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Faulty Speaker. One side quieter and more muffled than the other. Amp fine.What could the issue be?

You can also 'partly blow' tweeters where they still work but with a massive low end suck out. I've had this with ATC scm100s and it took me a while to work out as the tweeter still made noise, just not the right noise.

Scanspeak may also just supply a new dome and foam cover. Pop the tweeter out and see if it has a scanspeak model number on the back. You might find proac have spares for sensible money, ATC were always reasonable for the vifa tweets they used.
 
You can also 'partly blow' tweeters where they still work but with a massive low end suck out. I've had this with ATC scm100s and it took me a while to work out as the tweeter still made noise, just not the right noise.

Scanspeak may also just supply a new dome and foam cover. Pop the tweeter out and see if it has a scanspeak model number on the back. You might find proac have spares for sensible money, ATC were always reasonable for the vifa tweets they used.

Indeed. Or sometimes just much reduced sensitivity.
 
I have two thoughts.

1. Is it possible to repair the blown tweeter using replacement tweeter voice coils?

2. If the answer to the above is no, is there any issue to getting a single tweeter to pair with the working one, or should I be getting two completely new matched tweeters?
 
Some you can buy a replacement dome/voicecoil assembly. You remove the faceplate and this assembly sandwiches between the motor/magnet and the faceplate. It should hVe lugs/pins to ensure proper alignment. Some tweeters as a sealed unit or they don't make replacement parts available to the general public. Best you can do us contact the UK distributor to see.
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I don't think you need to replace both, but considering they are going out of production, I would personally buy a pair and swap them both, then box up the old good one as a spare.
 
Some you can buy a replacement dome/voicecoil assembly. You remove the faceplate and this assembly sandwiches between the motor/magnet and the faceplate. It should hVe lugs/pins to ensure proper alignment. Some tweeters as a sealed unit or they don't make replacement parts available to the general public. Best you can do us contact the UK distributor to see.
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I don't think you need to replace both, but considering they are going out of production, I would personally buy a pair and swap them both, then box up the old good one as a spare.

I have heard word that these Scanspeak Tweeters are the kind that are not too hard to replace voice coils for. If that changes anything let me know. I'd say I'm quite nifty/dextrous with my hands when it comes to tiny repairs/threading thread through the eye of a needle.
 
Had a bit of time so cracked open the tweeter. I have a photo. But there's not really much information on the tweeter itself.

6z1npRq.jpg


Any clues on what this could be?

If we're going purely by aesthetics, it looks like a Scanspeak D2010.

I'll carry out the switch later this evening.
 
Also just to check, switching the working tweeter onto a dodgy crossover. Would that damage the working tweeter?
 
Also just to check, switching the working tweeter onto a dodgy crossover. Would that damage the working tweeter?

Extremely unlikely to be anything wrong with crossover. Short circuit series cap would be the worst but so long as you start at a very low volume and work up when it seems to sound OK all should be fine.
 
If it is a Scanspeak D2010 or similar then it will have ferro fluid inside - I have seen web reports of this drying out, can't remember what the effect of this is on sound but reduced output seems likely.

Very interested to see the conclusion of this as it may be able to fix my quiet speaker rather than just tweaking the balance.
 
@Arkless Electronics , @graham-r . Appreciate how you’re both going out of your way to kindly offer me your knowledge, considering I know so little and am coming off nothing.

little update. Maybe i’ve been using the multimeter wrong, but nothing has come up with the tweeter that isn’t functioning.
 
Okay. The working tweeter is a stable six ohm. The muffled tweeter’s ohms keep rising and rising.

i pulled off at 8.5 ohms.

is this confirmation enough that the muffled tweeter is blown? I say this because I do not have a jumper/biwire cables on hand to plug the speakers into my amplifier.
 
@Arkless Electronics , @graham-r . Appreciate how you’re both going out of your way to kindly offer me your knowledge, considering I know so little and am coming off nothing.

little update. Maybe i’ve been using the multimeter wrong, but nothing has come up with the tweeter that isn’t functioning.

Does the meter show zero Ohms or very near when the leads are shorted together? That shows the meter is working.
Open circuit is classic totally blown tweeter. Many crossover designs will put an inductor across the tweeter that could measure just a few Ohms so always best to desolder a wire from tweeter (careful!) before testing but if meter is good and there is really an open circuit then tweeter is toast.
 
Does the meter show zero Ohms or very near when the leads are shorted together? That shows the meter is working.
Open circuit is classic totally blown tweeter. Many crossover designs will put an inductor across the tweeter that could measure just a few Ohms so always best to desolder a wire from tweeter (careful!) before testing but if meter is good and there is really an open circuit then tweeter is toast.

So I switched the multimeter head to an alligator clip, and that got me stable readings. I was using the pin point clip to diagnose readings on a laptop battery last weekend, and only just figured I’d swap it out. Turns out the Think Engine chip was the broken component, so waiting for a shimmer if that to arrive from China before proceeding with repairs.

The broken tweeter exhibits rising resistance statting from zero and rising gradually to 8.5 ohms onwards. I didn’t want to see where it would stop, so I pulled it at 8.5 ohms. And the working one is stable 6-6.3 Ohms from start to finish.
 
Just seen update:rolleyes: 6 Ohm is about right for an "8 ohm" tweeter. If the other one quickly goes off scale then that is the series cap charging up and the tweeter has blown.
 


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