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DIY Voyager mono block build

337alant

Negatively Biased
Following on from Shrooms excellent build and many others here before I Finally got round to starting my build of a pair of monoblock amplifiers based on the Avondale Voyagers
I have been using the NCC200 amplifers for a few years now and also built some voyager clones by Hacker ( the Hackernap amplifirer).
All of these amps are based on the 1960s RCA power amplifier circuit that NAIM also used in all of their Chrome Bumper amplifiers
Its a tried an tested design that provides an excellent solid state power amplifier that sounds fast clean with high transient performance, the sound can be tailored to your taste particularly by the choice of components with the feedback and input cap having a significant effect on the voicing of the amplifier., NAIM chose solid tantalum capacitors for these caps and that gave their amps that fast clean sound with an upfront presentation, some find their sound initially impressive but fatiguing in the long term, if you use film caps the sound will be a lot smoother and sweeter but can lack the excellent bass impact of the tantalums. My own preference is to use a Military spec Wet tantalum capacitor bye passed with either a 100nf polypropylene or polystyrene capacitor this retains all the speed and dynamics of the solid tant but sweetens the treble and still retains the excellent bass performance but also with a 3 dimensional image.

So for this build the amplifier modules are the excellent Avondale NCC200 amplifiers V 1.4 built using Dale RN60 resistors throughout except for resistors in the signal path which are Audio Note tantalum resistors, matched transistors are used throughout and Capacitors are all high quality Polypropylene, polystyrene, silver Mica and military spec wet tantalum types.
The Power supply is divided into two sections the input & VAS section and the output section which ideally have different needs in a 3 stage power amplifier, some amps just supply a raw supply to all 3 states such as the Naim Nap 90,110,140,160, 180 range which used the same power amplifier board with different power supply’s, or a regulated supply to all three stages such as the Naim Nap 250 but neither of these is ideal and the front end requires a quiet Regulated Constant current supply but the output is ideally supplied with a raw high current delivery supply.
So on this amp the input section has a 42-0-42V x 50va C core transformer, followed by rectification and smoothing from a Cap 6 module using Q-speed 6amp ultra fast Diodes and 6 x 4700uf Rubicon smoothing caps with a 6.8ohm-2W resistor in between to provide ripple reduction, the front end needs a regulated constant current supply so a VBE regulator supply is used

The output section needs an raw unregulated supply to provide high current delivery this provide the speed, dynamics and transient performance so no regulation is used here as this can strangle transient performance. The output is supplied from a 35-0-35V x 500VA C core transformer, with rectification and smoothing supplied again by a Cap6 module using Q Speed 30A rectifiers and 5 x 6800UF Kendiel Capacitors with a 10mh inductor between them.
Speaker protection is supplied by the velleman K4700 modules
Everything is housed in the excellent Modushop all aluminium pesante dissapante cases http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/cat079_l2.php?n=1

Hopefully I will get most of this done this work done this week before I have to go back to work but I am still waiting for some parts so ? :rolleyes:

basic layout in the case and there is loads of space
IMG_1310 by 337alant, on Flickr

IMG_1309 by 337alant, on Flickr

This where I am up to with the amplifier modules, I am still waiting for all of the transistors and some caps.

I may be being a bit anal here but I have 3 different 100uf / 100v caps to use for the power rail decoupling, by Elna, Panasonic FC and the rubicon ZL all are very good with the Rubicon has the lowest ESR and fits perfectly any preference on which I should use?

IMG_1324 by 337alant, on Flickr

IMG_1325 by 337alant, on Flickr


Will update as I make progress :D

Final Version of Voyager

Voy 5 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Voy 6 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Voy 4 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Voy 1 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Voyager and Hackernap together
IMG_2232 by Alan Towell, on Flickr

Youtube video of first listen with one amp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJfuDiUPgiM
Alan
 
Goody, an amp build. :)

I'm a bit out of touch with caps, so I can't help you. I have cheap and nasty caps on the decoupling the power rail...do you mean I can make it sound better...:)

I prefer the wet tants too in the fb. I'll have to try small bipass cap.

Good luck...it is a fabulous amp.
 
Shame you haven't decided to use Les's psu boards Alan. When I get my Voyagers back that's the first thing on the to do list, rip out those HackerCaps and replace them with the real deal. I have a couple of NJ projects on the go and those HackerCaps will get put to good use.
 
I have film caps on my Hackernaps rails its an improvement over electrolytics.

Pete
 
Shame you haven't decided to use Les's psu boards Alan. When I get my Voyagers back that's the first thing on the to do list, rip out those HackerCaps and replace them with the real deal. I have a couple of NJ projects on the go and those HackerCaps will get put to good use.

I don't think there is that much in it TBH I have 4 original Cap6 boards built by Avondale and they have 5600uf / 100v Nippon chemicon caps and MBR20200CTG diodes and my hackercaps have 6800 / 63V Kendiels and 30A QSpeed Diodes and I actually preferred the Hackercaps but I don't think its the board its the commination of diode and cap and I think the Kendiel / Qspeed sound a bit cleaner and faster
The minicap6 may be better though I haven't tried them
Just thinking now though I went and bought 100v caps for the front end supply and these cap6 boards already had them in :rolleyes: EHaw


Alan
 
Nice work Alan

I’m looking forward to seeing your build develop and finding out how things should be done.:cool:

Good luck with the build which is well worth the effort for the SQ you’ll end up with.:D
 
I've heard very positive comments about the V1.4, and of course the heart of Witchat amps.
Following closely ;-)
 
I don't think there is that much in it TBH I have 4 original Cap6 boards built by Avondale and they have 5600uf / 100v Nippon chemicon caps and MBR20200CTG diodes and my hackercaps have 6800 / 63V Kendiels and 30A QSpeed Diodes and I actually preferred the Hackercaps but I don't think its the board its the commination of diode and cap and I think the Kendiel / Qspeed sound a bit cleaner and faster
The minicap6 may be better though I haven't tried them
Just thinking now though I went and bought 100v caps for the front end supply and these cap6 boards already had them in :rolleyes: EHaw


Alan


I was thinking more for originality, keeping it all Avondale and a true Voyager Alan. My own Voyagers have four HackerCaps doing psu duties atm but I'm going to go with MiniCaps for the front end and Cap6 boards for the output. I also have Les's frame transformers and original VBEs. Have you tried those new VBE boards yet?
 
I was thinking more for originality, keeping it all Avondale and a true Voyager Alan. My own Voyagers have four HackerCaps doing psu duties atm but I'm going to go with MiniCaps for the front end and Cap6 boards for the output. I also have Les's frame transformers and original VBEs. Have you tried those new VBE boards yet?
Ah I see what you mean now and yes that would be nice.
Don't know if Les does the Cap6 boards now Si ?, I don't see them on his web site.
Did you use a soft start on yours?.

Alan
 
Nice work Alan

I’m looking forward to seeing your build develop and finding out how things should be done.:cool:

Good luck with the build which is well worth the effort for the SQ you’ll end up with.:D

Thanks Shaun getting there slowly :), its surprising how much time this stuff eats up in the day.
How have yours settle in then are they sounding good ?.


Alan
 
Made some more progress on the NCC200 boards today and almost populated now but I am short of the heat sinks for the output drivers I had 2 but cant find them anywhere ?, ordered some more from Les

The transistors and Polystyrene caps arrived this morning so measured them all and installed them
Made up the output inductors, 16 turns of transformer wire on a 6mm drill, and 15 Ohm x 2W Kiwame resistor used
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/kiwame.html

voyager 2 by 337alant, on Flickr

Fitted the output transistors to the VBE boards

Found some Nichicon Fine Gold 100uf x 63V caps for the rail decoupling caps so fitted them as well

voyager 1 by 337alant, on Flickr
Ill have to start doing some case work tomorrow

Alan
 
Les had bare Cap boards last time I was there Alan. Maybe worth a phone call.
I don't use a soft start, just a bog standard rotary on off switch. I only use 300VA trannies though. My mate Hugh has 500VAs in his and no soft start either. I think it only becomes a problem if it's all in one case unlike ours which are monos.
 
Les had bare Cap boards last time I was there Alan. Maybe worth a phone call.
I don't use a soft start, just a bog standard rotary on off switch. I only use 300VA trannies though. My mate Hugh has 500VAs in his and no soft start either. I think it only becomes a problem if it's all in one case unlike ours which are monos.
Good point Si, yes only half the load on the switch.
If Les has some bare cap6 boards I would be interested as they are very good quality boards.
I could desolder the ones I have but that isn't easy with those big caps and its so easy to lift a track
I recently bought a Hot air solder gun which does make that process much easier I desoldered some parts form an old VBE board today and the parts just fell out as you can heat up multiple legs at once :)

Alan
 
Watching with interest as I hope in the not to distant future to be following yours and shoom's lead and turning my NCC amp into a pair of Voyager monoblocks.
Neat work Alan.
 
Thanks Shaun getting there slowly :), its surprising how much time this stuff eats up in the day.
How have yours settle in then are they sounding good ?.


Alan

Hi Alan

Yes it took me around two weeks to complete my build but worth every second of the time spent.:cool:

Sounding superb.

Powerfull, punchy and dynamic with plenty of detail.

I’m using my DIY version of Les’s 821A pre TPR4 ATM with goldpoint switcher which really works well so you may want to try your 821 at some point or even trick them up to A standard.

Yes very happy as I’m sure you are going to be.

BTW I have mini cap6 on the front end and Hacker cap boards for the back which seem to work well.

No soft start.

Which as you say with mono blocks may not be needed unless you are using large VA transformers.

In everyday use they run silently.

Looking forward to your thoughts on the end product.

Good work.
 
Funnily enough I was talking to LesW at the NEBO2 and I have asked for a set of 821A boards as I am looking for a little more gain on my amp for my phono stage
I have the standard boards so I will try them when I get time

No progress today as the mains cable to our house burned out during the night so I've had no power all day and my drive way has been dug up :mad:,
Power just back on and hour ago
Alan
 
Funnily enough I was talking to LesW at the NEBO2 and I have asked for a set of 821A boards as I am looking for a little more gain on my amp for my phono stage
I have the standard boards so I will try them when I get time

No progress today as the mains cable to our house burned out during the night so I've had no power all day and my drive way has been dug up :mad:,
Power just back on and hour ago
Alan

Good move on the gain front which should give your Paradise a little help.

Power cuts yes we get them quite often here mostly trees breaking the power lines.

Your boards are looking good.
 
Actually my Paradise phono stage blew the socks off most people at the NEBO 4 with its wide sound stage and natural quality compared to a well regarded Valve fire bottle phono stage so it aint half bad

alan
 


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