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SNAPS hassle with 110 monoblok set?.

Discussion in 'd.i.y.' started by ian r, Dec 9, 2008.

  1. ian r

    ian r 401's Nakman

    I am monoblokking a pair of 110's and for the first time using the biamp set up out of the snaps

    I have checked the amps. working ..
    I have checked the snaics, working

    But whatever is connected to socket 4 aint.

    Unused before it was a tad dirty so cleaned it with a tiny allen key and tooth pick brush I have no contact cleaner so just worked at it physically

    However this made no difference at all ........ internally the SNAP's a single rail item from 1982 is untampered with and in otherwise perfect nick and powers the 32.5 just fine.

    Does it have to be a dry joint or such like .... I cant see one and as I say it looks like 3 and 4 are unused

    What am I missing. Im not a experienced experimenter but have a circuit tester that I have never known how to use but I know the beep setting that beeps if there is a connection ...... at least I think thats what it means

    Arts degree


  2. karuhi

    karuhi pfm Member

    hi Ian, i have the same setup as yours - helped out immensely by some of the PFM members - and its a big jump in quality. mine dosen't plug through the snaps at all - the snaps is teddyregged (thanks teddy/neil) and it powers the preamp. i then have a Y lead (thanks again to neil) that plugs into the pre. don't know quite what could be the problem with your system but i can recomend setting it up the way i have. good luck
  3. 337alant

    337alant Negatively Biased

    The 110 has its own power supply surely?, so all you need is 2 signal interconnect cables out of you output from the 32.5 pre amp if it doesn’t have 2 out puts then make up or buy a Y piece splitter to go from the single output of the pre amp to 2 leads, plug one lead in each 110 and then either wire the speakers using
    Bi amp mode = 1 amp for the bass drivers on L & R and one for the tweeters L & R
    dual mono mode, where one amp powers both drivers in one speaker and the other amp powers both drivers in the other, but I don’t know if a 110 can be wired in mono?

    IMO bi amp is the best way.
  4. mega lord

    mega lord Centre tapped

    With my mono Nap140's i dispensed with running the signal to the preamp psu also. Route the signal from the pre directly to each mono amp and make sure you disconnect the pre amp power supply within the 110's. The power can then be taken from the snaps to the pre via its own dedicated cable.

    Hope you get it sorted. I found doing this with 140's to be a major improvement.

  5. johnnym

    johnnym pfm Member

    I have a SNAPS and NAC42 and have been thinking about putting in mono-blocks. A SNAPS does not split the left and right channel for you, you either need to get a HI-CAP to split the signal (which would work with your 32.5 but not my 42) or a cheaper option would be to get a cable made up for you to ao this. In this case you would attach the pre-amp to the SNAPS into socket 2 as normal and then where you normally have one cable coming out of socket 1 into a stereo amp, plug in the cable that splits the left and right channels. I assume this cable would be the same as the ‘Y’ lead karuhi mentions above.
  6. ian r

    ian r 401's Nakman

    Gosh ....... snaps not splitting the signal ........ ho hum ....... its not dual railed either
    Its an anomalistic 4 socket, half size, chrome bumper, shoe box with an Olive fascia.
    ......neiljardman advises addittional linking of sockets 2 & 3 such that the signal "will allow relaying of the signals from any one socket to all of the others. If you add those links plug the lead from the 32.5 in to socket 2 or 3 and the leads to the power amps go in sockets 1 & 4".

    Which sounds the ticket. however with all the in and outing of the snaics even - generally speaking whilst switched off (I cant be totally certain as it was 2am!) I seem to fried the 110's as no lights are a comin on ...... internal fuses OK, no tripping at the meter and snaps still powering 32 ....... the absence of leds is fairly convincing. Perhaps residual power in the caps did the damage? As i wasnt waiting long at all after switching off.

    A cautionary note there. or maybe something obvious?

    The increased power and control over the late issue Briks was immediately obvious albeit one channel at a time ...... definitely a good idea. As I had to ungracefully drop out of buying a PF 250 last week due to family finances I am very glad to get this project up and running ..... with long known 110 'friends'.

    Neil is likely to transatlantically call me later so I will have a helping voice ...... apparently Neil I can call you for free ses my wife ....... remarkable
  7. karuhi

    karuhi pfm Member

    hi Ian, i thought i'd fried my 110's as well, don't panic you'll probably be fine. Neil will sort you out. he took alot of panic messages from me and sorted them all out.
  8. ian r

    ian r 401's Nakman

    Unbelievably it turns out the wall socket packed up!

    In daylight I extracted the long iec leads and stuck em into the cd and tape machine and no power present, unplugged from the wall and inserted into another wall socket ....... bingo

    Other sockets on the same room and wiring spur work fine ........ curious

    So NAPs are both well ....... its back to the snaps tomorrow with some links methinks

    Does he know it he's a po it
    May his solder flow it better than his werds

    its late Im happy the 110's are sound and tomorrow may be another day

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