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Post your Pi Project Pics :)

What is the first board up - the one with the blue lights?

It’s a battery module the multiple blue lights indicate state of charge. By a company called 52pi it was £27 on ebay(sans its two batteries.) none left but I’ve seen them on Amazon I think but about £45.
Description:
This is an uninterruptible power supply for the Raspberry Pi 4B/3B+/3B.
It provides enough power for the Raspberry Pi to make your Raspberry Pi still work while moving, and its design is so smart that you can get rid of troubled of a mass wire.
This UPS can provide you with the operation of replacing the battery yourself.
It can use most of the 18650 standard batteries and fully comply with the battery characteristics in terms of battery life.
In addition, the power display provided on the circuit board is also very user-friendly.
The illuminated LED light can quickly show the remain power and support the discharging while charging.
You can directly connect to the external power supply for charging.
At the same time, the Raspberry Pi will not be turned off.
Features:
- LED remaining battery prompt
- Replaceable battery solution
- Support Raspberry Pi 3B/3B+
- 4.85v/1.7A ? 8.25W output capability
- Extended Two USBA port power output
- Output overcurrent protection
- Thimble output, to avoid occupying GPIO-
- Tap to boot, long press to shut down
- Support the charge and discharge power display
- The battery holder can be quickly replaced
- Synchronous switch charge and discharge
- 2.4A synchronous boost conversion, 2.1A synchronous switch charging
- Built-in power path management, support side-loading
- Support load high current line compensation function
- Adaptive charge current regulation to match all adapters
- Charging voltage accuracy: ±0.5%
- Support LED power display
- Button boot
- Automatically detect phone insertion and removal
- Low power consumption
- Intelligent identification of load, automatic standby
- Standby power consumption is less than 100 ?A
- Multiple protection, high reliability
- Output overcurrent, overvoltage, short circuit protection
- Input overvoltage, overcharge, overdischarge, overcurrent discharge protection
- Machine over temperature protection
- ESD 4KV, instantaneous withstand voltage 12V
 


My other setup. A Durio pro. This sounds impressive powered by the Pi. I’ve yet to use the preferred power input on the top Pro board.
 
Here’s my RPi setup. Started out a number of years ago as an experiment to see what could be done with the RPi 3b+ feeding I2S into an old Arcam TDA1541 DAC board pulled from an Alpha CD player. It’s grown and got significantly better over the years. The Pi output is reclocked with a Kali top hat and fed from an ALW super reg. It runs Picoreplayer with filter settings derived from Archimago blog. The DAC board has various tweaks and is fed from three independent pre-tracking regs. It looks ugly and is a right lash up but I love it. Best bang for the buck tweak is the Archimago settings in Picoreplayer.

 
Here’s my RPi setup. Started out a number of years ago as an experiment to see what could be done with the RPi 3b+ feeding I2S into an old Arcam TDA1541 DAC board pulled from an Alpha CD player. It’s grown and got significantly better over the years. The Pi output is reclocked with a Kali top hat and fed from an ALW super reg. It runs Picoreplayer with filter settings derived from Archimago blog. The DAC board has various tweaks and is fed from three independent pre-tracking regs. It looks ugly and is a right lash up but I love it. Best bang for the buck tweak is the Archimago settings in Picoreplayer.


I still have my old Arcam CD73T in a wardrobe, and still remember the sound of it fondly even though I don't use a CD player any more.

It'd be great to have the kind of thing you've done here. It's beyond me, tech-wise, but I definitely applaud your ingenuity.
 
Here’s my RPi setup. Started out a number of years ago as an experiment to see what could be done with the RPi 3b+ feeding I2S into an old Arcam TDA1541 DAC board pulled from an Alpha CD player. It’s grown and got significantly better over the years. The Pi output is reclocked with a Kali top hat and fed from an ALW super reg. It runs Picoreplayer with filter settings derived from Archimago blog. The DAC board has various tweaks and is fed from three independent pre-tracking regs. It looks ugly and is a right lash up but I love it. Best bang for the buck tweak is the Archimago settings in Picoreplayer.


Excellent!!!
Just love the controlled chaos :)
 


My other setup. A Durio pro. This sounds impressive powered by the Pi. I’ve yet to use the preferred power input on the top Pro board.

Fascinating - does this run some kind of bi-amping situation or is it either/or ?
 
You can take the top (Pro board) off and it’s still a working DAC. With the top board in place the lower RCA’s are redundant. Apparently you can stack more of the bottom board: each giving an extra 3db headroom.There is some useful info on the distributors site.
 
You can take the top (Pro board) off and it’s still a working DAC. With the top board in place the lower RCA’s are redundant. Apparently you can stack more of the bottom board: each giving an extra 3db headroom.There is some useful info on the distributors site.
Really? Are there other connectors between the boards besides GPIO? Because IIRC GPIO pins (almost always) go straight through the board, basically forming a bus (I2S). So stacking identical DACs should result in identical output from each DAC... Maybe I misunderstood your explanation.

I found this variant that shows them stacked like yours, but they are different because the lower RCAs are removed and the board outputs are combined via jumper wires:

https://www.gravitech.us/duduala.html


I guess that kind of makes sense, but it seems like it is just averaging the output from the two DACS(?!).
 
That’s the setup if you buy ready assembled from the manufacturer. It’s saves them a couple of rca connectors? The full info is probably at the same place you got the pic. I’m just repeating a couple of facts from the designer, not claiming any knowledge of it.
 
That’s the setup if you buy ready assembled from the manufacturer. It’s saves them a couple of rca connectors? The full info is probably at the same place you got the pic. I’m just repeating a couple of facts from the designer, not claiming any knowledge of it.
Yeah, but it looks like to have that same setup you'd need to solder 2-4 wires between the two layers. Otherwise the board in the middle is doing nothing(?)
 
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Here's mine: a streamer based on piCorePlayer. It uses an Allo Kali reclocker and a Allo Piano 2.1 DAC hat. The streamer has two linear power supplies: one for the digital boards and the 7 inch display and a second one for the DAC hat. I built the enclosure out of 6 mm beech plywood which I had some scrap lying around. The display is angled at 10 degrees for better viewing.
 
Pretty unexciting campared to some of the kit here. From the right:
RPi 4b running Raspberrypi OS/LMS/Squeezelite. Also runs Pihole. Connected via usb to:
Khadas toneboard which outputs to amp.
Pi 3b/IQAudio Digi board currently running piCorePlayer. I also have an IQAudio DAC board for this so I swap in & out as needed.

IMG_20210412_182315_Bokeh by John T, on Flickr
 
Yeah, but it looks like to have that same setup you'd need to solder 2-4 wires between the two layers. Otherwise the board in the middle is doing nothing(?)

Here is the layout. I’m powering from the Pi and taking output from the upper set of RCA’s. As the DAC sits on the lower board it must be connected and therefore doing something?

 
Here is the layout. I’m powering from the Pi and taking output from the upper set of RCA’s. As the DAC sits on the lower board it must be connected and therefore doing something?

From what I read I thought both boards had DACs and the purpose of the wires in the photo I posted bridge the two DACs outputs together. It's unusual! But I am not sure yours is doing that unless you remove the RCA sockets and solder the two boards together like in the photo. The page for that item I believe refers to some mods to make it work.

It's surprising there's no documentation on that page because it seems to imply you can add more DACs yourself (several, as you mentioned) but it doesn't mention that they'd need to have wires soldered between them (blue wires in photos) for it to work. At least that's how it looks based on the photos from the product page.

Right now I believe the two DACs are only outputting (basically the same signal) to their own output. So basically one isn't doing anything. Might be worth emailing them to sanity check whether your setup is doing what it's supposed to.
 


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