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Chord Hugo Batteries

Sorry for being awol - I've just returned from an unexpected hospital stay.
After research, its a battery that goes from 3.3v when depleted to 4.35v when fully charged as opposed to 3v to 4.2 in the nominally described 3.7v battery.

Very useful information, thank you.

Slight tangent but why did you like the TT less than the basic Hugo?

I've previously been a bass player in a band and I do like to be able to follow the bass line in music. With the Hugo the bass lines just seem to skip along but with the TT, although you certainly get more bass, it didn't seem to quite have the agility.
Which is more accurate, I couldn't say but I found the Hugo presentation more enjoyable.

What Mynamemynaim said re this also cannot be denied.

cheers
 
Sorry for being awol - I've just returned from an unexpected hospital stay.


Very useful information, thank you.



I've previously been a bass player in a band and I do like to be able to follow the bass line in music. With the Hugo the bass lines just seem to skip along but with the TT, although you certainly get more bass, it didn't seem to quite have the agility.
Which is more accurate, I couldn't say but I found the Hugo presentation more enjoyable.

What Mynamemynaim said re this also cannot be denied.

cheers
Well more importantly, are you ok? :)
 
Normality restored:

IMG1303s.jpg


Thanks everyone.
 
Nice repair!

I've ordered 18650 cells from these people before, all genuine high quality cells from the leading brands. I'm not sure they sell them with solder tags fitted though - I've been thinking about buying a tag welding kit, just to have the option to build packs.

https://18650.uk/

Andy.
 
I've been thinking about buying a tag welding kit, just to have the option to build packs.


I built my own out of a car battery , a motorbike starter solenoid, a couple of battery cables, two solid copper nails and a switch

I have built two electric bicycle batteries (35 cells 29v) with it and it performs beyond expectations... lovely spot welds that are strong and clean
@Andrew L Weekes
 
The only 18650s they have now are too long

The ones I fitted were the 70mm ones and are still available. They are a very tight fit on one side but I just managed to jiggle it in. There is a plastic moulding on that side intruding into the battery space.
I don't know what the tolerance is on length but if it had been any longer at all it wouldn't have worked. The ones that came out were 68mm and fitted easily.
 
Plus the solder pads on the board are tiny and very close together. In the end I cut and shut the flying leads from the new batteries to the remnants I left from the old battery still soldered to the board.
 
I built my own out of a car battery , a motorbike starter solenoid, a couple of battery cables, two solid copper nails and a switch

I have built two electric bicycle batteries (35 cells 29v) with it and it performs beyond expectations... lovely spot welds that are strong and clean
@Andrew L Weekes

Nice work, I'm thinking that it's a cheap way to re-cell the battery pack on my bike when the time comes, although that's a way off. There's often projects thought that would benefit from battery portability and I always feel safer with cylindrical cells than pouch types.
 
I use both types (being a model maker and cyclist) and fully agree the cased lipos are much stronger and make nice solid packs when put together

They do seem more prone to self discharge than the pouch ones tho , and once one goes...it quickly brings down the group it is in and often the whole battery
I have pulled apart a few duff ones ( my mate owns an electric bicycle shop) and the above seems par for the course...even to the extent that brand new premium price bikes have had faulty batteries from new....(the manufacturer just sends a new one...and doesn't even want the old ones back)
 


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