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Building the Ergo E-IX mini-monitor loudspeaker system

Update: Just checked the Janzen site and they don't list a 2.5uF, so I assume that 2.2uF is a substitute - is there any benefit it paralleling a ~0.3uF cap to get closer to the ideal?
The 2.5uF value was available from Solen when I was prototyping the XO. I've since settled on Jantzen Z-Superiors. I've just popped open my E-IXs and can confirm the value I'm using for the free-space version is 2.7uF.

Apologies for the confusion. I don't think there are many free-space builds of the E-IX. I hope Martin and Stefan can swap out the caps without too much hassle.

James
 
The standard version has a 2.7uF instead of the 2.5uF in the recently posted schematic too.
The wall-mount version of the series cap for the tweeter specifies 3.3uF, not 2.7uF.

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But if you are referring to the zobel section, which requires 2.5uF, then a 2.7uF cap should be used.

I think that is what you meant.
 
The 2.5uF value was available from Solen when I was prototyping the XO. I've since settled on Jantzen Z-Superiors. I've just popped open my E-IXs and can confirm the value I'm using for the free-space version is 2.7uF.

Apologies for the confusion. I don't think there are many free-space builds of the E-IX. I hope Martin and Stefan can swap out the caps without too much hassle.

James

I wonder where I've got my note about 2.2uF from then. Very odd.

We can just parellel caps up here to get to the desired value. James should we aim to get to 2.5 or 2.7uF? We can either go 0.47uF or 0.33uF to get in the ball park. On the other hand, the pair I have built and have on test in free space here are the 2.2uF I have supplied thus far and they sound great....
 
I think the absolutely correct value is 2.5uF, but as that is not available with Jantzen, then bypassing the 2.2uF with a .33uF should be bang on. Perhaps you can try that with your test version and see if there is an audible difference.
 
All packed up and ready for transport. That was quite a marathon! I'll weigh them all tomorrow and sort out the UPS quotes for you all and send invoice over the next day or two.
 
Met Stefan (and two nice dogs!) and picked up a very neatly packed box! Can’t wait to start, but need to be patient no not screw up by rushing.
 
Met Stefan (and two nice dogs!) and picked up a very neatly packed box! Can’t wait to start, but need to be patient no not screw up by rushing.
I recall how my unbridled enthusiasm to finish assembling Airfix models in my youth inevitably led to unused parts left the sprue and less than good results.

The two things I can advise is:

(1) Have all the necessary tools, particularly clamps, ready and a stable flat surface to work on.

(2) Dry fit, check alignment, get a feel for sequencing of clamps, before wet assembly. Wood glue is slippery when wet.

Good luck.
 
For the standard version It is best screwed to the bottom as you can see in the photos above. I drilled some extra holes in the PCB for that reason. For those of you who had a ready made XO I already added the cables as well so you should be able to run those easily to the drivers. Do that before the stuffing is put in.

For those building a free standing version it'll not fit on the bottom so you need to screw it to the back just above the binding posts. There is just about enough room so make sure you line it up right first.

I pre cut the stuffing to the rough size for you all too, you will want to cut round the woofer and the tweeter though.
 


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