about tv and film although I have often thought about trying to hook up the tv to the amp. I did try hooking the Blu-ray to the amp but found the picture on the tv lagged the sound and lost interest. Reading the above it seems the only way to avoid picture lagging the sound is to hook up the tv audio out rather than the Blu-ray audio out. Am I correct in my thinking?

If I am correct then the question would be do I hook the audio out from the tv direct to the amp, or would it be better taking a feed from the tv into the Wadia’s DAC?

Or should I simply buy a sound bar?!
 


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