For the car gurus - underseal

[hifilover1979]

When Spring finally arrives, I'll be looking to get the car up onto axle stands and get the wheel arch liners out and get the prone areas to rust for BMW E39s undersealed (wheel arches, sills and some other under-car areas).

Currently the car is spotless, rust free with it being an import from the Land of the Rising Sun; but still; always better to protect it More so with how much work I've put into it and also it's higher worth on these shores

The obvious choices are Bilt Hamper, Waxoyl, Raptor etc. But has anyone had experience of the Lanoguard stuff at all?

I'm ideally looking for a straight forward spray on product; one that can be applied easily and also directed into the sills via the means of a longer nozzle etc

FYI this is my touring & project:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1797122&i=0

 

[Chops54]

Brush on Waxoyl underseal only for me I’m afraid.

 

[hifilover1979]

Brush on Waxoyl underseal only for me I’m afraid.

Please can you elaborate why?

 

[stevec67]

I would use Waxoyl, used it for years. Lanoguard is just lanolin in solvent, vreat, but at that price you could apply Waxoyl every year. I would. All these treatments are only as good as the person putting them on. Going back regularly will keep it topped up and you will catch any missed bits. I used Waxoyl to stop corrosion on a Mazda MX5, it worked on the chassis longitudinal members, a notorious rot spot, and it slowed down the sill rot for 2 years. By then I'd lost interest and I sold the car for someone else to do the welding.

 

[jimpey]

I used Hammerite Underbody Seal on a Chevrolet I had a while ago. Sprayed on very nicely.

Got a 6 pack unopened and a Draper spray gun languishing in the shed in sunny Chorley.

Come and get it, be glad to see it used.

Jim

 

[Chops54]

Please can you elaborate why?

I like it on flat panels like inner wings etc. With a brush it only goes where I want it to go and because it’s thicker it doesn’t drip everywhere. I can work it into corners etc and get a good application around wheel arch edges and the like.

 

[hifilover1979]

I used Hammerite Underbody Seal on a Chevrolet I had a while ago. Sprayed on very nicely.

Got a 6 pack unopened and a Draper spray gun languishing in the shed in sunny Chorley.

Come and get it, be glad to see it used.

Jim

Cheers for that Jim; will keep it you in mind once we're allowed off our driveways

Is what you've got all that's needed?

I've read that it's best to get it thoroughly warmed through before applying it etc

 

[hifilover1979]

I like it on flat panels like inner wings etc. With a brush it only goes where I want it to go and because it’s thicker it doesn’t drip everywhere. I can work it into corners etc and get a good application around wheel arch edges and the like.

Thanks for that; makes a lot of sense.

Suppose I could spray it on and then spread it/work it in with a brush etc...

I'm not going to go over the top; IMO it's not worth it. But getting the more prone areas sorted makes the most sense

 

[Chops54]

I would use Waxoyl, used it for years. Lanoguard is just lanolin in solvent, vreat, but at that price you could apply Waxoyl every year. I would. All these treatments are only as good as the person putting them on. Going back regularly will keep it topped up and you will catch any missed bits. I used Waxoyl to stop corrosion on a Mazda MX5, it worked on the chassis longitudinal members, a notorious rot spot, and it slowed down the sill rot for 2 years. By then I'd lost interest and I sold the car for someone else to do the welding.

You’re supposed to weld it up first then waxoyl it unless you want it to go up in flames

 

[Chris Tarling]

I find the Dinitrol Metallic Underbody Wax absolutely brilliant.

 

[stevec67]

You’re supposed to weld it up first then waxoyl it unless you want it to go up in flames

I knew I was going wrong somewhere!

Oh and I still prefer underbody wax to underseal. Normal waxoyl, thinned with paraffin, spray it on with a paraffin gun. Lash it all over. Keep it off the brakes. :- P

 

[stevec67]

Dinitrol was always very expensive and pro application only in the past. I've not encountered the modern stuff.

 

[NRG]

Dinitrol 4941 all the way

 

[Sonority]

Have a look at the Dinitrol site - I used Waxoyl for years, but for the last 10 it has been Dinitrol, and I personally find it A) way easier to apply (supplied in spray cans,) & B) for me it is superior. I use a couple of grades - the thinner one for flat pannels not in direct line of attack, and the thicker, black one for areas of high abuse.
The extension flexible tube can get right into tiny places and chassis tubes, and coates very well.

 

[stevec67]

Are you going to drill holes and cavity inject, or just do what you can see?

 

[hifilover1979]

Have a look at the Dinitrol site - I used Waxoyl for years, but for the last 10 it has been Dinitrol, and I personally find it A) way easier to apply (supplied in spray cans,) & B) for me it is superior. I use a couple of grades - the thinner one for flat pannels not in direct line of attack, and the thicker, black one for areas of high abuse.
The extension flexible tube can get right into tiny places and chassis tubes, and coates very well.

That sounds perfect

Echo's what I've just been reading over on the PH forums in the Classics section re someone protecting a Yank Tank they've bought to sit alongside their TVR

They've used Dinitrol and Lanoguard

 

[hifilover1979]

Are you going to drill holes and cavity inject, or just do what you can see?

Absolutely not!

I'll be covering the inner wings, arches and the sills (decent access with the arch liners removed and also the jacking pads out etc). Will be able to get into them with the long nozzles

Looks like Dinitrol is the one to go for and probably Lanoguard for the shocks/springs and other areas (rear diff, subframes etc) just for some added protection

 

[Mike P]

I've had fairly reasonable results with a rust converter - followed by Dinitrol 3125 - followed by Dinitrol 4941.

In high wear areas such as the wheelarches the 4941 needs patching every year or so.

 

[hifilover1979]

I've had fairly reasonable results with a rust converter - followed by Dinitrol 3125 - followed by Dinitrol 4941.

In high wear areas such as the wheelarches the 4941 needs patching every year or so.

I haven't tried it but I'd be tempted to try the metallic underbody was for the wheelarches.

Well fortunately there's no rust...

Your last sentence doesn't make sense FYI

 

[stevec67]

Absolutely not!

I'll be covering the inner wings, arches and the sills (decent access with the arch liners removed and also the jacking pads out etc). Will be able to get into them with the long nozzles

Looks like Dinitrol is the one to go for and probably Lanoguard for the shocks/springs and other areas (rear diff, subframes etc) just for some added protection

Hope you can get decent access without drilling. Places like arches can be difficult, it's not always easy to get to the bits that need the wax. Long nozzles and the product well thinned help, you get a mist that blows around the cavities. Sometimes you need to drill anyway, back in the days when cars really rotted and pro installers used Dinitrol, the drill points were well known and were closed with grommets.