Recent content by peranders

The are called Wago 256-402 but I recommend that you let it be. Desoldering your terminals from a 140 um copper pcb requires the right tools so you won't get any damages.

This was a very nice installation.

I have so please get in touch with me.

Pcb's are arriving soon but it's not too late to sigh up for a couple more.

Personally I use a 135 W soldering iron turned up to 400 deg C and I have to heat up for quite some time but for those who don't own a big iron you can use two smaller ones at the same time.

I will go ahead with the group buy within a week or two.

The limitation is the current through the filter. The DCT03 (mentioned here) has 12 A capacity through the bypass diodes and the caps themselves can handle approx. 30 amps.

Over at diyaudio.com jackinnj did some measurements with and without the pre-regulator and the result was a bit increased output impedance when using the pre-regulator. At the moment I can't find any reference for my statements.

I don't understand, what is the problem? Lead free solder has a higher melting point but isn't this a case of too weak soldering iron? I have no problems what so ever.

I recommend that you buy a replacement cable. 10-15 EUR.

You can use any voltage reference as long as the you are within the common mode limits for the used opamp. I use for instance both LM431 and LM329 on the same pcb. I have a dual footprint. When I want 3.3 volts I use the LM431 set to 2.5 V and the gain is set to 1.32.

You have to check first if all parts withstand cleaning. Untight relays could be a problem. Most modern parts, especially for surface mounting can withstand cleaning.

My method is nowadays plain denatured ethanol (before propanol) and a stiff toothbrush and rinsing i water. After that some "Yes" washing-up liquid and rinse with water. Sometimes I do it twice if needed.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/107344-lme49720-vs-lm4562.html#post1475129 LM4562 = LME49720 same chip with two names.

It seems to have red LED's but if all LED's are black I'll suspect first a bad soldering joint. Try to go over solder points which the display is involved in.