DIY fence Q's.

[Pravda]

I did a favour for a couple in the village once,who didnt want to see the concrete posts that had been newly erected. So I clad the posts in rough sawn 6x1 boards. I ripped them down to 3in wide and it looked a treat. You wouldn't know the posts were there(it wasn't my idea, I just followed the ladies instructions)

 

[roman]

Right, that's what I was thinking in my above post. So why is this not just common practice? Seems really weird to me that it isn't.

I've always painted the bottom section up to about 1 foot above ground level with bitumen paint.

I'll never really know how much difference it makes but I've always got at least 15 years out of any I've prepared. I'm looking at some now that are beginning to rot after 18 years which is acceptable to me.

 

[James]

If the posts are treated with wood preservative and the in-ground section is fully encapsulated in concrete, I can't understand why the post would rot underground. Even if the ground is constantly damp, the concrete won't be and neither should the post. Rot mostly occur in the above-ground section, in my experience.

 

[Pravda]

If the posts are treated with wood preservative and the in-ground section is fully encapsulated in concrete, I can't understand why the post would rot underground. Even if the ground is constantly damp, the concrete won't be and neither should the post. Rot mostly occur in the above-ground section, in my experience.

Concrete isn't waterproof though, it has fissures that let water in. The secret is the parging, and sealing where the concrete meets the wood. The parking should slope upwards to allow the water to run off, then mastic the joint as the wood shrinks(and expands)

 

[The Captain]

fences?
Huh

I buy pressure treated posts and soak the bottom 18" over night in a spirit based preservative, If yuour local farmer loves you, ask if he happens to have any creosote, illegal but damn its good.
Once posts are soaked and dry, (two days later) set 18" down into concrete.
Consider the wind. Strong winds and a solid fence don't like each other. If your privacy can take it, leave a 2 or 3" gap between the upright panels. If you need it solid you need to add 45 degree braces for every other upright. Think equilateral triangle when they are in. 3 ft up? 3 foot behind.
Treat the posts, cross pieces and panels with spirit based preservative and re-do them every three years, That lot should buy you 25 years of life.

Again thanks for replies- all gone through. Darth Vadar having his own beach! Well I never.

Hi Rockmeister,

I can get creosote in 5l containers in town, west wales so not illegal out here!. So I might do this.

Thankfully the fence line, will follow parralel to the wind direction, so lucky here.. but what I can do easily once up, is brace the top of 2 of the posts, to the wall of my extension, only 4ft away ish. That box ticked then. Good suggestion.

Can I ask chaps, if I'm burying say 22" into my concrete, will 1x (20kg) bag of postcrete per post suffice ok?

I've used postcrete before, only once, & although idea seems simple as feck in principle, panic ensued as once my (6x6 gate) post sitting on it's gravel/ bricky bed in it's hole.. I poured in the water, went for my postcrete bag, & 1/2 the water had dissapeared! Drained away somehow. A friend stopped by by chance & helped quell my panic, but cannae recall what we did.

Thanks, Capt

 

[roman]

Again thanks for replies- all gone through. Darth Vadar having his own beach! Well I never.

Hi Rockmeister,

I can get creosote in 5l containers in town, west wales so not illegal out here!. So I might do this.

Thankfully the fence line, will follow parralel to the wind direction, so lucky here.. but what I can do easily once up, is brace the top of 2 of the posts, to the wall of my extension, only 4ft away ish. That box ticked then. Good suggestion.

Can I ask chaps, if I'm burying say 22" into my concrete, will 1x (20kg) bag of postcrete per post suffice ok?

I've used postcrete before, only once, & although idea seems simple as feck in principle, panic ensued as once my (6x6 gate) post sitting on it's gravel/ bricky bed in it's hole.. I poured in the water, went for my postcrete bag, & 1/2 the water had dissapeared! Drained away somehow. A friend stopped by by chance & helped quell my panic, but cannae recall what we did.

Thanks, Capt

Depends on the overall volume of the hole. I've often used two bags per hole but although you should seek to stay as close as poss to instructions it doesn't have to be that exact.

On a few occasions I've found myself chucking in bits of hardcore, stoned, even broken glass to hurriedly make up bulk it up. It takes a surprising amount to make a difference.

For peace of mind maybe have your helper on hand and just aim to set the one post at first, working with sufficient materials for more,and just keep going until you've done one satisfactorily.

Then you'll know better know the quantities involved and your method of working. You do need to work swiftly but it's hard to get it very wrong. I like to prop up the post to keep it upright when pouring in the mixture. Make sure it's stable.

You could set the post within a bigger section of pipe or put in some plastic or a thinner layer of concrete to slow down the water.

 

[Ponty]

When I used to do a lot of stock fencing, the posts I left to soak in a barrel of old engine oil before using lasted longer than ‘pre treated’ posts.

 

[sq225917]

Creosote, dip posts in a bucket, overnight, then let them dry, a couple of days, then tar the bottoms. Lasts forever.

 

[Eoin]

Concrete spurs make life a lot easier.

 

[The Captain]

Concrete spurs make life a lot easier.

Hey Eoin,

I'll look into this, as I've only got 3 posts to do. Can't quite figure how they work at the mo.

Bank hol mulling over the thread, job next week.

@roman aha that rings a bell now, bunging in xyz.. will buy another bag, so 1-1/2 per hole, & used xyz chunks too.

Thanks y'all, Capt