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Bicycle front wheel removal

Looks like a through axle, I think there should be a tool that came with it that fits in the end to act as a lever so you can slacken it off.

Either that or there is a large allen socket in the end for you to stick a regular allen key in and undo it that way.
 
matt j said:
Looks like a through axle, I think there should be a tool that came with it that fits in the end to act as a lever so you can slacken it off.

Either that or there is a large allen socket in the end for you to stick a regular allen key in and undo it that way.
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Trying to get video help on through axels just further confuses...this video is nothing like our situation:

 
richgilb said:
Trying to get video help on through axels just further confuses...this video is nothing like our situation:

Click to expand...

That's a QR type, I think as per standard skewers you can get regular allen bolt ones and QR.

Does this picture help any? I suspect the caps you've removed are just to protect the allen key sockets from damage preventing removal.

Wren-Bolt-On-Axle.jpg
 
Thing is after the caps are removed there is no Allen key fitting. It's a round tube all the way through.
 
Thing is after the caps are removed there is no Allen key fitting. It's a round tube all the way through.
 
try tapping/pushing it through.

Wiggling the wheel might help it slide through.

It may help to screw one of the bolts back in by a couple of threads to help start it off, then remove when it has moved enough through the hub.
 
bor said:
try tapping/pushing it through.

Wiggling the wheel might help it slide through.

It may help to screw one of the bolts back in by a couple of threads to help start it off, then remove when it has moved enough through the hub.
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Tried that. It does not seem like it is right,and does not move at all, wr are starting to damage the metal. Yet it is not jammed, it does move when wiggling it but not at all when tapping it
 
Chances are if you've not removed it in a long time that the anodizing has worn off the thru axle where it meets the inner race on your cartridge bearing and the two are now nicely 'galled' together.

My daily driver did this pre xmas despite regular wheel removal and greasing. Just took a couple of wet rides and lazy storage without drying the bike.

Assuming you've not missed a simple removal trick your best bet is to hacksaw through the end caps on either side of the hub, including the thru axle, you'll need two new endcaps and a new thru axle. Check with cube on spares availability first.
 
Ok looking at pics. You should have removed the end cap with all the writing then screwed it out with the other one. But you've stripped both of them so you're f-ed.

Hacksaw time.
 
The wheel model number is Shimano HB-MT400-B, although the Shimano site only shows it with a lever rather than hex key fitting.
 
sq225917 said:
Chances are if you've not removed it in a long time that the anodizing has worn off the thru axle where it meets the inner race on your cartridge bearing and the two are now nicely 'galled' together.

My daily driver did this pre xmas despite regular wheel removal and greasing. Just took a couple of wet rides and lazy storage without drying the bike.

Assuming you've not missed a simple removal trick your best bet is to hacksaw through the end caps on either side of the hub, including the thru axle, you'll need two new endcaps and a new thru axle. Check with cube on spares availability first.
Click to expand...
I'd rather replace the fork to something less stupid than this. First bike ever where I can't get the bloody front wheel off!
 
Cliff, the wheel model is unimportant, it's a thru axle, it's just a plain metal shaft on the outside in this case. The axle is specific to the fork, not the wheel.

Either way rich you need to cut the wheel out first, unless you intend on buying new wheel and fork.

You could try supporting the end of the fork leg and then hammering the shaft through from the other side. But there's no poitn just trying to force the axle through unless you support the opposite leg, all you'll do is flex the other leg otherwise. With the end caps removed the wheel will wobble in the fork, don't mistake this for being loose, it's just the axle play in the bearings when they aren't side loaded, multiplied by the distance from bearing to rim.

Drift it out, or cut it off.
 
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