Recent content by Mark65

Think we need to ascertain if the Velleman is showing a red led when the fault occurs which would point towards a DC offset issue Edit:- Just read the latest post measure from the output terminal on the amp module, the speaker terminals will be isolated under a fault condition

Yes, that’s a horrible design as well, the button sticks fully in half the time requiring a second press it release it

Is it a type 47 relay ? the /7 may relate to the working voltage of the coil

Thank you for the link MJS, that’s perfect

Hi fellow pink fishers, Please could any kind soul help me out with with the BOM’s for the NJ321 and NJ322 and a schematic for the NJ321 I have a schematic for the NJ322 I did have the information but was somehow lost along the way Also does anyone have a part number for the gold connectors as...

The one time that I have experienced smoke was from the 0R22 resistors In my case the amplifier was oscillating due to a poor earth connection in the RCA lead that I was using for testing

For what it’s worth, I recently came from Avondale VBE and NCC220 to NCC300 and the difference is a major step Don’t think that the VBE would add anything to be honest If you are in contact with Les I’d ask for his thoughts The onboard regulators are more advanced than the VBE Mark

Hi, Wondering what arm you have on your LP12. Most I have seen have 4 pins up inside the headshell where it meets the arm tube, use the short wires that you have and swap the faulty wire, fine nose pliers are useful for this. Of course it’s possible that you have an arm that has the wires...

Had an issue with my Hub 6 which proved to be a bad PSU. Wondering how many people have swapped the router but keep the old PSU in place. Check the rating of the existing PSU, probably 12 volts @ 1.5 amps. If you have another spare PSU (maybe from an external Hard drive enclosure or similar) it...

A metal case and a 24v AC transformer, could be a preamp PSU in the making As you say the MK plug is worth the pound paid :)

There was a thread here a few days ago about the use of a bucking transformer. Wondering if you could use one here to calm things down a little?

Putting Tr5 on the heatsink with the output devices for the NCC200 does work. This was was done on the Avondale NCC200 v1.5. I converted a pair of NCC200 v1.4 boards by moving Tr5 to the output heatsink using flying leads and run them at 120mA the extra heat generated must be adequately managed...

Here’s the Farnell code for the input cap that I’m currently using (1413762). For feedback it’s (1187290). These two give a balance that suits me. I don’t recall spending £17 on the feedback cap however so best shop around Mark

Yes, it’s always best to leave it running for a week to let it settle down before passing any judgement. I’m personally not a fan if the BC128 as the input cap, for me things really started to sing when I changed to film. For feedback I’m using a tantalum and have so far not been tempted to try...

Probably best not to run the original Naim amp boards with the HCR200 if they have been set to the higher Avondale voltages If you are confident in adjusting the HCR200’s to the lower Naim voltages (40v I believe) then do just that, you can return to the higher voltages when the NCC220’s return...