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DIY Voyager mono block build

Dan K said:
I was hoping for something that doesn't require an additional PSU. Any suggestions?
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You could still use the VBE with a common supply to each stage it won't be as good as an isolated separate supply but you could add that later.
The basic VBE has a voltage drop of about 2-3V I think from memory.
 
GWM said:
You could still use the VBE with a common supply to each stage it won't be as good as an isolated separate supply but you could add that later.
The basic VBE has a voltage drop of about 2-3V I think from memory.
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Would the VBE work off a shared Cap6? I could squeeze one into my 110 case :D
 
You are not going to get the best out of it unless you have a separate transformer.
You could just use a VBE to feed the front end but you should have a slightly higher voltage for the input stage to avoid it clipping first.

Pete
 
divedeepdog said:
Would the VBE work off a shared Cap6? I could squeeze one into my 110 case :D
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Yes I can't see any reason why not check with Les to confirm, you will get an improved lower noise supply to the voltage stage which is the main benefit this circuit has relatively poor PSSR.You won't get the complete isolation with a separate supply.
 
Pete MB&D said:
You are not going to get the best out of it unless you have a separate transformer.
You could just use a VBE to feed the front end but you should have a slightly higher voltage for the input stage to avoid it clipping first.

Pete
Click to expand...

Not sure how you could clip the inlet stage in this situation
 
Rather than lead this one too far off, I'll get stuck into the questions with the VBE build thread, but for now;

I'm Bi'amping with NCC's, one tightly squeezed pair with front and back PS, and mono 110's with Naim TX + cap6. I like the look of the shoebox's, the addition of VBE's may be the icing on the cake if they'll fit.
 
Those shoebox cases really do look the part. If you're building monos you might just get one channel into two shoebox cases?
 
Dan K said:
I was hoping for something that doesn't require an additional PSU. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

It's easy to add a few extra windings in series with the main windings to toroids, for a few extra volts for the front end supply (I never buy centre potted ones for ths reason).
 
Hey not so fast Alan.

I would have jumped in sooner but work work work made Jack a Dull boy:D

I have a few questions.

Did you sort out the issue with one of your VBE? Was it by chance on the same side as the diode failed on your NCC200 board?

I’ve also had a thought about the initial brightness that you reported earlier.

I’ve used those Tant resistors quite a few times with Tube stuff and from new they can sound a little bright or harsh even. They do take some time to settle after which they are much much smoother so give them time.

Another question.

Those Dale Mil spec resistors that you’ve used for most of the board. Are they 1/2W?

I’m planning another build with the new NCC200 boards after Xmas and plan on the lovely red PRP types. Also Charcroft naked foils for the front end.

Yup your build has re inspired me.

ATB
 
The Dales are a good choice for this amp I use them everywhere, they are funky sounding and help with the foot tapping thing, I have used charcrofts in the 2 feedback positions they do sound nice but value for money is marginal best to sort everything else out first and add the extra icing when every thing else is done.
 
GWM said:
The Dales are a good choice for this amp I use them everywhere, they are funky sounding and help with the foot tapping thing, I have used charcrofts in the 2 feedback positions they do sound nice but value for money is marginal best to sort everything else out first and add the extra icing when every thing else is done.
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Hi Geoff

Yes good points but I already have a working set of Voyager Mono’s and was just thinking on the next potential build with the new NCC200 boards.

As you say the Dales are very good resistors and yes I’m tempted to plunge right in with them.:cool:

I’ve used the Charcrofts and Texas before and find that they open up the sound quite nicely but need plenty of time to really sing. A little better than the original box Vishay to my ears.

So I have standard now it’s time to do things a little differently as Alan has done to good effect with His super Build.
 
shoom said:
Hey not so fast Alan.

I would have jumped in sooner but work work work made Jack a Dull boy:D

I have a few questions.

Did you sort out the issue with one of your VBE? Was it by chance on the same side as the diode failed on your NCC200 board?

I’ve also had a thought about the initial brightness that you reported earlier.

I’ve used those Tant resistors quite a few times with Tube stuff and from new they can sound a little bright or harsh even. They do take some time to settle after which they are much much smoother so give them time.

Another question.

Those Dale Mil spec resistors that you’ve used for most of the board. Are they 1/2W?

I’m planning another build with the new NCC200 boards after Xmas and plan on the lovely red PRP types. Also Charcroft naked foils for the front end.

Yup your build has re inspired me.

ATB
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Hi Shaun
Yeah the VBE fault was just a 1/4W resistor and has been fine since being replaced. Don't know why it failed as everything else was fine ?.

The voyagers are rock solid now and sounding sweet any slight brightness has gone now ;)
I do like the dale resistors as the are smooth sounding and all of the ones I used here are just 1/4W
I also like the tantalum resistors and used them in my Paradise phono for the RIAA section and a foil resistor for the loading, I think you are right that they are a bit bright at first but they settle down after a week or so and become very transparent

Alan
 
337alant said:
Hi Shaun
Yeah the VBE fault was just a 1/4W resistor and has been fine since being replaced. Don't know why it failed as everything else was fine ?.

The voyagers are rock solid now and sounding sweet any slight brightness has gone now ;)
I do like the dale resistors as the are smooth sounding and all of the ones I used here are just 1/4W
I also like the tantalum resistors and used them in my Paradise phono for the RIAA section and a foil resistor for the loading, I think you are right that they are a bit bright at first but they settle down after a week or so and become very transparent

Alan
Click to expand...

Good to hear Alan

1/4W mmmmmmm.

It’s my Birthday soon and now I know what I’ll be getting which kind of kills the surprise a little but hey ho.

Another trip to mouser coming up.:D

Yup I used the dales throughout my Paradise build With Mil spec ones for the RIAA and as you say very good indeed. For the load resistor I have Charcroft just dead quiet with a wisp of his and no hum at all.

‘’I think you are right that they are a bit bright at first but they settle down after a week or so and become very transparent’’

Yes a nice sounding unit.

‘’Don't know why it failed as everything else was fine?’’

It happens and all part of the fun.:cool:

Good work
 
337alant said:
Hi Shaun
Yeah the VBE fault was just a 1/4W resistor and has been fine since being replaced. Don't know why it failed as everything else was fine ?.

The voyagers are rock solid now and sounding sweet any slight brightness has gone now ;)
I do like the dale resistors as the are smooth sounding and all of the ones I used here are just 1/4W
I also like the tantalum resistors and used them in my Paradise phono for the RIAA section and a foil resistor for the loading, I think you are right that they are a bit bright at first but they settle down after a week or so and become very transparent

Alan
Click to expand...

Alan, why use a quarter watt resistor when a half watt will do? There's plenty of room on the VBE board for half watt or .6 watt resistors and that's what I've used.
Now that I have my own Voyagers back I've been able to give them a bit of a workout over the last few days. I not that happy with them tbh. They've been well used over the last couple of years so should be well settled by now but I still find them a touch strident when I turn up the wick. I had them partnered with my valve pre this afternoon after a day with the B4 but I was still aware of some hardness in the sound. I've gone back to my valve amps this evening and harmony is restored. I must say though that the bass authority of the Voyagers is outstanding. My valve amps are a bit below par in comparison though they make up for it everywhere else. I think I prefer my more basic Naim 120 monos tbh. I have another pair of blank NCC boards so I might consider building up another pair with more carefully chosen components once I've finished the VBEs.
 
''Alan, why use a quarter watt resistor when a half watt will do? There's plenty of room on the VBE board for half watt or .6 watt resistors and that's what I've used.''

The Dales tend to be much bigger compared to standard resistors. A 1/2W Dale would struggle to fit the resistor pitch on the board.

Can I ask if you are using a film IP cap on your NCC200’s?

I have tants for the IP and feedback caps. Harsh is a light year away from the sound that I have.

It may be worth having a play with that especially the IP cap as a little fine tuning never hurts and may help.

Tube amps which ones do you have? PP/SE

And which Valve pre?
 
There was an interesting article in Linear Audio Vol 1 in non linearity of various makes of resistors and the Dale RN65D was used as the reference
It showed the generation of harmonic distortion generally over the bandwidth of 100 to 10k, article was written by g Scott Wurcer, designer of the AD797 opamp from Analogue devices :rolleyes:

Alan
 
I can see the Dales are quite big but there are none in Alan's VBEs, just ordinary metal films.
Yes I'm using a film cap at the input of my NCCs atm in place of the original tant. It certainly hasn't made the sound any worse. All other components are to Avondale spec. The boards are quite old now and I didn't build them hence my comment about building another pair with carefully selected components.
Tube amps are Jolidas Music Envoys and the pre is a Rosenblit Grounded Grid.
 
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