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Rolleiflex

I got my 5 litre bottle from Silverprint off Blackfriars Bridge Road

When mixing, I use a bucket which I got from Halfords (as part of a car washing kit) and a long screwdriver as a mixing paddle. You then need a Funnel to empty the bucket into the 5L bottle.
 
firestorm said:
Cesare, thanks for that.
I think 1L bottles will probably do for me.

In terms of pushing and pulling. Is it better to push Acros 100 to 200 or pull TMAX 400 to 200 ? I want to avoid problems with contrast and keep nice tonality. I find that I'm using too small an aperture with 400 at the moment. It also means I can buy in 10s or 20s and get a better price.

fs
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I wouldn't try to push Acros - it gets very contrasty if you do. I don't use Tmax, still have stock of Neopan 400 which does work fine at 200. Alternatively use a filter- a yellow would be pretty standard anyway - which would let you open up a bit more.
 
I plan to get some bits and pieces from Silverprint, including the XTOL and fixer so I'll see what they have storage bottles-wise.

Looks like pushing Acros 100 is best avoided. I'll get some TMAX 400 and see whats its like at 200. It also gives me the potential of pushing it to 800 or 1600. Is TMAX any good at giving grainy repotage type results if pushed ? I've heard TRI-X formula was changed from a silver to dye based which means its not the same as pre 90s TRI-X and is a lot closer to TMAX now.

fs
 
firestorm said:
Is TMAX any good at giving grainy repotage type results if pushed ? I've heard TRI-X formula was changed from a silver to dye based which means its not the same as pre 90s TRI-X and is a lot closer to TMAX now.
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Not sure what you're looking for here, to be honest. TMAX 400 has "T-GRAIN Emulsion " according to the Kodak web site. And also has the characteristic of "being the finest-grained" - so I don't think its likely that you would get TMAX-400 to look like Tri-X. TMAX 3200 might be worth investigating for low light photography. Personally I use and have used Fuji Neopan 400 for most B&W photography for the last 3 or 4 years and it is very flexible. However it is also discontinued which is a problem unless you don't mind buying out of date stuff on ebay.

PS there is definitely silver in the Tri-X formula

PPS Despite what it says on various forums all over the net
 
Cliff,
too much googling is confusing me.

I don't know what I'm looking for either. I've got about 8 Delta 400, 10 Acros 100 and a TMAX 100 to develop. I'm planning to buy some XTOL from SIlverprint and I need to get some more B&W 120 film.

From what I've seen Neopan 400 is excellent - but Fuji has stopped making it in 120. Whats the closest economical alternative ? TRI-X ?

fs
 
firestorm said:
From what I've seen Neopan 400 is excellent - but Fuji has stopped making it in 120. Whats the closest economical alternative ? TRI-X ?

fs
Click to expand...

You might want to try Fomapan 400 at £2.38 per roll from Silverprint, or Rollei Retro 400 - which is a bit more.
 
Tri-X £3.05 a roll (if ordering 10) from 7Day (postage included)
Silverprint sell 2.5 & 5l plastic storage containers. I use a 5l for Xtol and haven't had it go off (though longest I've kept a partially filled container is about 4 months. Got through 5l in 48hours the other week)
 
firestorm said:
I plan to get some bits and pieces from Silverprint, including the XTOL and fixer so I'll see what they have storage bottles-wise.

Looks like pushing Acros 100 is best avoided. I'll get some TMAX 400 and see whats its like at 200. It also gives me the potential of pushing it to 800 or 1600. Is TMAX any good at giving grainy repotage type results if pushed ? I've heard TRI-X formula was changed from a silver to dye based which means its not the same as pre 90s TRI-X and is a lot closer to TMAX now.

fs
Click to expand...

Tri-X is still a beautiful film, and it pushes and pulls brilliantly. It's easily my favourite b&w film.

Here's 35mm Tri-X pulled to 200:

exhibition3.jpg
 
firestorm said:
I plan to get some bits and pieces from Silverprint, including the XTOL and fixer so I'll see what they have storage bottles-wise.

Looks like pushing Acros 100 is best avoided. I'll get some TMAX 400 and see whats its like at 200. It also gives me the potential of pushing it to 800 or 1600. Is TMAX any good at giving grainy repotage type results if pushed ? I've heard TRI-X formula was changed from a silver to dye based which means its not the same as pre 90s TRI-X and is a lot closer to TMAX now.

fs
Click to expand...

Film formulae have always been subject to regular change, without necessarily any public notification.

Ilford's HP5+, in a high acutance developer such as Rodinal that accentuates the grain, would be a good option for reportage. At 1:25 dilution, it will certainly push HP5+ to EI1600. Or try Ilford's Microphen.

Alternatively, TMY (TMax 400), pulled to EI250, and then developed in something like Xtol or Perceptol, will give you a beautifully smooth tonal range, and fine grain.

I'd avoid Fomapan - the manufacturing quality is too variable.
 
Firestorm,

Keep your XTOL in 5 x 1litre bottles as you planned. Even used mineral water bottles are ok, if rinsed out. Full 1L bottles last at least 6 months if kept at an even temperature in the dark.

Best wishes,
Charlie
www.charlie-chan.co.uk
 
Cheers guys, plenty of recommendations and experiences.

I'm going for Kodak XTOL, Tetenal SUPERFIX PLUS Rapid Fixer and a citric acid based stop bath. I've got some Ilford Ilfotol to put in the final rinse.

Wish me luck ...
 
You don't need stop bath unless you particularly want to use it. Just give it a brief wash in water @ the same temp as your chemicals.
 
mentalp said:
5l will do 20 Rolls 120 at 1+1 (Paterson tank with 500 ml mix per Roll)
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Kodak specify a minimum of 100ml of developer per film, and i've stuck with this. My rotary processor uses little fluid per film, so I basically manage to get the 50 film limit out of xtol. Because of this i've hit the 6 month storage limit. Xtol goes yellow when it gets old. It goes off before this though, and you can see a reduction in density well before the yellowing.

I've been planning on doing some tests to see how much oxidation gives an effect, but should probably just chuck chemical after 6 months because it's cheap.
 
I thought an acid stop bath was mandatory, if I can get away with washing with plain water then I'll do so.

I've got more than 15 rolls of 120 and a few 35mm, so thats almost half of the XTOL at 1:1. I've read that you can use it at higher dilutions too "At high dilutions you can expect greater sharpness, more of an S-shaped curve, slightly higher film speed, and slightly coarser grain." I'll try it 1:1 first and see how I get on.

I forgot I need a changing bag too, as I don't have a dark room. More things to buy.
 
firestorm said:
I thought an acid stop bath was mandatory, if I can get away with washing with plain water then I'll do so.
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There are two parts to the stopping process the first part literally neutralizes the developer and the second part rinses it away. Water really only does the second bit on its own. So it depends on how critical your developing times are - some developer stays on the surface of the film after you empty the tank, and the acidic rinse is better (quicker) at stopping it from altering the developed result. If you just use a water rinse, then there is the possibility that the development process continues (although possibly at a very low level) for an indefinite and uncontrolled period of time during the rinsing.

firestorm said:
I forgot I need a changing bag too, as I don't have a dark room. More things to buy.
Click to expand...

just in case you forgot anything else, this is the standard stuff I use for 120 film

- changing bag (1m square)
- two reels and a tank that can accommodate two reels
- thermometer (mainly to check the XTOL temperature)
- 1 litre jug (for measuring and pouring the developer etc) - better to have a few of these than just one that you keep rinsing
- two sets of clips for hanging up the films to dry

(Also for 35mm film a kind of tin opener thing plus a pair of scissors)

- XTOL
- The Kodak Tmax fixer
- citric acid based stop bath
- Foto Flo (or is it PhotoFlo - I can't remember but the bottle lasts a long long time)
- plus, of course, lots of cold running water

PS there are a few good videos on Youtube showing people doing the changing bag stuff - I found this quite useful after a 20 year gap in my developing experiences !!!
 
cliffpatte said:
There are two parts to the stopping process the first part literally neutralizes the developer and the second part rinses it away. Water really only does the second bit on its own. So it depends on how critical your developing times are - some developer stays on the surface of the film after you empty the tank, and the acidic rinse is better (quicker) at stopping it from altering the developed result. If you just use a water rinse, then there is the possibility that the development process continues (although possibly at a very low level) for an indefinite and uncontrolled period of time during the rinsing.
Click to expand...

Water neutralises the developer by diluting it to the point where it is no longer effective. You then rinse it away with a second wash. No development time is that critical; not even colour. Just don't leave it sat for ages before you put the fixer in.
 
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