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Broken Voice coil.Causes

MarkM

Member
I have a pair of Ruark Talisman 2's,owned for about 4 years,powered by a Pioneer A656 mk2 Reference amp which never goes above number 10 on a clockface volume wise(thats 32 on the volume knob). Anyway I love the sound from the speakers but have a failed voice coil on one of the Bass/Mid drivers (I always thought that speaker sounded slightly off/lacking from buying them but figured it was the room as its not a great shape and a tad cluttered)Anyway its now failed. I can't get replacements as no longer manufactured so going to try some new Vifa units recommended by Wilmslow Audio,I'm waiting on delivery.
Now these speakers always seemed to need some fairly decent input/volume to get going and fill out although they on paper dont read as hard to drive.
My question is in anyway can a failure of some sort in the crossover lead to the speakers needing extra input to drive and or lead to a broken voice coil? I don't want to put in a new driver and damage that if the problem causing damage is in the crossover,that would be dumb. I have read many times that people replace the capacitors or upgrade them.Can a failure in a capacitor lead to a broken voice coil or is it more likely that the driver was just old n worn out ?

Any help gratefully received.

Mark
 
Nope, old drivers, work hardened coil lead outs, it happens, tinsel lead outs prevent this.
 
It's impossible to relate vol control position to power output... it just doesn't work that way. "Power Handling" of speakers is to be taken with a pinch of salt as well as its an approximate figure based on sharing the signal between drivers with amp never clipping and no signal that would cause mechanical overload of the bass driver.
 
Nope, old drivers, work hardened coil lead outs, it happens, tinsel lead outs prevent this.
Thanks for the advice.Tinsel lead outs? What is this?Not a term I'm familiar with? Could you explain for me.I really like the sound of the speakers n want to keep them and in best shape I can.
 
It's impossible to relate vol control position to power output... it just doesn't work that way. "Power Handling" of speakers is to be taken with a pinch of salt as well as its an approximate figure based on sharing the signal between drivers with amp never clipping and no signal that would cause mechanical overload of the bass driver.
So if I understand you maybe at 1/4 volume that has overloaded the speaker and damaged it ,is that right?
 
Not sure which VIFA drivers you've bought, but I've got a pair of CA17RCY2 that I'm not using. Currently sat in a pair of speakers that are sat here doing nothing. Bought them to replace CA17CRY/P drivers. Rang seas and they told me they'd be near as damn it identical.
 
Not sure which VIFA drivers you've bought, but I've got a pair of CA17RCY2 that I'm not using. Currently sat in a pair of speakers that are sat here doing nothing. Bought them to replace CA17CRY/P drivers. Rang seas and they told me they'd be near as damn it identical.
CA17RCY2 ? I have no idea what the Ca or RCY means Im guessin the 2 on the end is a remake? Are you offering them for sale?
 
Not sure which VIFA drivers you've bought, but I've got a pair of CA17RCY2 that I'm not using. Currently sat in a pair of speakers that are sat here doing nothing. Bought them to replace CA17CRY/P drivers. Rang seas and they told me they'd be near as damn it identical.
I was told
Vifa P17WJ-00-08 were as close as I could get new,awaiting delivery but returnable....
 
Probably the closest you can get new, but if you compare the datasheets (both available online) I think there's enough difference in the parameters for them to sound different without crossover tinkering. The Vifas are 3db less sensitive for a start.

Yes, I'd be happy to sell mine, might as well get some use as they're just sat in my office. I bought them new old stock and they've only had light use so should be pretty good. May have slightly different mounting holes as the "2" driver has a newer metal frame (looks the same as the vifa, rather than the lipped original ca17rcy).
 
Probably the closest you can get new, but if you compare the datasheets (both available online) I think there's enough difference in the parameters for them to sound different without crossover tinkering. The Vifas are 3db less sensitive for a start.

Yes, I'd be happy to sell mine, might as well get some use as they're just sat in my office. I bought them new old stock and they've only had light use so should be pretty good. May have slightly different mounting holes as the "2" driver has a newer metal frame (looks the same as the vifa, rather than the lipped original ca17rcy).
I tried googling the "2's" only the ca17rcy original would come up. Spacing for those is the same as the vifs's ie equal. My concern is the sound,well my main concern,price is obviously a factor.Have you a link to the 2's?

Ok 3db less sensitive ,so my 88 is more sensitive than 91db ,less is more?
 
Actually, this is the CA17RC2, which is available from falcon:

https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/d...-units/seas-ca17rc-h0843-prestige-series.html

You can see the difference between the 2 and not 2 on that page if you open the datasheet - the 2 as pictured has a different metal frame - that;s what mine look like.

Those falcon ones are actually closer to the vifa - same sensitivity, but sadly the RC variant is different to the RCY, so wouldn't be a drop in replacement.

From memory the "rcy" is the voice coil and magnet assembly, "ca" the cone and 17 the diameter. Happy to be corrected on that by more knowledgeable folk.
 


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