Bit of a cheek calling it a DIY turntable as I've neither the ability or tools to design such a device completely from scratch, this is more of a self assembly really from various parts with a small bit of input from me.
I've always fancied a go at one but didn't know how to tackle it for a first attempt, the simplest approach I settled on was to use a donor deck for some of the parts/design and go from there with any other ideas that sprang up along the way.
Donor was a fairly simple choice- I've always liked Regas from a design and engineering stand point, if not so much how they sound, which I'm convinced is mainly down to the arms as it has followed with other decks wearing an RB250/300 etc. So an arm change was a must at the very least.
A few months ago I happened to land on a 24v RP3 complete with external TTPSU at the right money, bonus as it also came with a Fono MM. By the time I'd stripped it and sold all the unwanted parts including bearing, platter, arm, sub platter and the Fono MM etc. the bits I did want hadn't cost me anything. I had a quick listen to it before stripping and was impressed with its silent operation and speed stability.
Whilst deciding on what to do I also picked up a Brinkmann 10.0 arm thanks to input from a fellow fishie whose judgment I trust based on previous suggestions.
I also stumbled across Ben Lamb at Fidelity Designs and his upgraded Rega parts and was impressed with the level of workmanship, so ordered one of his bearing, sub platter and acetal outer platter kits, for the level of quality his prices are too cheap, fantastic stuff.
So then, what to do. All decisions are based on nothing other than trying it out and what I could realistically achieve given a lack of tools and anything resembling a workshop, there is no R&D here
Plinth- the stock plinth is just chipboard, I decided on a relatively lightweight constrained layer damped affair based almost identically on the original Rega dimensions so I could retain the dust cover but I wanted something more substantial so I went with an 8mm layer of Valchromat and a layer of 12mm baltic birch giving roughly the same thickness as the original. I'm no expert on CLD so after some brief research I settled on using Green Glue as the viscoelastic component between them. I used the odd dab of wood glue to act as proper adhesive as I don't think the Green Glue is actually glue. No idea if it will work but it wasn't expensive to make so, trial and error etc.
I first knocked up a quick proof of concept with an offcut of MDF just to check all the dimensions/holes etc. Even though the Brinkmann is a longer arm there's isn't much in it and it all still fits in the same footprint.
With that done I set about gluing the valchromat and birch layers- this has actually had 3-4 weeks setting as I haven't had time until now to carry on with it- I decided to make it over size and cut it down afterwards, seemed the easiest thing to do. No table saw so all done with a Makita circ saw, I then ran the trim router around it to give it a decent finish, which was fun as I don't have any flush trim bits big enough so it was a case of making up a fence using the spirit level and clamps. I think I'm also going to knock all the corners off and slightly bevel all the sharp edges just to make it look less amateur. I'd kill for a workshop, working outdoors on gravel with tools scattered all over the shop is a ball ache.
pic share
Heart in mouth moment is drilling the three main holes- bearing, motor and tonearm, obviously not ideal using forstner bits in a hand drill but it's only 20mm depth and not too difficult with good bits, I laid the MDF prototype over the top just to double check I'd marked it out right and it looked good so through they went.
I then marked out underneath as I've got to freehand route the cavity for the motor, no room for error as there is only about 4.5mm of wood between going right through the top side so I'm going to do it in stages of probably 4-5 cuts. I had a test run on some scrap ply and noticed the router base was tipping when the edge went over the cavity so decided to knock up a wider base plate just to do that bit, unfortunately it started to rain so will hopefully go back and finish it off tomorrow.
After that it should just be a case of throwing it together and firing it up I reckon. Oh, I need ideas for feet if anyone has any? I could just use the Rega ones as a temp option but something nicer looking would be good.
I'm also unsure of putting any sort of finish on it? I'm assuming with Valchromat being similar to MDF that it won't take a finish? Should I slap something on the ply edge or leave it? No experience of finishing wood aside from painting.
I've always fancied a go at one but didn't know how to tackle it for a first attempt, the simplest approach I settled on was to use a donor deck for some of the parts/design and go from there with any other ideas that sprang up along the way.
Donor was a fairly simple choice- I've always liked Regas from a design and engineering stand point, if not so much how they sound, which I'm convinced is mainly down to the arms as it has followed with other decks wearing an RB250/300 etc. So an arm change was a must at the very least.
A few months ago I happened to land on a 24v RP3 complete with external TTPSU at the right money, bonus as it also came with a Fono MM. By the time I'd stripped it and sold all the unwanted parts including bearing, platter, arm, sub platter and the Fono MM etc. the bits I did want hadn't cost me anything. I had a quick listen to it before stripping and was impressed with its silent operation and speed stability.
Whilst deciding on what to do I also picked up a Brinkmann 10.0 arm thanks to input from a fellow fishie whose judgment I trust based on previous suggestions.
I also stumbled across Ben Lamb at Fidelity Designs and his upgraded Rega parts and was impressed with the level of workmanship, so ordered one of his bearing, sub platter and acetal outer platter kits, for the level of quality his prices are too cheap, fantastic stuff.
So then, what to do. All decisions are based on nothing other than trying it out and what I could realistically achieve given a lack of tools and anything resembling a workshop, there is no R&D here
Plinth- the stock plinth is just chipboard, I decided on a relatively lightweight constrained layer damped affair based almost identically on the original Rega dimensions so I could retain the dust cover but I wanted something more substantial so I went with an 8mm layer of Valchromat and a layer of 12mm baltic birch giving roughly the same thickness as the original. I'm no expert on CLD so after some brief research I settled on using Green Glue as the viscoelastic component between them. I used the odd dab of wood glue to act as proper adhesive as I don't think the Green Glue is actually glue. No idea if it will work but it wasn't expensive to make so, trial and error etc.
I first knocked up a quick proof of concept with an offcut of MDF just to check all the dimensions/holes etc. Even though the Brinkmann is a longer arm there's isn't much in it and it all still fits in the same footprint.
With that done I set about gluing the valchromat and birch layers- this has actually had 3-4 weeks setting as I haven't had time until now to carry on with it- I decided to make it over size and cut it down afterwards, seemed the easiest thing to do. No table saw so all done with a Makita circ saw, I then ran the trim router around it to give it a decent finish, which was fun as I don't have any flush trim bits big enough so it was a case of making up a fence using the spirit level and clamps. I think I'm also going to knock all the corners off and slightly bevel all the sharp edges just to make it look less amateur. I'd kill for a workshop, working outdoors on gravel with tools scattered all over the shop is a ball ache.
pic shareHeart in mouth moment is drilling the three main holes- bearing, motor and tonearm, obviously not ideal using forstner bits in a hand drill but it's only 20mm depth and not too difficult with good bits, I laid the MDF prototype over the top just to double check I'd marked it out right and it looked good so through they went.
I then marked out underneath as I've got to freehand route the cavity for the motor, no room for error as there is only about 4.5mm of wood between going right through the top side so I'm going to do it in stages of probably 4-5 cuts. I had a test run on some scrap ply and noticed the router base was tipping when the edge went over the cavity so decided to knock up a wider base plate just to do that bit, unfortunately it started to rain so will hopefully go back and finish it off tomorrow.
After that it should just be a case of throwing it together and firing it up I reckon. Oh, I need ideas for feet if anyone has any? I could just use the Rega ones as a temp option but something nicer looking would be good.
I'm also unsure of putting any sort of finish on it? I'm assuming with Valchromat being similar to MDF that it won't take a finish? Should I slap something on the ply edge or leave it? No experience of finishing wood aside from painting.
