advertisement


Loupes for stylus inspection etc

Tony L

Tony L

Administrator
24935170738_befb8d8c9d_b.jpg


I have after doing a fair bit of reading around purchased a couple of jewellery loupes. I went for Belomo, who, as with a fair few ex-Soviet brands, have a very good reputation for optics. I I initially went for a 20x (link) which is *very* powerful. Do not confuse a real 20x like this with the cheap Chinese plastic stuff that claims to be 20-30x or whatever, they just aren’t (probably closer to 6-8x at best). The high strength makes the depth of field (the amount in focus) wafer thin, but once you have found the stylus, which can take some doing, the detail is very good if you have a steady hand and the lighting is good. Certainly good enough to spot wear or grubbiness. As I really liked the 20x but found it rather hard to use I also went for a 10x (link) as this one gets real giant-killing reviews, apparently it is as good as many bigger name £100+ magnifiers. To my eyes it is stunning. Really bright sharp image, easy to focus and enough magnification to get a very good idea of the stylus condition. I am pleased I bought both as if anything worried me I can get in closer with the 20x. I’d recommend either or both to our vinyl users, though in hindsight I’d start with the 10x.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Hi tony
I currently use Hilkinsons which are made in Japan and are excellent I too find at times 10x is better but the 20x is superb for seeing very clearly the results of stylus cleaning
 
For anyone questioning the magnifying power of a lens/loupe, working in mm, the power approximates to 250/focal length, so with something in clear focus 10mm from the lens (with your eye very close to the other side of the lens), the lens will be roughly 25x magnification.

This is why, generally, stylus inspection while the cart' is on the tonearm, attached to the deck, is limited to not much greater than 20x - you cannot get much closer than 10-15mm from the stylus in most cases. Add in the depth of field and you start to really struggle above 20x unless the cart' is off the deck/tonearm.
 
I have to admit I hadn’t considered that as I have got so used to a detachable headshell and to be honest wouldn’t want anything fixed again. These loupes focus very close indeed. With the thing held against your eyebrow/eye-socket the item in focus with the 20x is only about 5-7mm from the glass, the 10x is a little more relaxed, but not by much. You’d really need to take the arm off for a good look with a fixed-shell arm (usually only 10-15 minutes work so not necessarily a deal-breaker).
 
Whatever Tony - I wouldn't be without one for stylus inspection - as horrifying as what they reveal often is.
The fact that a stylus that can't be seen for goop at x20 still plays passably well just illustrates how amazing the antique groove and needle technology can be.
 
Interesting, this research of yours, Tony. All those reviews and not one for inspecting styli ! I have 2 rather DIY ones which I inherited, and wonder if these Belomo are sufficiently superior. I have fixed arms, and find that I can get close enough to the stylus to see any foreign bodies and the dust on the cantilever, but not to see the profile and wear condition. It would seem that the 20X is a pain to hold steady sufficiently to focus, but I wonder just how much the 10X does reveal. Really don't like getting closer than, say, 1 to 1.5 cms. with my glasses off.

I'm okay with inspection for cleaning, but if the Belomo offers insight into condition.............
 
I have x2 and x10 which I use frequently. I also have a USB microscope which takes photographs as well. The microscope is better than the loupe when inspecting styli, taking a photo is very useful, re comparisions. (the usb microscope was aboot £50 from Maplins years ago, also good for entertaining grand-children, sticking it up noses, ears and into your mouth and taking disgusting photos. priceless)
 
I’d say these are pretty useless if the cart is still on the deck. I just tried and I can get something kind of usable out of the 10x in this context, I could certainly tell if there was gunk on the tip, but far less useful than having it held properly close against my eye socket. The 20x is not really usable at all.

I also have one of the cheap USB microscopes, in fact I hae two - an Intel kids one and some cheap Chinese item off eBay, similar to this one, though I’m not saying exactly the same. This is the best I’ve been able to get from either:

32754876880_ccccb69e43_b.jpg


That is (almost, it is a bit inaccurately framed) the front elevation of my 540/II and is the sort of view one needs to check for wear, i.e. you can see there is absolutely no unevenness or ‘shouldering’ (it was only a week or so old when I took the pic, though it still looks about the same now). I can see things far clearer via the loupes, as much as anything as it is in ‘real time’ and one can alter the perspective, move relative to the light source etc. The view from the loupes is just sharper and clearer, as one would expect the optics and resolution are in a different league even if the magnification is similar. Again bare in mind I have a detachable headshell so can view it next to the window or wherever the light is best and move it around easily. I’d still recommend these to fixed shell users, but to consider it as say a once a year arm-off the deck wear inspection rather than just seeing if it needs a good clean the way I do.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
My Avatar is a photo of grooves in vinyl taken by a USB microscope. Prize for anyone guessing which one ?
Checking stylus condition with one is fairly useless as mentioned.
 
Mine arrived today - really cool, I can tell straight away that the 2M red I have has a little glue on the cantilever, that the worn Asaka I purchased recently does indeed look worn, and that my original Asaka (that I thought was worn out) is likely just in need of a good clean - stylus tip looks good, but build of gunk where stylus joins cantilever. How do I best remove this? I normally use an AT-637, which hasn't stopped this build up - I also have the AT 607 fluid, but rarely use it. Maybe it is time to try wet cleaning?

Thanks, Richard
 
The AT fluid applied to the vibrating pad should shift it. May take a couple of goes, but I’ve not found anything it can’t clean yet.
 
I use a stereo microscope which I picked up on ebay for about £35. I can then use both hands for the delicate work.
 
Careful if you have an ally cantilever, Richard, and probably even a boron one. I'm hesitant about using fluid on my AT. Even though I have fixed headshells, I use a small truncated artist's brush to clean manually with the help of a loupe. Best and safest results are with the cart. off the arm, holding it in one hand with the cantilever down.
 
I just attacked my original Asaka with a stiff brush, tweezers (!) and the loupe. It now looks almost new to my untrained eye - will mount it on my Pioneer PL-51/ Rb250 now I think to give it a go.

Problem seemed to be microscopic fibres around the stylus, leading to a build up of gunk. Studying with loupe, then naked eye and judicial use of tweezers to remove each fibre had it clean in 15 mins.

Thanks! If this works, it just saved me a re-tip on the original Asaka!

Richard
 
Haha - I just used the AT fluid on a cotton bud and the 637 to tackle the worn out Asaka I bought as well - it looked like it had rust all over the cantilever and stylus...all gone now :) It may still be worn of course, but I’ll be trying it before sending for a re-tip!

Can’t believe a decent 10x loupe lets me see stuff I just can’t with my naked eyes!

Richard
 
It is great isn’t it! The 20x obviously get in closer again, but it is way, way harder to use (darker, needs to be held closer, next to no depth of field etc) and I’m not convinced it is actually any more use. The 10x is bright, clear, lets you see enough to see every bit of crap on the tip and to make a good guesstimate as to tip condition, i.e. you’ll certainly spot any chips or shouldering/unevenness. The key view for assessing wear is obviously head-on and really you are looking for differences on each side of the tip as styli seldom wear evenly due to the vagueness of anti-skate etc.
 
Yes, and thanks again. Sounds obvious looking from front on...but I hadn’t thought about it :) Just checked, all looks good to my eyes - will find out soon :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top