Avondale Repairs?
- Thread starter Marvt74
- Start date
Eyebroughty
JohnC
Hi,
How old is it and is it under warranty?
How do you know that it was the amp that blew the speakers?
Would it not be wise to wait until Les is back from holiday and ask his advice, after all he designed and built the S100 so he will know how to repair them and what may have been the issue.
Giving it to anyone else you may invalidate any warranty you may have on it.
My advice is just wait until they come back.
Cheers
John
How old is it and is it under warranty?
How do you know that it was the amp that blew the speakers?
Would it not be wise to wait until Les is back from holiday and ask his advice, after all he designed and built the S100 so he will know how to repair them and what may have been the issue.
Giving it to anyone else you may invalidate any warranty you may have on it.
My advice is just wait until they come back.
Cheers
John
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
I could do it for you but I'm pretty busy my self so I could not drop everything as it were..... if it's going to be late July before Les is back then it may be quicker to come to me but if he's going to be back early July I couldn't be any quicker at the moment.
2 many boxes
pfm Member
Shock horror - insurance policy doesn't cover what you expect it to
You could take it in to your nearest Naim dealer
I've had an A260Z go faulty when the earth on one of the input channels came loose. When I turned it on it made a truly horrible shrieking noise.
This burnt out my tweeters and also meant that substantial repairs were needed to the amp boards, unfortunately not under warranty
Matt wheeler
Member
Hi chaps
Same here, blown left tweeter when I happened to touch phono leads that came from
Grad 1 to S 101, I have just put the 1 remaining speaker back in and put a set of old
Cheapo phonos on and the problem seems to have gone, only get feed back if I take out
A lead from the S101 and plug it back in, I know what your thinking , don't take it out,
But I just had to try it, any body else had probs with phono leads,
Same here, blown left tweeter when I happened to touch phono leads that came from
Grad 1 to S 101, I have just put the 1 remaining speaker back in and put a set of old
Cheapo phonos on and the problem seems to have gone, only get feed back if I take out
A lead from the S101 and plug it back in, I know what your thinking , don't take it out,
But I just had to try it, any body else had probs with phono leads,
Hi Marv
Sorry to here about your problem,you could send Les an e-mail,e may reply,or let Mark (Witchhat) have a look,he knows his stuff.
Regards
Steve
MJS
Technical Tinkerer
Thanks guys.
Beware that the biggest problem with phono plugs is the fact that they make the signal connection before the earth. As many of you (and I) have found out this leads to huge amounts of unreferenced signal getting into the amp and causing some very nasty output capable of frying speakers.
Beware that the biggest problem with phono plugs is the fact that they make the signal connection before the earth. As many of you (and I) have found out this leads to huge amounts of unreferenced signal getting into the amp and causing some very nasty output capable of frying speakers.
ultrawomble
Sith Lord
TURN IT OFF. I am not being clever. I have blown one channel of my amplifier in the past. In my case I was honest, phoned up Avondale and the channel was repaired by return of post. (I was able to send the board rather than the whole amp.) The cost was very low. I always get the feeling from Les that he would like the opportunity to sort issues.
having said that if you are desperate for music there are a couple of excellent companies around who will sort you out. Witches hat are avondale dealers are far as I know.
just remember with high power amplifiers which are directly connected, the only thing that is protecting your speakers from 40-80 volts is a teeny bit of semiconductor.
An alternative is to fit a speaker protection circuit which may or may not cope with fault conditions and may or may not affect the sound quality.
having said that if you are desperate for music there are a couple of excellent companies around who will sort you out. Witches hat are avondale dealers are far as I know.
just remember with high power amplifiers which are directly connected, the only thing that is protecting your speakers from 40-80 volts is a teeny bit of semiconductor.
An alternative is to fit a speaker protection circuit which may or may not cope with fault conditions and may or may not affect the sound quality.
Gaius
pfm Member
Indeed, this is what I do.
OP, I'm sure Les will sort this out for you with no drama.
If however you need it done asap, Mark at Witchhat is your man, done great work for me and is conversant in Avondale as well as Naim.
All the best with it.
That's why Naim use DIN
I had the same issue with a DIN plug !!!
I had chance, since only the noise was horrible not the result ! No harm to my SBLs ...
My (mod)-NAP160 does not need more than 5 minutes (if any) to "warm-up", so I switch it off if I happen to change anything !
337alant
Negatively Biased
Malcolm and mudlarks advice is without doubt the wise choise Switch it off just make sure you wait for the power supply caps to drain before doing anything first, a cap 6 still packs a mighty punch and is still capable of blowing an amp output channel or a tweeter in the right circumstanses
The vellamen speaker protection kits are good and very fast at detecting DC dont know if it would stop that screech from touching the phono signal though?.
I dont allways switch off but I allway's change the selecter switch to a different or unused source and turn vol down to zero before unplugging a phono, im thinking of changing to all XLR TBH
Plenty of guys in the DIY room who could also check it over and fix it as well if you ask nicely
Alan
The vellamen speaker protection kits are good and very fast at detecting DC dont know if it would stop that screech from touching the phono signal though?.
I dont allways switch off but I allway's change the selecter switch to a different or unused source and turn vol down to zero before unplugging a phono, im thinking of changing to all XLR TBH
Plenty of guys in the DIY room who could also check it over and fix it as well if you ask nicely
Alan
Darth Vader
From the Dark Side
I am surprised why so many speakers don't have protection from a fuse. Mine do and when I asked about removing them was told that a flash of lightening would then take out the drivers. BTW there doesn't necessarily have to be a thunderstorm for a flash of lightening to occur.
Powering down is a must when making any adjustments to HiFi kit. My amps can deliver 150A peak into 1 Ohm and thats 22.5KW!!! That makes me think about 10 times before making any changes.........
Cheers,
DV
PS when I had a piece of Avondale kit go belly up and outside of warranty Les was most apologetic and repaired and posted back FOC. Service is second to none. I hope Les is OK as its unusual for him to take such a long break.
Powering down is a must when making any adjustments to HiFi kit. My amps can deliver 150A peak into 1 Ohm and thats 22.5KW!!! That makes me think about 10 times before making any changes.........
Cheers,
DV
PS when I had a piece of Avondale kit go belly up and outside of warranty Les was most apologetic and repaired and posted back FOC. Service is second to none. I hope Les is OK as its unusual for him to take such a long break.
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
A fuse will offer little or no protection against a flash of lightening.
Fuses are also a problem when it comes to speaker overload protection. They generate a considerable amount of distortion if of a low enough rating to have any chance of protecting the drive unit. Try bypassing the fuse and you should hear a major improvement to the sound. Especially if the fuse is protecting both drive units.
Units such as the Vellemen module are great as a last line of protection against an amp that has "gone DC" (only solid state amps will fail like this).
Some amps have just this type of protection built into them but it is often the audiophile models that omit it in the name of fidelity as it does involve the output of the amp passing through relay contacts.