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Help with getting photos to 'pop'

andyoz

andyoz

pfm Member
I'm starting to get some nice images out of my x100.

I want to get some printed up in larger sizes and always wonder if the images could be better with some post processing. The problem is I just don't have the time to learn the tricks of the trade. So far, all I've been doing is slight sharpening and contrast tweaks using Gimp 2.

Is there any services available where people do this for a fee. Maybe someone here would be interested? A kind forum member did one for me and the changes made a good image... really good IMO and something I want to hang in the house.

Note that I have always shot in jpeg. One reason is many of the shots are children portraits and I need minimum procesding delay between shots.
 
I'm by no means an expert but have completely immersed myself in PP over the past year or so. Mainly in Lightroom but techniques are transferable to all PP software, whether it be dodging and burning, curves etc.

I've never used Gimp but it doesn't strike me as being the most user friendly piece of software. I don't mind giving you some tips or even looking over a few images, assuming they're Raw files. I don't know of any service that provides post processing. Actually that sounds like a nice little business side line!

Many of the shots in my Flickr stream are with the X100. Wonderful camera. I got mine in August.
 
Hi, your photos on Flikr definitely POP...

I've made the mistake of only shooting in Jpeg but experimented today with Jpeg + RAW and processing time between shots isn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Did you see the sunset image I posted on PAW thread. If I emailed that Jpeg, would be interested in what you think.

I would be interested in a thread where people show their before and after PP shots.
 
This is the image...is that what you mean by link?

2013-12-22_0133-1_zpsb631fed4.jpg
 
This may sound counter intuitive but if you're mainly a JPEG shooter then you get a great benefit by shooting Raw on the X100 even if you don't PP on a computer. The built in Raw post processing function. So long as you shoot Raw or Raw+JPEG you can render as many JPEGs as you like from the Raw. This gives you the ability to do some basic post processing in camera, allowing you to tweak exposure, highlights, film simulation, shadows, sharpening etc. It's no Lightroom but it's a wonderful and underused feature of X series cameras. Apologies if you're already aware of this.

This link explains it very well and is specific to Fuji X series cameras Raw for JPEG shooters

You may find this link handy Show us your Raw conversions, before and after

Did you shoot the sunset in Raw as well as JPEG? It looks as though Photobucket has employed some fairly heavy compression on that pic. Nice photo.



andyoz said:
Hi, your photos on Flikr definitely POP...

I've made the mistake of only shooting in Jpeg but experimented today with Jpeg + RAW and processing time between shots isn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Did you see the sunset image I posted on PAW thread. If I emailed that Jpeg, would be interested in what you think.

I would be interested in a thread where people show their before and after PP shots.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks. I didn't know that and will start using RAW as I'm often undecided which film simulation to use. On my trip to Oz the x100 was overexposing images due to my settings/inexperience and RAW would have been handy.

That photo was only in Jpeg...I want to get it printed to lift the spirits during UK winter
 
Get the best out of the camera first IMO.

a) use up to ISO400ish
b) don't use the dynamic range enhancer
c) expose as correctly as time will allow, understand your histogram
d) don't use f2 unless you need to, files are a bit flat at f2 IME
e) use a lens hood, don't use a protection filter
f) use RAW, use standard film mode IMO, but this wont affect your RAW's anyway


J
 
I always shot in RAW and jpeg with the X100. The RAW files responded very well in Lightroom. I always took a bit of care with the histogram but was always impressed with the dynamic range on the X100. A lovely tool to use day in/day out and capable of great results.
 
Agree with all of that. But I'm guessing you're not recommending using DR settings if shooting Raw as it results in underexposed Raw files? But if you're a JPEG shooter only with no intention of shooting Raw I'd definitely use Auto DR, making sure ISO is set to Auto so Auto DR can access ISO 400 and 800 needed for DR 200 and DR 400 as needed. Works brilliantly. I don't use it as I shoot RAW but I used it a lot when I first got the camera.

Also I'm not afraid to let the ISO go up to 3200 if needed, post processing that Raw of course! I guess the bottom line in all of this is shoot Raw and take the time to learn a little about post processing if you want the absolute maximum from your camera.

Julian H said:
Get the best out of the camera first IMO.

a) use up to ISO400ish
b) don't use the dynamic range enhancer
c) expose as correctly as time will allow, understand your histogram
d) don't use f2 unless you need to, files are a bit flat at f2 IME
e) use a lens hood, don't use a protection filter
f) use RAW, use standard film mode IMO, but this wont affect your RAW's anyway


J
Click to expand...
 
chipbutty said:
Agree with all of that. But I'm guessing you're not recommending using DR settings if shooting Raw as it results in underexposed Raw files? But if you're a JPEG shooter only with no intention of shooting Raw I'd definitely use Auto DR, making sure ISO is set to Auto so Auto DR can access ISO 400 and 800 needed for DR 200 and DR 400 as needed. Works brilliantly. I don't use it as I shoot RAW but I used it a lot when I first got the camera.

Also I'm not afraid to let the ISO go up to 3200 if needed, post processing that Raw of course! I guess the bottom line in all of this is shoot Raw and take the time to learn a little about post processing if you want the absolute maximum from your camera.
Click to expand...

For jpeg shooting what you say makes sense but to get the best "pop" out of camera I believe my technique works. As you say, DR enhancement will underexpose and lighten. This reduces pop IMO.
I am not a fan of PP, preferring as little as possible. Thats where my post comes from. Not because I think PP is bad just i dont like sitting in front of my computer doing it for long and also I am an old skool film man at heart! :)

Cheers, J
 
Of course it is more fun and cheaper to do it yourself. But any good, professional laboratory that prints from digital image files will provide the service you need. (To find one you might ask around where architects go to have their photos done.) At least they do in Italy and in Israel. Sometimes, in my experience, if you are spending a lot of money on large prints they may do this free of charge. Usually they have you sit next to them and ask you what you want done.
 
One of the best pieces of post processing software I've used in terms of speed and most importantly quality of output is RPP. I know it's a favourite with film shooters. It was designed by two film shooters. I generally use it with my X100 as the files just look superior to Lightroom. It's free (you can donate to unlock batch processing), no frills with regular updates.

If anyone wants to try it don't be put off by the interface. Marvellous bit of software. Anyway I'm getting off topic :D

RAW PHOTO PROCESSOR (RPP)

RPP for beginners

Julian H said:
For jpeg shooting what you say makes sense but to get the best "pop" out of camera I believe my technique works. As you say, DR enhancement will underexpose and lighten. This reduces pop IMO.
I am not a fan of PP, preferring as little as possible. Thats where my post comes from. Not because I think PP is bad just i dont like sitting in front of my computer doing it for long and also I am an old skool film man at heart! :)

Cheers, J
Click to expand...
 
No RAW on my cameras so its Jpeg only

I find the Nikon View 2 & Myfinepix editor to be quite handy (both came bundled with cameras) often just using the optimisation function

both are simple and worth cutting your teeth on
 
andyoz said:
The problem is I just don't have the time to learn the tricks of the trade. So far, all I've been doing is slight sharpening and contrast tweaks using Gimp 2.
Click to expand...

Don't assume all photography / graphics programs are as complex or impenetrable as GIMP. It's wrong to knock GIMP as it's a great project that provides some real power for free, but user-friendly it isn't. My advice would be to buy something like Aperture (or I assume Lightroom or Photoshop Elements, though I've not used either) and spend just a little time learning how to use the 'levels' and 'curves' features. It takes no time to learn, e.g. you'll understand 'levels' in Aperture (and any similar program) under five minutes here:


I suspect that may be all you need for the required 'pop'.
 
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OK, I'm going to buy some PP software. Light room seems popular on here for processing x100 RAW images. Are there various options to buy then or do I just go online and get a 'Lightroom' license?

I thought I was just being thick not understanding Gimp
 
Tony is right. Getting your photos to pop really isn't that difficult and is one of the first things that happens naturally as you start to adjust very basic settings. You need never stray from the Basic panel in something like Lightroom. Just adjust the sliders and trust your eye. Lightroom 5 now has a wonderful new addition called the Radial Filter. I call it the Pop Filter :)

If you go to YouTube and enter Lightroom Pop or Aperture Pop you will get dozens of videos like this.

 
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You can download a 30 day trial of Lightroom 5 I have a Mac and I'm an Apple fan but have never used Aperture. It was a conscious decision. I'm sure Aperture is great but Apple do seem to have taken their eye off the ball and Adobe have stolen a march on them with Lightroom. Especially in the past eighteen months. But either will do the basic stuff well, including pop!

Whatever you buy take your time with it, learn, and I can guarantee that you will soon start to get very good results. Your images will start to look better and better the more experienced you get. The beauty of shooting Raw is you can go back and process old photos with your new found knowledge. I do that all the time.

Of course the other advantage that shouldn't be overlooked is the excellent cataloguing and organisational facilities. I process 50% of my photos in Lightroom and the rest in RPP and Iridient but every single photo is imported into Lightroom as I let Lightroom organise them for me.

andyoz said:
OK, I'm going to buy some PP software. Light room seems popular on here for processing x100 RAW images. Are there various options to buy then or do I just go online and get a 'Lightroom' license?

I thought I was just being thick not understanding Gimp
Click to expand...
 
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