Recent content by jpk

Today I dismantled the lid mechanism, gave it a very basic clean, adjusted the spring loading of the lid and made the micro switch a bit more responsiv by slightly bending it's lever - after that it seems the CDi is finally behaving well. I adjusted the 7segment display a tiny bit less bright...

...and after that warm water rinse...?

Axis/Akito/K5 -> LP12/Geddon/Aro/Troika -> DPS/Aro/Koetsu Onyx

OK. May I ask to please have a look at this video and let me know if the behaviour of the lens after opening the lid is normal...?

The servo board has 4 regulators (317/337) under the PCB...

First step completed: I did a complete recap. The BOM: Here are some pictures of the PCBs after recap. The analog board: Digital board: The other side: The servo board: Front panel and logo/infrared PCBs: Note: there is a through hole capacitor fitted to the logo PCB...

I take it as a huge compliment :) The pics are after recap. The main caps are 4pin and don't fit the PCB holes, so I wired them in with thick copper wire and using hot glue as spacer. Hence their minus markings do not point exactly in line. The only other deviation is the top most SMD cap in...

Here are some pictures... The main PCB: The digital board: Front panel PCB: 3.5mm in/out PCB and logo/infrared PCB:

OK, completed recap, replaced the main caps and all SMD electrolytic caps (but not the tants), this is the BOM of what I did: I found some schematics online that were useful: The amp sounds way better now! I fogot to check bias before recap, now it reads 5mV across both emitter resistors...

Thanks for the input, I will install a heat sink to the DAC chip as soon as I receive my thermal glue :-) I noticed some strange behaviour of the door switch, please let me know if there is any reason to worry. I will try to show what I mean with the following 3 videos: This video shows my CDi...

Thanks a lot for the input! I have heatsinks of the correct size, but how do I fix them to the chip? And does the SAA7220 also benefit from a heatsink? It runs quite warm. Speaking of heat: the two 3pin regulators on the main PCB that have heatsinks run hot, I read some 67 degrees C on my cheap...

I recently got a used Weller WMD-1 and it works great. I chose Weller because it's compatible with my existing soldering gear...

Thanks for the information! I double checked everything, didn't find anything, so I removed the logo LED daughter board and did a reflow of all solder joints (on all PCBs) including the SMD chips. Now the machine runs flicker free. The Naim logo indeed indicates mute condition as stated in these...

I got a CDI for a good price and grabbed it since it has a CDM4. I already had repaired a CDM4 based player, so knew how to to swap out a dead laser etc. The CDI had no fault but needed recap. I changed all lytics and tants and created this BOM: Here is the BOM in "shopping cart mode": In...

You could also try Vishay 118 AHT, they have longer service life than 031 AS series...