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Look what the cat dragged in (two Garrards)

afewbeers said:
Sondek, I should have edited that post. i went upstairs and came down thinking it was a pointless thing to say. There's an old saying, if you haven't got anything good to say then say nothing.
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I sometimes pop into a guitar forum in the USA where everyone is so polite and protective that the blandness can be quite nauseating.
I like different opinions too, because I'm genuinely interested to know what people think. I like honesty. I'm sure we're all man enough.
Dammit, say what you think - don't apologise.

It has a Dansette vibe about it....I like it.

Is one of those decks a Technics linear tracking deck?
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Or do as Joe and my mother would do, use tact and then subtly change the subject. :D
 
Joe said:
It has a Dansette vibe about it....I like it.
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Good - that's the whole point. I wanted to pick up on the aspects of the deck which tell you it was introduced in 1953 and produced until 1965.

Is one of those decks a Technics linear tracking deck?
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Yes - it's an SL-10 with the legendary stock EPC-310MC moving coil cartridge. Weighs a ton, built like a tank, superb specs, linear tracking that works, plays on its side, sounds superb. No slouch.
 
Rasher said:
I sometimes pop into a guitar forum in the USA where everyone is so polite and protective that the blandness can be quite nauseating.
I like different opinions too, because I'm genuinely interested to know what people think. I like honesty. I'm sure we're all man enough.
Dammit, say what you think - don't apologise.
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Exactly. If you despise it, please feel free to say so. I too hate bland forums where everybody feels they have to be nice. The homophobe comment was supposed to be satire, btw.
 
Rasher said:
How would you go about doing a chrome one?
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You could spray it with one of those expensive powdered metal sprayers. Once you had put on quite a thick layer you could polish and plate and polish. Of course, it might be possible to anodise/plate directly, but solvent, e.g. water would soak into the woodwork and might play havoc with expansion/warping.
 
Still no suggestions for colour apart from chrome, which is a very interesting one.

I promise not to blame you if you suggest a colour for the second plinth and it ends up looking like shit. The decision will be mine after all. I'm contemplating blood red. Or maybe a teal blue.
 
If it has to be a solid colour then I would go for a cream to match the 301 chassis.
It's retro still and you could finish it with some chrome strips running horizontally like a 50s valve radio.
You could even go really mad and give the plinth the heavy relic treatment;

tn1_51042.jpg
 
I am interested to find out how it sounds. I am wavering between high and low mass motorboards for my recently acquired 401. Both methods have their supporters, perhaps both are right.
 
A needledrop comparison of the same motor/arm/cartridge mounted in a slate and a ply plinth would certainly be interesting.
 
sonddek said:
Holy crap - just looked on the Loricraft web site and saw that a typical 301 rebuild is usually 2200 quid. That's put a spanner in the works.
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Are you sure about that cost? I paid about £340 for a complete rebuild of mine (but I already had a Loricraft plinth and dust cover). Have you telephoned Terry at Loricraft to confirm this?
 
I think that's to buy one outright, but yes, I was toying with the idea too until I saw that.
That was the point when the world fell out of my bottom.
 
My gay picnic refurb has cost me less than 100 quid, I would guess, so I don't think it can be beat on budget.
 
gortnipper said:
I would love to hear that.

Have you seen Candy?

http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=118.0
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Very interesting project. Red is quite nice. However, I am extremely skeptical about the idea of putting deck and arm on separate plinths. I understand it's supposed to isolate the arm from motor noise, but rigid linkage between arm and platter bearing would seem to me to be absolutely crucial to accurate reproduction, regardless of motor noise. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if that method of isolation didn't make the motor noise problem worse. I think the goal must be extreme rigidity between arm mount and motor unit, and adequate mass/structure in the plinth to absorb motor noise. Still, the proof of the pudding should always be in the ABX testing. There doesn't seem to be too much of that going on, so I'm resolved to do my own, even if it takes years.
 
The ideal is to have the arm fixed in a rigid geometric relationship with the rest of the deck, but to achieve this in such a fashion that it is decoupled from vibrations across a nominal 5hz to 20khz+.

Obviously this isn't a trivial conundrum.

I'd be interested to see what could be achieved with some sort labyrinthine separation between arm and motor.
 
sq225917 said:
The ideal is to have the arm fixed in a rigid geometric relationship with the rest of the deck, but to achieve this in such a fashion that it is decoupled from vibrations across a nominal 5hz to 20khz+.

Obviously this isn't a trivial conundrum.
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Precisely. Rigidity and sound absorption are mutually exclusive goals.

I'd be interested to see what could be achieved with some sort labyrinthine separation between arm and motor.
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I think the only hope is to use a spectrum of materials, in a rigidly glued sandwich. Each material will tend to absorb different frequencies and the dissonance of their resonances should make it harder for sound energy to reach the arm. I'm thinking of slate under the motor unit, with a ply, metal and mdf sandwich before an acrylic arm plinth, all held together with stiff glue. It could reflect sound back into the motor plinth while being very rigidly attached.
 
I largely agree. My 401 has a solid deck, with a glued layered ply sandwich sub plinth. The differences in before/after were non trivial.

In addition, I believe that Shindo 301s use a rigidly glued cherry wood plinth, sitting on a slate sub-plinth. The slate itself is a rigidly coupled (pressure vs glue) "sandwich" of layers of stone.

I only send the Candy link as a reference to your desire for red! :) not as a proponent of decoupling the arm.
 
gortnipper said:
In addition, I believe that Shindo 301s use a rigidly glued cherry wood plinth, sitting on a slate sub-plinth. The slate itself is a rigidly coupled (pressure vs glue) "sandwich" of layers of stone.
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Interesting. I was thinking of having the layers vertical so that they form a wall of different materials between the motor and arm base. A twelve inch arm would help of course. Bolt the deck into a ply top layer with progressively heavier layers beneath. Glued onto the side would be thin layers of mdf, acrylic, and then slate. That would make it hard for sound to get across to the arm since the materials would be progressively denser in that direction. An enclosed cavity in each of the layers towards the arm would reduce surface area of contact while maintaining torsional rigidity. A plan is coming together.
 
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