Strictly Stereo
Trade: Strictly Stereo
Nice work
Building a HackerNAP
- Thread starter hacker
- Start date
keithsnaim
Gone Fishing
Tony !. With so many Hacker builds about to begin, can this thread go in the Reference section please.
Regards Keith
Regards Keith
keithsnaim
Gone Fishing
Thanks for the pointer Tony.
keithsnaim
Gone Fishing
I have asked TonyL if it can be made sticky or put in the reference section.
Best Keith
Best Keith
Hi all,
I've posted updated an BOM (v1.7).
Changes
C2: Changed 47uF feedback cap to 68uF.
C10, C12: Now omit these parts completely.
C5, C6, C7, C8, C9, C11: Changed from 100uF electrolytic to 2u2 film
I've also added 2 new workbooks to the spreadsheet, one for front-end PSU and one for the output stage PSU. You'll find links to Qspeed diodes, kendeil caps, etc.
Links
Build manual PDF: http://hackernap.com/docs/Build Manual v1.2.pdf
BOM v1.7 PDF: http://hackernap.com/docs/HackerNAP BOM.pdf
BOM v1.7 Excel: http://hackernap.com/docs/HackerNAP BOM.xls
All HackerNAP/HackerCAP related files: https://www.box.com/s/jnasoijb2gg7mopasbuo
Cheers,
Carl
I've posted updated an BOM (v1.7).
Changes
C2: Changed 47uF feedback cap to 68uF.
C10, C12: Now omit these parts completely.
C5, C6, C7, C8, C9, C11: Changed from 100uF electrolytic to 2u2 film
I've also added 2 new workbooks to the spreadsheet, one for front-end PSU and one for the output stage PSU. You'll find links to Qspeed diodes, kendeil caps, etc.
Links
Build manual PDF: http://hackernap.com/docs/Build Manual v1.2.pdf
BOM v1.7 PDF: http://hackernap.com/docs/HackerNAP BOM.pdf
BOM v1.7 Excel: http://hackernap.com/docs/HackerNAP BOM.xls
All HackerNAP/HackerCAP related files: https://www.box.com/s/jnasoijb2gg7mopasbuo
Cheers,
Carl
Thanks Martin.
Folks, I've updated the build manual and connection diagram. Nothing major, just reflected a preference for 42-0-42 front-end and added some more pictures.
https://www.box.com/s/jnasoijb2gg7mopasbuo
Folks, I've updated the build manual and connection diagram. Nothing major, just reflected a preference for 42-0-42 front-end and added some more pictures.
https://www.box.com/s/jnasoijb2gg7mopasbuo
Jo Sharp
Pulls on doors marked push
Further updated advice from Hacker (in this thread http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=151178):
So yes, the single best thing you can do at present is ditch the film feedback cap (heresy!!) for a wet tant.
Feedback cap (C2)
Tantalum, axial, wet, at least 68uF. Voltage not important, there's only a couple of mV across it. Do this if you do anything, it's the best upgrade I've made to my amps. In fact I'd go as far as saying: do not put film feedback caps into a HackerNAP. Period!
C13 and C14 - Output transistor decoupling caps
If you can find them and make them fit (definitely not a drop-in mod!), remove the 470uF output decoupling caps (C13/C14) and replace them with 22uF - 68uF polyester film caps rated for 63V+. The difference this makes to bass clarity is very worthwhile. I used obsolete/unobtanium 47uF/63V Evox Rifa MMK for this.
John Luckins' VBE mod
I'm too lazy to link to it, but this is a great mod that vastly improves (reduces) the output impedance of the front-end VBE filter, which in turn improves bass response.
HackerCAP - Output stage
Ditch the inductors and use chunky wire links instead. This keeps the output imepedance as low as possible. Only do this to the output stage HackerCAPs, not the front-end ones; those should remain heavily filtered with CRCRC.
C25 - CCS filtering cap
There's approximately 25V across this cap, which opens up the possibilities for higher capacitance. I moved to a 10uF/50V Wima MKS2, which just drops in.
Getting silly - ****y caps
The front-end power rails benefit from the very best decoupling caps you can find/afford. Currently I use brass cased 1uF polystyrene NOS Russian caps at C19 and C11. These are rarer than rocking horse shit but a bargain if you can find them on eBay, etc.
Also worth doing is the input cap. I use the obsolete/unavailble Evox Rifa SMR polyphenylsulphide caps. You could usefully use a polypropylene type here, although good luck getting it to fit on the PCB.
This list is based on order of preference, first to last. Every suggestion except the ****y caps is something I would consider a "must do" mod. The fancy caps are really just like the salt and pepper - flavour according to taste. The rest of the changes make a fundamental difference that shouldn't be missed.
There are more changes in the works. For example, John Luckins has been working on a hot-rodded SuperReg arrangement for the front-end supplies. I fully expect this to be another "must do" mod.
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2227677&postcount=20
So yes, the single best thing you can do at present is ditch the film feedback cap (heresy!!) for a wet tant.
Feedback cap (C2)
Tantalum, axial, wet, at least 68uF. Voltage not important, there's only a couple of mV across it. Do this if you do anything, it's the best upgrade I've made to my amps. In fact I'd go as far as saying: do not put film feedback caps into a HackerNAP. Period!
C13 and C14 - Output transistor decoupling caps
If you can find them and make them fit (definitely not a drop-in mod!), remove the 470uF output decoupling caps (C13/C14) and replace them with 22uF - 68uF polyester film caps rated for 63V+. The difference this makes to bass clarity is very worthwhile. I used obsolete/unobtanium 47uF/63V Evox Rifa MMK for this.
John Luckins' VBE mod
I'm too lazy to link to it, but this is a great mod that vastly improves (reduces) the output impedance of the front-end VBE filter, which in turn improves bass response.
HackerCAP - Output stage
Ditch the inductors and use chunky wire links instead. This keeps the output imepedance as low as possible. Only do this to the output stage HackerCAPs, not the front-end ones; those should remain heavily filtered with CRCRC.
C25 - CCS filtering cap
There's approximately 25V across this cap, which opens up the possibilities for higher capacitance. I moved to a 10uF/50V Wima MKS2, which just drops in.
Getting silly - ****y caps
The front-end power rails benefit from the very best decoupling caps you can find/afford. Currently I use brass cased 1uF polystyrene NOS Russian caps at C19 and C11. These are rarer than rocking horse shit but a bargain if you can find them on eBay, etc.
Also worth doing is the input cap. I use the obsolete/unavailble Evox Rifa SMR polyphenylsulphide caps. You could usefully use a polypropylene type here, although good luck getting it to fit on the PCB.
This list is based on order of preference, first to last. Every suggestion except the ****y caps is something I would consider a "must do" mod. The fancy caps are really just like the salt and pepper - flavour according to taste. The rest of the changes make a fundamental difference that shouldn't be missed.
There are more changes in the works. For example, John Luckins has been working on a hot-rodded SuperReg arrangement for the front-end supplies. I fully expect this to be another "must do" mod.
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2227677&postcount=20
Latest BOM (v1.8): http://hackernap.com/docs/HackerNAP BOM v1.8.xls
Latest build manual (v1.4): http://hackernap.com/docs/Build Manual v1.4.pdf
The BOM incorporates latest cap changes. The manual fixes the wiring diagram that was cut off - you now get the whole thing.
Latest build manual (v1.4): http://hackernap.com/docs/Build Manual v1.4.pdf
The BOM incorporates latest cap changes. The manual fixes the wiring diagram that was cut off - you now get the whole thing.
Jo Sharp
Pulls on doors marked push
Whilst looking for useful information to add to the reference room thread, I noticed the posts about the correct orientation of the ZTX753 transistor.
This diagram from the datasheet shows that the collector is on the left side when viewing with the curved/flat towards you:
[/URL][/IMG]
from the hackernap schematic:
[/URL][/IMG]
we can see that the emitter of the 753 connects to the power rail and top end of R28; the collector to C4. From this it is possible to establish the correct orientation, which is that the large flat side of the 753 matches the flat side of the symbol on the PCB.
This diagram from the datasheet shows that the collector is on the left side when viewing with the curved/flat towards you:
from the hackernap schematic:
we can see that the emitter of the 753 connects to the power rail and top end of R28; the collector to C4. From this it is possible to establish the correct orientation, which is that the large flat side of the 753 matches the flat side of the symbol on the PCB.
Jo Sharp
Pulls on doors marked push
here is a link to John.Luckins thread about a Super-reg for the hackernap:
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=144101&highlight=hackercap
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=144101&highlight=hackercap