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Linn K5 & K9 confusion

Just bought an AT95ML.. doing so going on the vague assumption thus; the component bits made in japan, shipped over ( seems viable being so small) & assembled in prc. I can't bear to think otherwise!

If it doesn't suit me, or I can't do the prc thing, I could sell on here maybe with very low hours on.

If anyone knows what type of polystyrene 100pf ( never used these before) to source?

Thanks alot, Capt
 
Just bought an AT95ML.. doing so going on the vague assumption thus; the component bits made in japan, shipped over ( seems viable being so small) & assembled in prc. I can't bear to think otherwise!

If it doesn't suit me, or I can't do the prc thing, I could sell on here maybe with very low hours on.

If anyone knows what type of polystyrene 100pf ( never used these before) to source?

Thanks alot, Capt
I'd choose a smaller value actually. I have a VM95ML (wonderful cartridge btw) & find it a bit bright into the 100pF of my phono stage. If it were an easy swap (sadly it isn't) I'd replace the caps with 50pF ones.
 
I'd choose a smaller value actually. I have a VM95ML (wonderful cartridge btw) & find it a bit bright into the 100pF of my phono stage. If it were an easy swap (sadly it isn't) I'd replace the caps with 50pF ones.

Hi Durmbo, very useful information thank you. Actually reading back, your prior post is becoming clearer now too.. after my einstein'sbath (when I wasn't thinking of bab's bazookas not once).

Before daytonas photo, I didn't even know these boxes had knob or buttons to actually change a capacitor value, as I've never had any need for an additional 'phono box'. I always thought these things function was solely a 'splitter' for choice of MM, or MC. Well well I'm learning a heap on this thread, that I stole from someone else!
 
Before daytonas photo, I didn't even know these boxes had knob or buttons to actually change a capacitor value, as I've never had any need for an additional 'phono box'. I always thought these things function was solely a 'splitter' for choice of MM, or MC. Well well I'm learning a heap on this thread, that I stole from someone else!
Very few phono stages have selectable loading & capacitance for MM, & you pay for the privilege.
 
Very few phono stages have selectable loading & capacitance for MM, & you pay for the privilege.
300 odd quid
Balanced audiophile phono stage

• NEW 5-pin XLR balanced input
• NEW balanced XLR outputs
• NEW fully symmetrical & discrete gain stage
• NEW easy settings adjustment on the faceplate
• MM & MC capable
• Dual mono design
• Semi-passive RIAA equalization
• Superior low noise / low distortion
• Aluminium casing protects against interference
• Made in Europe
PhonoBoxS3B-11.jpg
 
Crikey, & mine's 2 small £40 boards I resolder a different small cap in, without the need for an additional box, that's actually doing not very much. That's not two boxes then, is it? Next it'll be another power supply box for one of them too!
 
Back in the 1970's many used to say the same about Japanese hifi.

Nakamichi? All those huge cool receivers? But japanese hifi took off in the 70's. Uber snobs maybe said so, but not sensible folks.

Japanese engineering & manufacturing & almost the finest examples being their cartridges & stylus.. have a seriously good reputation with a fastidiously precise legacy. Such a shame of AT to outsource the mfr to china which has the very antithesis of this. I just hope to god the diamonds aren't ground there or bonding them onto the cantilevers.
 
AT makes cartridges , headphones & microphones in PRC for years. Market demands lower & lower prices each year
The average salary in Japan is 6,180,000 Japanese Yen or 53,583 USD per year in 2021
The average salary in China is 6,833 USD


Min wage in Denmark DKK110 ($18) per hour. .Denmark's yearly minimum wage is $44,252
Ortofon can still offer a cartridge for £29.99 you do not always have to outsource to PRC

EU wages €12 per hour €24,960 Project are 100% made in the EU
 
So it makes no difference to you, if for example, your very hi-end English made turntable was made in china instead?No qulams that the quality might not be as good No concern over the human rights within china No concern over the authoritarian state ruled by a dictator
 
Min wage in Denmark DKK110 ($18) per hour. .Denmark's yearly minimum wage is $44,252
Ortofon can still offer a cartridge for £29.99 you do not always have to outsource to PRC

EU wages €12 per hour €24,960 Project are 100% made in the EU
 
I have a Chinese designed and built pre-amp, which is full of Japanese Relays.

Quality.

518T5lt-kfL._AC_.jpg


I have concerns about what the US gets up to but own an American amplifier.
 
[Ok (exactly as expected) this will innevitably become simply a series of disagreements with me, regardless of my sentiment having any merit. Such is the way with forums; it's more incumbent upon (identities hidden) people to disagree, than agree; to form a consensus (against 1 person) is the gradual idea." Forum-sociology ".]

Anyway thanks CraigB, & Daytona for your help- & patience: I'll add an update on my ML cartridge adventure.

If anyone does have a couple of 50pf poly whatnots I could buy from them, I'd be grateful. Thx Capt
 
@Craig B Just dug out some "100 J" polystyrenes in fact lurking here.. would these do?

I think the 100 = pf, & the J demotes tolerance. If anyone on DIY could confirm?

Thanks, Capt
 
Hello to @The Captain,

Seems I've fallen a bit behind here.

Yes, those caps will work fine. 'J' is indeed tolerance and is ±5% in this case. There is no point in going lower tolerance as these aren't signal handling components.

As to @Durmbo's suggestion of choosing a smaller capacitance value than 100pF, there is really only one way to know for sure what the end result might be like with your gear to your ear.

On the technical side, 50pF internal, when combined with the presumed to be original wiring of your 774 tonearm, would put the total at 175pF, well within A-T's recommended 100 - 200pF.

Regardless, either choice will sound far more palatable than an A-T MM into standard Naim 'N' cards.
 
Hello to @The Captain,

Seems I've fallen a bit behind here.

Yes, those caps will work fine. 'J' is indeed tolerance and is ±5% in this case. There is no point in going lower tolerance as these aren't signal handling components.

As to @Durmbo's suggestion of choosing a smaller capacitance value than 100pF, there is really only one way to know for sure what the end result might be like with your gear to your ear.

On the technical side, 50pF internal, when combined with the presumed to be original wiring of your 774 tonearm, would put the total at 175pF, well within A-T's recommended 100 - 200pF.

Regardless, either choice will sound far more palatable than an A-T MM into standard Naim 'N' cards.

Hi Craig, great I'm sort of set for a new venture then. 225pf then total if I put these caps in.

So as an idiot's rule of thumb as it were, I could "tweak" the brightness upward, by upping this cap. I think that's right. Useful if I'm getting a wee bit of edge with these 100pf's still, I could nip a bit off by putting in 50pf's. I guess that's the lowest value polystyrene cap.

I did litz-rewire my 774 mind you.. I've no idea what the pf value is now, versus the 125pf originally. But perhaps this is nit-picking a bit. Will update with the new set up. Exciting this, rarely do I get the luxury of a new hifi venture, albeit a tiddler compared to most folks' hifi ventures on pfm.
 
Hi Craig, great I'm sort of set for a new venture then. 225pf then total if I put these caps in.

So as an idiot's rule of thumb as it were, I could "tweak" the brightness upward, by upping this cap. I think that's right. Useful if I'm getting a wee bit of edge with these 100pf's still, I could nip a bit off by putting in 50pf's. I guess that's the lowest value polystyrene cap.

I did litz-rewire my 774 mind you.. I've no idea what the pf value is now, versus the 125pf originally. But perhaps this is nit-picking a bit. Will update with the new set up. Exciting this, rarely do I get the luxury of a new hifi venture, albeit a tiddler compared to most folks' hifi ventures on pfm.
What I find exciting about these sorts of tweaking adventures is that the returns are real and tend to be very satisfying for minimal outlay. You'll know just how real should you try the new VM95ML into the existing 470pF before changing these out for the 100pF ones.

Looking forward to your update.
 
@The Captain,

I've just now fully caught up with the thread, and noticed that you've ordered an AT-VM95ML cartridge, not simply a VMN95ML replacement stylus to fit to your K5 cartridge body. Be aware that the VM95 cartridges have threaded inserts and are intended to have the mounting screws enter downward from above, whereas, your Mission 775 is likely to only accept cartridge mounting screws from below.

ISTR that some have found that the small Mission screws can be persuaded to fit up through the AT inserts, however, you'd have to keep the top of the cartridge tight to the bottom of the headshell block whilst fastening both screws in. Best to have the tube off the arm for this.


at-vm95ml_02.png
 
@The Captain,

I've just now fully caught up with the thread, and noticed that you've ordered an AT-VM95ML cartridge, not simply a VMN95ML replacement stylus to fit to your K5 cartridge body. Be aware that the VM95 cartridges have threaded inserts and are intended to have the mounting screws enter downward from above, whereas, your Mission 775 is likely to only accept cartridge mounting screws from below.

ISTR that some have found that the small Mission screws can be persuaded to fit up through the AT inserts, however, you'd have to keep the top of the cartridge tight to the bottom of the headshell block whilst fastening both screws in. Best to have the tube off the arm for this.


at-vm95ml_02.png

Oh dammit!! I hadn't thought of this. The only thing going through my mind was how much better it's going to be not having to do piddly nuts on the underside. Ffs.

Can you explain what you mean by 'persuaded' going the other way round? Thanks Capt
 


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