Recent content by Loz828

Hahahaha - I can vouch for that, most of the time getting the tray alignment just right is more by luck than judgment.

Try looking at Kyocera/AVX TAP107K006, much cheaper and the same specs as the Kemet T356 - lots of places seem to be out of stock, but try this link for starters https://ca.rs-online.com/product/avx/tap107k006scs/70195897/

Craig is right - use a DVM to be sure, cut tie wraps and follow wires. You can ask Naim IF the xfmr is changeable 120/240, they probably won't tell you how to do it, but they should answer - yes it can be rewired, or no you need a new xfmr.

I doubt you are slowly burning something out, if you got it wrong it either wouldn't work at all, go fizz bang, or blow fuses. Uniti Atom - I can't answer this for certain because I haven't seen any of the "new" uniti range. However I think at least some of them have transformers with single...

Something worth trying that's cheaper than a new puck just to see if it's the puck or not - Get some thin double sided tape (like selotape/scotch tape thin) and stick some on the spindle, make sure the tape is smooth and even, press the CD onto it and also place the puck. Do you still hear the...

I know quite a bit about these after repairing both my olive XPS and years later my olive CDX. So as MJS said tell us what your specific symptoms are and people might be able to help. Taking the swing out drawer apart to access the transport/laser, and dismantling the Philips VAM1205 transport...

I'm 100% with you on this bit!!!

+1 for Linn Saras, I've got 4 pairs now, see if you can find a pair of Sara9s' and try them out, I run 2 pairs from Naim UnitiQutes in my kitchen and bedroom and they behave really well, lot's of tight bass punch, you'll need a hefty bookshelf though, they're pretty heavy!!

All pre-amp outs using a 4 pin DIN that I have ever seen Naim employ are wired like the picture from the SuperNait that you posted. As has been said already NC means Not Connected because the single -ve output is used for both L&R channels.

I always use the tightest tolerance (or best matched etc) best quality components I can get (within reason of course) - and that goes for everything, because.......well they are expensive amps. I know in a lot of places it doesn't really matter but I like to know that for the marginal extra...

Hahahaha - nice one.

I've seen the same problem on 250s/135s etc, and yes agree with everyone else - feedback caps. That being said, if you are in this deep already you might as well replace ALL the tantalum and electrolytic caps on both regulator and amp boards and the main reservoir caps, there is lots of...

Good stuff - I think you've got the idea now, yes just cut the zip ties to open up the wiring loom and you have found where the 2 primaries are linked in series for 240VAC, that splice in the loom needs to be cut and then the 2 wires wired onto the switch. Naim are really neat with their...

I really don't mean to be rude or disparaging, but if you have to ask what L & N refer to then perhaps you would do better to let someone else do it. It's a pretty simple change but going from 240V to 120V means you have to solder 2 transformer primary wires to the power switch terminals and it...

Yup that style are a very good economical option, easier to use than a separate iron and manual solder sucker. I always add a bit of solder first while lifting the component leg straight with an iron and let it cool, then apply the desoldering pump over the now upright leg until the solder...