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Thorens TD-124/II restoration / upgrade

Great thread here which I have read through front to back at least twice now while I'm doing my own restoration on Mk II 90377.
I have come a long way having rebuilt the motor, replaced step pulley bushings and main bearing bushings, and adding an Audiosilente idler wheel.
I have just reassembled this week and now to my shock and horror both my stepped pulleys are exhibiting a slight wobble (I also have a TD135 so gave that one a whirl too) it seems very strange that both these precision parts could be running eccentric.. and also cannot see how the new bushings could possibly cause this as there is no play whatsoever.
 
I need to buy a replacement bulb for the strobe on my td124.2. They are available from Schopper and other EU sources but they are all £25 plus. I have found a source in the USA that will bring the price down to around a fiver so long as I buy at least 10 or more. I don't need more than 2 spares for the rest of my life!. Is there demand from other 124 owning fishes? So long as I don' t get stung by customs they would be available at £5 inc UK postage. PM me if you're interested.
 
Here's a couple of pics of my TD-124 Mk I with restoration almost complete. Rebuilt Ortofon RMG-212 tonearm with new steel ball bearings, repainted frame, main bearing with new sintered bronze bushings and a new ceramic silicon nitride bearing, and a new plinth with IEC and RCA sockets installed. Has about a week of testing and adjusting to go before being shipped back to me. Can't wait!

iHAYXnT.jpg


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Looks superb. Where did you get it restored? I rather fancy one of those Ortfon arms, but never quite end up pushing the ‘buy’ button. Just the thing for a SPU, but probably not ideal for much else. It is so easy to change arms/armboards though I should do it one day.
 
Tony L said:
Looks superb. Where did you get it restored? I rather fancy one of those Ortfon arms, but never quite end up pushing the ‘buy’ button. Just the thing for a SPU, but probably not ideal for much else. It is so easy to change arms/armboards though I should do it one day.
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Thanks Starbuck. Tony, the restorer is Greg Metz of STS Turntables in Pleasant Shade, Tennessee.

https://www.classicthorens.com
https://www.facebook.com/classicthorens/

Really good guy and absolutely passionate about what he does. Lots of pics of his work at both links.

Greg likes the RMG-212 with an SPU as well as with low compliance carts (Denon 103R, Shure) mounted in a heavy headshell. But it takes a minimum total weight of 28g for the arm to balance properly. I'll start off with an Ortofon LH-9000 (16.8g) plus a couple of 3g weights. Cart compliance should be in the single digits, but I will try my old DV XX-2 (at 10 x 10-6 cm/dyn). At 8.9g, the XX-2 will bring my total weight to 31.7g, so the arm will balance, but I have no idea if it will sound as good as it did on my WT GTA. Am also planning to try one of the 103R variants, but I have always wanted to own an SPU, and will purchase either the Silver Meister or Royal GM MK II. Am also keeping my eye out for a vintage Ortofon G headshell (like the one in the pic above).
 
Hello,

I just bough a lovely original Thorens TD 124. I would really like to get the motor refurbished in best possible (professional) way to original condition. Same thing for the main bearing which is all good but probably benefit from proper cleaning. I both have the original E50 motor and the Papst replacement (working on TT right now). It's unclear if the E50 ever was faulty when it was replaced in 1989.

Please do you know anyone in europe offering careful original refurbishing of these things? Any preference for motor?
 
Thank you very much I've contacted hanzehifi. Anyone know where I can get an original type armboard cut for Linn tonearm for my TD 124?

I've got the SME 3009 series II improved tonearm for it but I plan to sell it and use Linn Basik LVX with Linn Adikt MM instead which I already have. I usually use LP12 and naim amps. Whats your opinion on that? I have no experience of SME arms. Any reason a Linn arm won't fit the bill? (the thing is really the turntable itself).
 
Once you have your Thorens serviced and running at it's best it deserves a better arm than a Linn Basik which is, well a bit basic. If the Adikt is as high compliance as I think it is then it will do well in the SME. If you are staying with reasonably compliant MMs that's fine you have a classic combo, but if you want to move on to MCs you will need something with more mass.

Blank arm boards are usually available on eBay.
 
Personally I’d take the 3009 over the LVX every time assuming both are in good condition. The Adikt will work fine in it too. I may be biased though as I’ve just never liked Linn arms below the Ittok and the 124/3009 is a classic combo. With an Improved just stick to fairly high compliance MMs, load them right at the phono stage and you have a really nice vinyl front end.
 
I always wanted to have an Naim Aro but never got the chance since my LP12 is Keel/EkosSE and I'm happy with that :) My dream is to have a Naim Aro on my TD 124, I think I'll settle with Linn Basik LVX until I got the mechanics sorted and also saved up for Aro. I hope I can find someone who cut an armboard for Linn. Thanks for your input so far. Hopefully I can show you something good in the end :)
 
What do a SME 3009 series II improved give in sound quality compared to a good Linn arm or Naim Aro? Especially when it comes to the TD 124 combination? (I have too little experience with SME) What's the essence of SME performance of those days?
 
Efraim said:
What do a SME 3009 series II improved give in sound quality compared to a good Linn arm or Naim Aro? Especially when it comes to the TD 124 combination?
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The combination has a certain ‘rightness’ to it to my mind, it may not be the last word in slam, detail or punch, but there is something about the 124 that just gets out of the way and keeps you listening. It just sings. A lot also depends on what cartridge you want to use too, the 3009 Improved is really only suitable for fairly high compliance MM carts (some of which are very good indeed), the pre-Improved (which is what I have) is rather more versatile and can take anything from a DL-103 through to a high compliance MM depending on how it is set up. I currently have an Ortofon 540/II.

I must also point out I’m totally biased as I think classic decks with modern arms look wrong in the same was as say fitting alloys and a full body kit to an E-Type or 1960s Ferrari. It is just not something I want to do. I like to enjoy my 124 as what it is, and even so it comes out about level pegging with my very good CD replay system and I recently preferred to to a Technics SL1200G, so it isn’t getting things that wrong!
 
Thanks! Yes I also want the turntable to be as much an all original TD124 as possible in its best fettle! I had not really included the arm though but the 'rightness' comment made me think. The SME puts me off mainly because I don't understand it I guess. With a Linn arm and cart life is easy :) But who am I trying to fool? I should try them both really because this turntable is here to stay!
 
I don’t understand what is hard to understand about the SME, it is a true design classic, just so, so good from a ergonomics and usage perspective. I suspect the first version in 1959 was the very first arm to allow easy adjustment of VTF, anti-skate, VTA, azimuth, overhang and to provde damped cuing. Many prior arms offered one or two, but to my knowledge none brought the full set. It pretty much wrote the tonearm rule book! Have a look at VinylEngine if you need the manual.
 
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