Wooden floors are usually better for bass than an solid concrete floor, because it allows some of the sound energy to escape from the room rather than being contained and resonating on. (One tip, make sure you have the gap under the floor stuffed with fibers insulation.) This is a big problem when building proffesional recording studios as the acoustic isolation shell contains all the acoustic energy, and great length is gone to to create another inner acoustic control shell.
Isolating the speakers physically can help though. Stone will do little to improve the situation, you want isolation which means foam, rubber, silicone etc.., look at some of the Auralex isolation products.
If the new room sounds more boomy it could be down to two things.
First is that your old room may have had cavity walls, and the new one has mainly brick walls. Is this the case? Cavity walls act as diaphragmatic low frequency absorbers. Stone walls once again contain the acoustic energy resulting in a longer decay time.
Secondly, the shape of the room is a problem. If its length is almost the same as its width, or they are close multiples of each other (length is twice the width etc.) this causes modal 'pile up'. What colourations the room does have, will be two fold on top of each other.
Now for the good news. There are three ways you can combat these problems. In no real order -
First, you can get the speaker and listener positioning optimised so that you can try no to drive the room modes as efficiently, and avoid sitting in any obvious anti-nodes where the bass boom will be strongest. Here is a little web util that can help a lot. http://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html
Second, you can employ acoustic treatments to alter the way the room interacts with the sound. Bass traps damp the room modes so that they have lesser peaks and are spread out better. The decay of energy in the room is sped up which stops it from booming and smearing the other music.
Thirdly, you can use electronic correction. Digital equalisation can be very effective at taming the main points of boom. Its not as good as acoustic treatment but it is less intrusive. The problems here are that it is only particularly useful in a limited area of listening, and while it lessens the strength of the booming frequencies, it doesn't make the bass tighter and reduce the decay of energy as well as physical treatments.
Ideally you want to do all three.
Do not make the mistake that curtains, rugs, hanging pictures etc.. will help. It won't. It will tame the high and mid frequencies but leave the bass as it is, and the greater difference between the two frequency ranges means the problems in the bass just stand out more.
Best of luck.
Isolating the speakers physically can help though. Stone will do little to improve the situation, you want isolation which means foam, rubber, silicone etc.., look at some of the Auralex isolation products.
If the new room sounds more boomy it could be down to two things.
First is that your old room may have had cavity walls, and the new one has mainly brick walls. Is this the case? Cavity walls act as diaphragmatic low frequency absorbers. Stone walls once again contain the acoustic energy resulting in a longer decay time.
Secondly, the shape of the room is a problem. If its length is almost the same as its width, or they are close multiples of each other (length is twice the width etc.) this causes modal 'pile up'. What colourations the room does have, will be two fold on top of each other.
Now for the good news. There are three ways you can combat these problems. In no real order -
First, you can get the speaker and listener positioning optimised so that you can try no to drive the room modes as efficiently, and avoid sitting in any obvious anti-nodes where the bass boom will be strongest. Here is a little web util that can help a lot. http://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html
Second, you can employ acoustic treatments to alter the way the room interacts with the sound. Bass traps damp the room modes so that they have lesser peaks and are spread out better. The decay of energy in the room is sped up which stops it from booming and smearing the other music.
Thirdly, you can use electronic correction. Digital equalisation can be very effective at taming the main points of boom. Its not as good as acoustic treatment but it is less intrusive. The problems here are that it is only particularly useful in a limited area of listening, and while it lessens the strength of the booming frequencies, it doesn't make the bass tighter and reduce the decay of energy as well as physical treatments.
Ideally you want to do all three.
Do not make the mistake that curtains, rugs, hanging pictures etc.. will help. It won't. It will tame the high and mid frequencies but leave the bass as it is, and the greater difference between the two frequency ranges means the problems in the bass just stand out more.
Best of luck.