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If you were really picky about aesthetics a little filler and sanding on top would fill the dip prior to priming and painting. With a little effort you could get it looking original.

PS FWIW I’ve clearly not understood the issue here. The Stereo 20 chassis is ground. The signal return is ground. The schematic says it is ground. All of the black ground wires go back to a case screw on one of the big can cap mounting lugs. Everything continuity beeps to the earth pin on the mains plug anyway. Leak grounded the capacitor can, and very deliberately so by the looks of things. I was actually a bit worried by not doing so on my TL12 Plus rebuild, though left the F&T cap plastic skin on as I was mounting it internally and wanted to be sure it couldn’t short anywhere in any scenario even if it became loose (which it won’t!). As ever my aim is only to sympathetically restore. I have no interest in second-guessing or “improving” these classics.
Tony, I'm not convinced that the original caps' cans were grounded through their clamps.

PXL_20220402_152157600~2 by Garf Arf, on Flickr

Looks to be too much paint on the cans.
 
Tony, I'm not convinced that the original caps' cans were grounded through their clamps.

PXL_20220402_152157600~2 by Garf Arf, on Flickr

Looks to be too much paint on the cans.

That is a good point. I don’t know. That said the same would apply to the can caps in the Stereo 20 I restored upthread as they had some filler, a good coat of primer and two coats of top-coat. I didn’t make any attempt to scratch back paint etc. As stated my intention is restoration, nothing more. I just try to do things how they were, and where possible undo past less-sympathetic restoration attempts.
 
Has anyone here actually heard one of these valvepower amps?

Given that the difference between them and the English Acoustics version is around £4k, I am interested as a prospective Stereo 20 buyer (who has not the foggiest about valve amps and has never owned one before, apart from the preamp in his Eden bass head....).
 


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