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Lenco L75 Refurbishment

Dowser

Dowser

Learning to bodge again..
As I have moved back to Switzerland now, I thought it would be rude not to buy this;

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It's part of an L900 stereo - seems to be in good condition, and runs nearly spot on speed wise and is silent. But arm is buggered - it won't cue to the record towards spindle. As far as I can tell, at pivot point it is riding too low - knackered v-blocks? I can't tell easily how to get the thing apart, anyone know the arm model number?

Lastly, is the Shure M75mb any good, and does the stylus look original? Stylus seems in good nick, but is a different colour.

Thanks, more photos;

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Richard
 
Great result! I have one, after a bit of unsuccessful fiddling with the arm I dragged it off and fitted a Mayware (thanks Uncle Nigl!) which is vastly superior and the right length. It uses Linn geometry/arm length.
 
Thanks - just researching on LencoHeaven...seems I should bite the bullet and replace the arm, but I only have an RB250 spare and think (even if I enlarge the whole), it will sit too high. More research to do - I fancied listening to it as is (I connected the tonearm wires to the tuner input 5 pin DIN, so I can plug it direct into another amps phono stage).

On the arm - if I remove the screw under the end stub that holds the cap in place, and disconnect the arm wiring underneath, does it all lift cleanly out?

Cheers, Richard
 
Rega arms are too long, you will need to move the hole to make the geometry work. As the Lenco top plate is heavy pressed steel, this will be hard work and is a reason why the L75 has not caught on in uber-deck circles. Linn arms are a drop-in, look on Vinyl Engine for arm geometry details.

IIRC mine came off when I released the large nut that holds the arm pillar on. Actually it isn't really a nut, it is a piece of pressed steel resembling a nut, you need about a 32mm spanner or even bigger. I suspect bigger, I have a 32 from my car-fettling days and it didn't fit. I unscrewed it in the end but it wasn't pretty. I think that if you release the grub screw it leaves a collar that's too narrow to be any use. That's from memory though, not sure if it's accurate.

There are some that say the stock arm is OK (our own TonyL for example). However most admit that a Linn Basik outclasses it, given that they are available for loose change (£50) and the worst you can expect is to replace the counteweight rubbers with rubber O rings or maybe a bit of bike inner tube, why would you bother?
 
Where do you find the Basik at that price, steve67, and do you mean the older LVV models? I have a Lenco, and, if the arm turns out to be shot, will change the arm to a Basik. Had one before, not as good as the Regas, but by no means bad.
 
Thanks - I'd like to listen to the stock arm first...wondering whether I can bodge some file slotted screws in where the v blocks live :)

Not sure whether to stiffen up the end stub as well at same time (most likely I will replace the arm so I can compare it to my Soled LP12 and decide which to keep.

Reading up a bit more last night - the LV-V arm fits straight into the Lenco mounting collar should you choose to go that way.

I also confirmed that to get the v blocks out I need to un terminate arm wires, undo screw under end stub and lift the whole thing out...all the while watching where the half moon washer falls :)

Richard
 
Just checked the v block link, thanks - has photos and instructions...!

I still like the idea of trying something solid like metal - most likely a DL110 or Corus cart will go into it, same for solidly coupling the CW stub.

Richard
 
I bought a poor condition GL75 several years ago and have got it going again. Kept as standard though with original arm. Prefer the stock look. The original arm had a sagging end stub. This was sorted out by the winding cotton trick- all explained on the Lenco Heaven forum. A great resource if I'm allowed to mention it here....

V blocks were shot so got original replacements. Supplier has now gone alas.
Idler was replaced as it was a plastic one with lots of rumble!
Now sounds great to me. Lots of weight and realism to the sound. Never felt the need to try a different arm. Although others will feel differently of course.
 
Thanks all - think I am going to try DIY v block fabrication first (using metal) and solidly couple the end stub as per LH.

At least then I can listen to it quickly before stripping/cleaning motor, idler and bearing.

Anyone know if the corkscrew anti-skate arm is availed? Mine came with the weight, but arm is missing.

Richard
 
Lenco Heaven has a classified ads forum (hidden to non-members) that is great for picking up missing bits of decks.

One more tonearm suggestion - the Ortofon AS-212 (the old 70s arm, not the modern version) also has the right geometry. I sourced one for my L75 for 50 quid from a chap in Germany where they seem to often turn up on old Telefunken music centres.

Main snags are that the finger-lift mechanism doesn't work outside the music centre, so it's manual cueing only, and arm wiring is pretty short so it's a bit fiddly to attach to the junction box in the Lenco. But on balance I'm really pleased with it - for the money it was a steal.
 
Classic bodge, found some slotted screws the right length, filed out the edges a bit to ensure the knife bearings can full swing and was very careful to ensure azimuth was OK.

Used kite string to re-tension the end stub (no superglue yet, but its very solid now).

The M75 stylus is knackered, so I whacked a DL110 on.

Spent the next 3 hours listening to music :)

Need to try it in main system, but initial impressions from my cellar system are very good.

Pictures below.

Richard

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paulfromcamden said:
...

One more tonearm suggestion - the Ortofon AS-212 (the old 70s arm, not the modern version) also has the right geometry. I sourced one for my L75 for 50 quid from a chap in Germany where they seem to often turn up on old Telefunken music centres.

Main snags are that the finger-lift mechanism doesn't work outside the music centre, so it's manual cueing only, and arm wiring is pretty short so it's a bit fiddly to attach to the junction box in the Lenco. But on balance I'm really pleased with it - for the money it was a steal.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul - I'll keep my eyes out for one here in CH.

Richard
 
Richard, I have most of the bits from my arm - you're welcome to them if they're any good to you...

Fran
 
A few weeks back I checked geometry & realised the stock plinth was sagging, so removed the springs and used the top plate to reinforce the plinth back to true (top plate very flexible, must only nip bolts to ensure it is not distorted).

My concern about alignment of dl110 given headshell design was misfounded, it was spot on, as was azimuth (amazingly, given v-block bodge).

It didn't sound that much better in my bench system than before! Still good, but not the SQ increase I was expecting given it was leaning a few degrees to the right on initial listening.

I took my Croft Micro II down today to check pot value and space for more cap changes (pls don't tell Glenn :))...so figured I may as well connect it all up and use the power section of my 3020i only. Wow! Lenco will go into main system this weekend, I suspect it is better than my Linn!

Quick photo;

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Richard
 
Jelco SA-750D goes very well in an L75. Virtually drop in. I liked the 5mm Achromat alot too to raise the playing surface a little. All in a lovely Russ COllinson plinth. Jubbly.

Heres one I made earlier for a mate in Germany.

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Lenco L75s and L76s are a nice one to find as they have a much better arm on them

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