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Systemdek IIX/Roksan Tabriz, should a noisy motor be a dealbreaker?

djftw

djftw

Heterodox Member
Howdy all! I have been looking at a Systemdek IIX with a Roksan Tabriz (and a technics cart I have never heard of and can't remember the name of!)

This is a 'scratching an itch' thing, as I have always wondered how both the Roksan arm and the Dunlop Dek stack up against my LP12 Ittok etc, especially as I now have my (non-Linn) LP12 set up jig I can see it being a lot of fun tinkering, pop the Roksan on the Sondek, Ittok on the Systemdek etc etc.

Intention is once I have had some fun I will move it on here as a ready to go deck for a newbie, but who knows, I may fall in love and decide I need a turntable in the study!

Have given it a good look over, is the later rectangular arm board type, looks to be in generally very good nick beyond needing the suspension adjusting, a good clean and polish. Arm feels spot on. Bearing is low on oil and needs a good clean, but still has some and looks/feels to be undamaged. No chips in the platter, even the belt looks good! However, motor is noisey, even unloaded - how much of an issue is this? Are we talking drop of oil, new motor?

And anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks in advance!
 
Not knocking exactly, more whirring, I might have said a very gentle grinding noise, but with a distinct rhythem to it...
 
If yours has the rectangular armboard it is probably the 900 version. I used one from 1990 to 2007. Mine needed a new motor in 1995 due to a wonky/loose pulley IIRC, and it cost about £60 fitted. I don’t think it’s an especially exotic/bespoke part (an Airpax?)
 
Farnell are taking the piss at £77.50 for the Premotec 9904 111 31813, however, they still list the Airpax branded 9904-111-31104 at £34.40 which may be exactly what is in your IIX (could be labelled Premotec, Airpax, Philips Airpax, or simply Philips). The spec is 250RPM @ 50Hz with 110VAC in. Don't let the Volts AC in concern you as there is an existing 6.8KOhm resistor in series which drops the 220VAC down. BTW, you should have a look at said resistor to ensure that it isn't looking cooked.

What you want to be careful with is spindle diameter (3mm) and length (depends, but you can measure your existing motor spindle from top of mounting flange to end of spindle).

Also, take heed that when fitting the pulley to the new motor it is imperative that you support the bottom end of the spindle whilst press fitting, else you exceed the maximum axial load (IOW, break it).
 
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I should add that you could first try fitting a thrust bearing to the bottom of the existing motor. These are intended to keep the motor spindle 'floating' up off the top end of the bottom sintered bronze bearing sleeve. As illustration, if you take off the turntable bottom board and apply a bit of finger pressure to the exposed bottom of the motor spindle, you will detect vertical play. If, for every upward press, you counter with a downward force on the pulley you can make the motor spindle tap end to end. You could possibly get a thrust bearing from a long standing Linn dealer; as part of the Lingo PS upgrade involves removing the factory fitted thrust bearing. Or, you could just DIY with a small plastic cap and Nylon, Teflon, or Delrin shim. I've used double sided foam core tape as 'spring' between inside of cap and plastic shim to good effect.

If you try the above, you may as well do a good motor bearing flush and re-oil (one drop of Singer oil top and bottom will do).

P.S. What set-up jig do you have?
 
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