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Introducing the PowerReg

1. They are small in size
2. Their impedance/frequency curve is relatively flat, that is their impedance don't rise dramatically at high frequencies which makes them a good fit for paralleling a ceramic capacitor without oscillation/ringing risk
Click to expand...

OK :) That makes sense to me...since I am impressionable I might as well become a Tant fan!

Gratefully yours,
M
 
I've just received my Gainclone kit and I'm ready to send away for the few components I lack to build the PowerRegs to go with.
Is the circuit the same as the positive provided I face the + of the tantals to -neg ground (and the obvious substitution of LM337) or are there any other changes to be made?
If so, I'd appreciate a negative schematics lest I burn another bunch of components.
Cheers wise man
 
Be aware that the PowerRegs are more complicated to build than the TeddyReg as there are three transistors instead of two, and since I wanted to use the small protoyping PCB two of the transistors (the power and it's driver) are interconnected outside the PCB.

Besides that, note that for the negative PowerReg you need different transistors than the positive PowerReg. Follow the TeddyReg howto thread for details.

And last, as this regulator deals with high currents you need a good heat-sink. You may want to get yourself some extra transistors as if you make a mistake they can be damaged easily.
 
Teddy -I just built you TeddyReg and I'm about to use it.Also-I have a Marchand electronic crossover that I would like to use with your PS .I've heard that more current capability is usually better.Your post above states you will be using the PowerReg for your crossover.Generaly speaking-PowerReg possible better?
I etched my own TeddyReg this week!Still tweakin'.
Mike
 
Which current do you need for the crossover? Usually they don't need more than preamps, and in this case the TeddyReg is better. In my case I use the PowerReg to power a power amplifier, and the same powerregs will also feed TeddyRegs that will feed the active crossovers.
 
The regs in there now are LM317's for 16 OPA2134's plus the relays.If I'm using .250 amps that's probably more than enough.I need to measure it.
 
In this case I think that a TeddyReg will do a better job. Depending on the total dropout you may need a heatsink. I think that with over 5V dropout they'll get hot...
 
At last! I built my first chipamp with PowerRegs (BC550/560 instead of JFet). I built it for my eldest daughter, for her to enjoy music "comme il faut" but I am considering seriously to keep it :), so good it sounds...after 3 hours of warm-up it changed from "not bad" to "unbelievable".

The best part is price :) as the stereo board with two LM3886 costs US$26 at http://eshop.diyclub.biz/index.php?cPath=1_205_150_22_203

A photo of the test setup:

http://picasaweb.google.com/maxlorenz24/TeddyReg

I think we can't thank Teddy enough for the development of both these Regs. I am in the process of changing all my regs for them.

A humble contribution from my part (at least I expect it is unknown here), which I have not tested on power opamps but on opamps for DAC output, is the one consisting in opamp compensation for capacitive loading. The detailed explanation obviously escapes my limited "capacity" but useful links can be found here:

http://64.233.169.104/search?q=cach...ing&hl=es&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=cl&client=firefox-a

http://www.analog.com/Analog_Root/s...ols/interactiveTools/stability/stability.html

This tweak was recommended to me by -ecdesigns-, from DIYaudio.com, and it is easy to implement: just solder a resistor between signal inputs (+) and (-) , whose value must be five times the value of the Feedback R, for best sound. In power amps an RC must be soldered, C being at least (?) 680nF. In one reference I found "as large as feasible" as a value. I don't know which reference is better. Resistor shall be a good metal-film R and that C shall be a film cap.
Any opinions on this tweak for chipamps will be very welcome.
The effect on "signal path opamps" is quite welcome, and was described by the "discoverer" as " the warm, lush sound of discrete circuits but with the detail and speed of opamps". Soft, colorful sound, without hard edges.

I hope you like it.
Thanks again,
M.
"TeddyRegs Fan"
 
Congratulations for building your first powerReg. I completed this week building my active crossovers and will post pictures soon.

BTW, I found that using good quality components (resistors) for the gainclone makes a big difference. Mine sounds now better than any power amp I tried so far. And as you said, the price is...

Cheers, Teddy
 
Hi Teddy.

About resistors, the same fellow, -ecdesigns-, told me that the most transparent R are those with the lower Temperature coefficient. I found some relativelly cheap ones which have 50 to 25ppm/°C. The better, at 15ppm/°C or less, are expensive (but for a few R...)
I was fond of Riken-Ohm to color de signal but they are high T°coeff. I still use a few 1W units, though...

I will, as time allows, power my "My reference" amp with your PowerReg, as it is said that it betters any gainclone in stock form.

http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/revc/revc.aspx
The link has some other links to descriptions of the project.

Cheers,
M
 
Dear Teddy,
Just for curiosity and for impressing my snob brother, what amp(s) have you compared your gainclone to???
(here I have only DIY amps)

Thanks,
Mauricio.
 
Would anyone that's built these on strip-board be kind enough to post some close up pictures of the front and back of the positive and negative PowerRegs with a parts list and final schematic.

Many thanks.

Regards,

Mus
 
I really am trying not to be a pest but....

Is the following a correct schematic for the negative power reg? All I have done is reverse the NPN and PNPs at the end.

TeddyNegpowerregsvematic.jpg


Thanks for your patience.
 
new naim boy said:
Is the following a correct chematic for the negative power reg? All I have done is to reverse the NPN and PNPs at the end.

Thanks for your patience.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sorting this out, NNB. Have you built one and do you have the stripboard layout?

Has anyone taken any detailed pictures of both sides of a built +/- PowerReg? Any PCB layouts floating around? Don't be shy, post them up...

Regards,

Mus
 
I haven't built one yet but plan on building quite a few combined +/- versions. So a pcb is going to make the job easier. I'll work on a pcb or strip board plan when I am certain of the schematic.
 
Hi,
My PowerRegulated chipamp used a pot as passive pre.
Weeks ago, I installed a simple class A preamp, called Project 37 from Elliot Sound Products (ESP), made from left overs, powered from a 18V TeddyReg that I connected to the PowerReg (+) output. This was my first discrete amp circuit ever...I can say that adding this active pre made the sound even better, more robust, more present, better rhythm...etc. Better bass makes the soundstage deeper. Now I have to make another pre with better parts and possibly avoiding output cap...
Some picks (follow the arrow):

http://picasaweb.google.com/maxlorenz24/TeddyReg/photo#5222339549599919042

Thanks Teddy, again.
M
 
Dear Teddy,

You know I'm a big fan :)
I'm having great fun with your regulators. :D
Before I build my next Front and Back loaded horns for fullrange driver I am making an amp contest. One of the contenders is the following Mosfet Class A amp, which produces 5W (peak):

http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/ZCA/ZCA.htm

Instead of the choke I built the PS with a PowerReg:

http://picasaweb.google.com/maxlorenz24/SINGLEENDEDCLASSAMOSFETAMP/photo#5231511307429040450

PS ripple is around 2mV.
It gets quite hot but sounds very sweet ;) I'm gonna pull down the Vin with some resistor to increase its life expectancy. I hope you like it...

Best regards,
M
 
teddy_pardo said:
Components are

R1 = 3.4K
R2 = 150R
R3 = 40-60K
R4 = not required
R5 = 40-60K
R6 = 100-250R

C1 = 0.1uF X7R Ceramic (optional)
C2 = 10-20uF Tantalum
C3 = 10-20uF Tantalum
C4 = 33uF Tantalum
C5 = 0.2-0.3uF X7R Ceramic
C6 = 10-20uF Tantalum/Oscon

T1 = SK117 GR
T2 = BC550C
T3 = D45H11
LR1 = LM317
Click to expand...

Stuffing my Neil's PowerReg boards now. Just a few questions if anybody can help please.

1. R4 is marked 'not required' above but there is provision for it on the board and in Neil's BOM - '40-60K'.

2. R3 is also 40-60K. Are they dependent on the adjust values or on what is available in your parts box?
 
cromodora said:
Stuffing my Neil's PowerReg boards now. Just a few questions if anybody can help please.

1. R4 is marked 'not required' above but there is provision for it on the board and in Neil's BOM - '40-60K'.

2. R3 is also 40-60K. Are they dependent on the adjust values or on what is available in your parts box?
Click to expand...

Ismail - Perhaps I shouldn't have to avoid any confusion, but I changed the resistor numbering on the PowerReg boards omitting the original R4 in order to keep the numbering consecutive. So my R4 is Teddy's R5 and my R5 is Teddy's R6. I then simply continued the counting for the negative side of the board.

As for values - I believe it's whatever you have - though I'm sure Teddy will be along soon to confirm.

Hope this helps. Neil

PS - The Chinese boards may be working now!
 
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