Those look great - the mansfield ends up around 100l internally? I'd be interested to know what the tuning is for these, and what the port size/length works out as? They are give or take the same size as the cabinets i ended up building and the proportions although they felt very large when I first built them compared to modern speakers seem to work well domestically (ha ha, that's what i'm trying to tell myself).
Tannoys always full of surprises...
- Thread starter cooky1257
- Start date
cooky1257
pfm Member
Yes thereabouts. The Berkeleys are 95L, 2 Ports 7cm dia x 12 cm deep. tuning is 61 hz with 2 open 32 hz with just one.
say it as it is
pfm Member
Amazing work never fail to be amazed at the skills and talent displayed.
I wish I had the confidence and ability to do the same
I wish I had the confidence and ability to do the same
cooky1257
pfm Member
Yes it's waxed teak.
cooky1257
pfm Member
Since the Berkeleys are now finished and soon to be available in the classifieds I've finally got around to a long overdue job.
After seeing way too many cock-eyed or glue smudged DC dustcaps I've long preferred to DIY install them.
That said, it is the most butt clenching job you can do as it is so easy to smudge glue on the cone(;-)), really ruining the appearance of the drivers in these grill free times.
It's a job I've been putting off on my Balmorals for about 18 months....
Of particular difficulty/PITA are the mesh caps from the K series, they spring about as you handle/fit them, distorting their shape and once they have glue on them its a one shot placement. If you look at the pics I pretty much mask off most of the cone leaving only a very tight circle clear to accept a previously aligned dustcap dropping in with a handle made of tape..
My mouth actually went dry doing this today ;-) Once in place it's important to carefully remove the masking, the roll of low tack tape is the perfect size and weight to press the cap into place and thankfully end up spot on.
Final touch with these K's is fit the trim ring of foam and job is done ready to reinstall into my Balmorals.
After seeing way too many cock-eyed or glue smudged DC dustcaps I've long preferred to DIY install them.
That said, it is the most butt clenching job you can do as it is so easy to smudge glue on the cone(;-)), really ruining the appearance of the drivers in these grill free times.
It's a job I've been putting off on my Balmorals for about 18 months....
Of particular difficulty/PITA are the mesh caps from the K series, they spring about as you handle/fit them, distorting their shape and once they have glue on them its a one shot placement. If you look at the pics I pretty much mask off most of the cone leaving only a very tight circle clear to accept a previously aligned dustcap dropping in with a handle made of tape..
My mouth actually went dry doing this today ;-) Once in place it's important to carefully remove the masking, the roll of low tack tape is the perfect size and weight to press the cap into place and thankfully end up spot on.
Final touch with these K's is fit the trim ring of foam and job is done ready to reinstall into my Balmorals.
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a.palfreyman
pfm Member
That paint on that chair's looking a bit tatty....
cooky1257
pfm Member
With too many speakers in the house I am reluctantly prepping these recently re-acquired special order white Devons for sale, They've had a spanking new recones and returned lookingg fab.
I was about to fettle one of the hf drivers for a smoother response and closer match to the other driver in the pair....
I was about to fettle one of the hf drivers for a smoother response and closer match to the other driver in the pair....
cooky1257
pfm Member
Why, you may ask is this cab lying face down? Well in order to fettle the hf I need to remove the driver but it won't shift. Really hope someone hasn't over enthusiastically stuck it in place Linn/Naim style, I have no idea what they've used, if anything, double sided tape, mastic, sealant-anyone's guess but it will not shift, I've removed the crossover controls and tried to lever it out via the cut out but it is well and truly stuck.
You need access through the driver cut out to reach the crossover and terminal panel-plus it is so easy to damage these particle board baffles, this is very, very, annoying.
So yeah bang on bloody topic.
I shall leave it over night and see if gravity will shift it over time.
You need access through the driver cut out to reach the crossover and terminal panel-plus it is so easy to damage these particle board baffles, this is very, very, annoying.
So yeah bang on bloody topic.
I shall leave it over night and see if gravity will shift it over time.
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chiily
PFM Special Builder
They look just wonderful, very smart.With too many speakers in the house I am reluctantly prepping these recently re-acquired special order white Devons for sale, They've had a spanking new recones and returned lookingg fab.
I was about to fettle one of the hf drivers for a smoother response and closer match to the other driver in the pair....
What does a pair like that go for these days?
And where do they sit on the Tannoy hierarchy?
cooky1257
pfm Member
Hmm, seller has kindly offered a refund and he assures me no mastic or glue was used so that's a relief but I've a suspicion the slotted baskets may be slightly over size for the later non slotted basket cutout and if the driver has been installed by doing the bolts up in a tight fit they could be well and truly wedged in place.That being the case I may well need to perform open back panel surgery ....Tannoys, love 'em and hate 'em...
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cooky1257
pfm Member
After a good 10 hours face down and no movement I'm reluctantly not going to pursue this issue any further, it's pretty clear this is an interference fit-with my hand through the crossover hole I wasn't able to insert my thinnest voicecoil shim between the inside edge of the sub baffle cut out and the driver basket and so bar some major surgery to the enclosure these drivers are staying put, it's worth bearing in mind that any conventional 'big hammer' approaches are non starters as the driver can't take any shock without risking demagnetisation of the AlNiCo.
So I'm taking up the very decent offer from the seller to part refund.
So I'm taking up the very decent offer from the seller to part refund.
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cooky1257
pfm Member
Managed to release both drivers by using a hole saw, cutting a 125m dia hole in back panel and using some angled wedges and a large Trigger/F clamp inverted to force the driver(s) out.
FYI it's worth bearing in mind that the slotted HPD baskets are indeed a few mm wider behind the rim than later HPD chassis and so attention should be paid to opening up the baffle cut out to allow a bit of clearance if you are fitting these drivers into existing cabs, just torquing them down using the bolts may wedge them in or worse, distort the chassis .
Proper pain in the butt to put right but they'll be fine in a day or so..
FYI it's worth bearing in mind that the slotted HPD baskets are indeed a few mm wider behind the rim than later HPD chassis and so attention should be paid to opening up the baffle cut out to allow a bit of clearance if you are fitting these drivers into existing cabs, just torquing them down using the bolts may wedge them in or worse, distort the chassis .
Proper pain in the butt to put right but they'll be fine in a day or so..
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cooky1257
pfm Member
Elf n safety:
I'm noticing more and more Tannoy vintage drivers turning up with varying degrees of white powdery corrosion to the magnet bright-work/ top-plates- if it's cadmium it's toxic and accumulative over time. I've never abraded these surfaces in fear of contaminating the gap rather I've only ever treated any rusting to the steel under the coating so the possibility of prior inhalation isn't keeping me awake at night but still....
This is of concern though and I'm searching for some clarification as to wether these parts were cadmium plated. It's quite surprising to discover that the resins in wood, MDF and ply can cause the corrosion so a speaker enclosure isn't exactly a benign environment.
I'm hoping it's zinc plating.
ATC will no longer re-cone their pre 2006 mid domes due to top plate corrosion being an health & safety issue so I'd guess the plating could be widespread in the loudspeaker industry and as such care should be taken when refurbing drivers with seal rather than sand being the better practice.
I'm noticing more and more Tannoy vintage drivers turning up with varying degrees of white powdery corrosion to the magnet bright-work/ top-plates- if it's cadmium it's toxic and accumulative over time. I've never abraded these surfaces in fear of contaminating the gap rather I've only ever treated any rusting to the steel under the coating so the possibility of prior inhalation isn't keeping me awake at night but still....
This is of concern though and I'm searching for some clarification as to wether these parts were cadmium plated. It's quite surprising to discover that the resins in wood, MDF and ply can cause the corrosion so a speaker enclosure isn't exactly a benign environment.
I'm hoping it's zinc plating.
ATC will no longer re-cone their pre 2006 mid domes due to top plate corrosion being an health & safety issue so I'd guess the plating could be widespread in the loudspeaker industry and as such care should be taken when refurbing drivers with seal rather than sand being the better practice.
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cooky1257
pfm Member
Pair of 385 HPD came into my possession that looked to be functioning sporting some old style shiny surrounds that were annoyingly fixed to the front of the cone. One of the drivers has a label saying 'damaged' so I set about finding how/where as they looked fine-long story short, one of the 4 bolts that go through the basket to secure the spider clamp has a sheared head-those threads are going nowhere-no doubt as someone discovered for themselves, so not a concern thankfully.
Whilst checking if the spider bolts were ok I lifted the cone slightly only to feel the surround tear away along it's circumference, the surrounds looked like new but beneath the shiny dope they'd rotted and with only gentle pressure the surround just comes away.
Anyway new kits were on order from Lockwood Audio so all's good.
Look fine...;
err not;
Whilst checking if the spider bolts were ok I lifted the cone slightly only to feel the surround tear away along it's circumference, the surrounds looked like new but beneath the shiny dope they'd rotted and with only gentle pressure the surround just comes away.
Anyway new kits were on order from Lockwood Audio so all's good.
Look fine...;
err not;
cooky1257
pfm Member
I'm re-coning these for someone of the Wam;
Note the white corrosion.
Before.
I removed the diaphragm then, bearing in mind the possibility this is cadmium plating, covered the corrosion with frog tape and snapped it off, dabbing up any remaining particles with more tape then folded it over to seal it.
I then treated the top plate with rust killer, polished them up then cleaned the gap.
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cooky1257
pfm Member
The kind of thing that confirms your suspicion that you're just not charging enough..;-).
It really doesn't take long for a damp storage environment such as a garage to leave its mark. Not the worst I've ever seen but with the cone already off it'd be criminal to leave them in this state.
After.
On a very positive note the phase plug drilling is absolutely top class
It really doesn't take long for a damp storage environment such as a garage to leave its mark. Not the worst I've ever seen but with the cone already off it'd be criminal to leave them in this state.
After.
On a very positive note the phase plug drilling is absolutely top class
