If quotes likes "measures poorly" are going to be used then we need to qualify this against something meaningful. As we all know equipment manufacturers back in the 1970s went down the road of making amps with ridiculously low distortion figures, like 0.00001%, but the trouble was most sounded very poor. I am not saying you need to ignore measurements because some are important. But can anyone hear the difference between two identical amplifiers, one with 0.1% distortion, and the other with 0.0001% distortion? And can our ears hear this difference at normal room listening levels? There are many other factors that determine how an amplifier sounds and performs in a given system. And seeing as SET amps are getting a rap in this thread you might want to think about why a very large percentage of the worlds most highly thought of HiFi brands manufacture and demonstrate with SET amplifiers...
SET Amp recommendations?
- Thread starter malcesine
- Start date
If quotes likes "measures poorly" are going to be used then we need to qualify this against something meaningful. As we all know equipment manufacturers back in the 1970s went down the road of making amps with ridiculously low distortion figures, like 0.00001%, but the trouble was most sounded very poor. I am not saying you need to ignore measurements because some are important. But can anyone hear the difference between two identical amplifiers, one with 0.1% distortion, and the other with 0.0001% distortion? And can our ears hear this difference at normal room listening levels? There are many other factors that determine how an amplifier sounds and performs in a given system. And seeing as SET amps are getting a rap in this thread you might want to think about why a very large percentage of the worlds most highly thought of HiFi brands manufacture and demonstrate with SET amplifiers...
G
Guest432
Guest
If you want to try SET ditch the ProAcs and get some high efficiency speakers like Tannoy etc or if too big some full range drivers like Frugelhorns or horn loaded like Impulse H2 etc.
I don't see the point in bi-amping unless you are going to use active crossovers (that's not really bi-amping though) Bi-amping brings no advantages.
I don't see the point in bi-amping unless you are going to use active crossovers (that's not really bi-amping though) Bi-amping brings no advantages.
rdf
pfm Member
I wondered if someone would recommend this. There's no "sweetness" in a Linear A. Nothin' but neutral.
Erocka2000
pfm Member
I use a 22 watt SET integrated amp with 93db efficiency speakers and it will embarrass quite a few solid state and non-SET tube amps. Good sound isn't always in the specs.
martinab2
pfm Member
I have had good results with 2A3 amps - my favourite circuit is the JC Morrison 'micro 2A3', a direct coupled design that uses both sections of an 6sl7 as driver. EL84 works well in SE designs as does the EL34. For all SE stuff transformer quality is critical and they tend to be expensive.
For a fun way of trying out your idea, you could have a look for a Telefunken S80 series - it's an amp that was designed just to do high frequencies and was sold as a way of 'going stereo' with your mono equipment. There are usually a few for sale on a certain auction site
They need a few mods to sound good - more info here
For a fun way of trying out your idea, you could have a look for a Telefunken S80 series - it's an amp that was designed just to do high frequencies and was sold as a way of 'going stereo' with your mono equipment. There are usually a few for sale on a certain auction site
They need a few mods to sound good - more info here
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
Absolutely not!!! Hi fi is, to quote Quad "the closest approach to the original sound". It has nothing to do with whether or not you like it!
If it measures poorly then it will have a compromised sound.
Julf
Facts are our friends
I guess technically "HiFi" is still defined by DIN45500...
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
Even after brexit?
Barrymagrec
pfm Member
Even after brexit?
No, it`ll all be BS now.
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
Arkless Electronics
Trade: Amp design and repairs.
Bi amping brings several advantages... but not nearly as many as fully active.
tuga
Legal Alien
The best thing for the OP to do is to try and determine whatever is causing the high frequency "aggressiveness". Could be electronic "grain" from the source or the amplification or the ProAc's tweeter.
If the amplifier is to blame then a Linear A would do the trick.
In any case he should avoid pairing a SET with his ProAcs.
Thanks for everyone's feedback - it seems there is no support for pairing my Proac tweeters with an SET amp.
I (wrongly?) thought that driving the tweeter on its own would work quite well with very low power valve amplification.
Moving away from Biamping is simply not possible for a number of setup reasons in my system.
With my amp choice I am not looking to tame very aggressive highs, they actually sound very good - musical, detailed, but just occasionally slightly clinical and not quite as lush as I would ideally like.
I don't mind getting it wrong and having to change amp again.
Ultimately I am looking to get the warmest (even coloured!) sound I can from those tweeters.
Perhaps a pure class A tube setup would be a better fit?
I (wrongly?) thought that driving the tweeter on its own would work quite well with very low power valve amplification.
Moving away from Biamping is simply not possible for a number of setup reasons in my system.
With my amp choice I am not looking to tame very aggressive highs, they actually sound very good - musical, detailed, but just occasionally slightly clinical and not quite as lush as I would ideally like.
I don't mind getting it wrong and having to change amp again.
Ultimately I am looking to get the warmest (even coloured!) sound I can from those tweeters.
Perhaps a pure class A tube setup would be a better fit?
Erocka2000
pfm Member
I think the Line Magnetic 508, which is a Class A SET integrated that puts out 48w would work with your speakers.
jamesd
pfm Member
A bit more than £1k I think
tuga
Legal Alien
If you are unhappy with the tonal balance of your speakers then that's what you should consider upgrading.
Traditionally ProAcs used to have a rising treble response, not sure if they still do.
Erocka2000
pfm Member
Ah, didn't realize the budget. But a man can dream, can't he?
merlin
Avatar changed - Town names deemed offensive.
I've counted Stewart amongst my friends for well over a decade I would imagine and owned most of the Proac range from Hexas to D100's.
Stewart's preferred amplification was always large Audio Research devices and the speakers are simply not designed for SET's.
If you want to sweeten up the D18, look to a reasonably priced s/h power amp.
My advice would be a Berning as I had tremendous success with the pairing. Failing that, a used Audio Research or maybe a sweet sounding Class A would do the trick. Finally, Sugden is also used often with the smaller Proacs.
Stewart's preferred amplification was always large Audio Research devices and the speakers are simply not designed for SET's.
If you want to sweeten up the D18, look to a reasonably priced s/h power amp.
My advice would be a Berning as I had tremendous success with the pairing. Failing that, a used Audio Research or maybe a sweet sounding Class A would do the trick. Finally, Sugden is also used often with the smaller Proacs.
Rockmeister
pfm Member
I can kind of see the thinking, and have mulled on similar lunacy in the past, but the solution lies elsewhere I think
First and foremost, most of the valve effect you crave is found in the 'sound' of a pre amp stage, not a power amp. Or more correctly, power amps 'sound' less than pre amps do IME.
The simplest answer to your query is then to buy a sweet sounding valve pre amp stage(s) and use some very solid class A monoblock power amps to continue the warm but powerful line to the speakers.
Can you do that for the budget?
I doubt it.
OR just try something far eastern and cheap and see what happens (at low volumes and, if it goes BANG, please don' t sue)
First and foremost, most of the valve effect you crave is found in the 'sound' of a pre amp stage, not a power amp. Or more correctly, power amps 'sound' less than pre amps do IME.
The simplest answer to your query is then to buy a sweet sounding valve pre amp stage(s) and use some very solid class A monoblock power amps to continue the warm but powerful line to the speakers.
Can you do that for the budget?
I doubt it.
OR just try something far eastern and cheap and see what happens (at low volumes and, if it goes BANG, please don' t sue)